ART6113WW (P1143688NWW) Amana Range - Instructions

The repair was simple, two screws and plug in and it was done.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Take top cover off take gear box cover off. check all gears for wear and clean all of above. Be sure you identify all parts needed before you order plus assembly grease!

The repair was very easy. It took me less than ten minutes. There were only five screws including two to hold heat element that I have to unscrew and transferred the old clip the screw onto new heat element.

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.

Unscrewed 2 screws holding the bracket on the back of the stove and disconnected the wires from the two clips. Removed back element, connected new elements & replaced screws to back inside wall of oven. Works like brand new!!

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

I read instructions and hints online. Then, I pulled the range out from between the cabinets and unplugged it (carefully). I used a small Philips head screwdriver to remove the 10 metal screws holding the large metal sheet on the back of the oven. Then I removed the 4 screws holding on the metal sheet on the upper level of the back of the range since it had to be removed to move back the big sheet metal away from the back. The large metal sheet has the power cord threaded through it on the bottom and I left that in place. I then removed the oven door by lifting it up off the hinges after I removed the screw on each side that held the door on the hinges. The door is quite heavy for a girl. I unscrewed the plate at the back of the broiler element, unhooked it from the hangers, and carefully pulled the connectors apart from the oven wiring and the dead broiler element. (Being completely unfamiliar with this kind of connector it took me some time to figure out they slid apart.) Following advice online I had used electrical tape to tape down the wires so they wouldn't slip backwards out of the oven. The new broiler element connectors slid smoothly and easily into the oven wires. I removed the electrical tape I had used as temporary holders, hung the element on the previous wire slings and removed the new wire slings for a backup. I screwed back the plate on the new element into the back of the oven wall. I used the part number orientation on the element to make certain I had it right side up. If I have to do this again it will be easy and take very little time. My biggest problem was getting the oven door back on because it was heavy for me and I was too short to be able to see what I was doing as I repeatedly tried to get the oven door and hinges aligned. Eventually the door was back on and screwed down. Everything that had been unscrewed was put back in place and screwed down tightly. The oven and broiler are working perfectly.

I had no trouble replacing the Broiler heating element, total time 30 minutes. Just had to pull the range out to unplug it and remove the back sheild of the range, then remove the two push on electrical connections. Then removed one screw holding the element to the inside of the oven, replaced with the new element, attached the connections, but the back sheild back on and it was done.

by myself

1. waited unsuccessfully for heat (one hour) 2. realized the bottom element wasn't working (one minute) 3. found part on-line from pictures (five minutes) 4. ordered part (one minute) 5. received part (36 hours) 6. installed part (five minutes) 7. "THAT'S how you fix the oven" look to husband (1-2 years)

Description of the element indicated that it would work for the oven burner. However, it obviously was meant for the broiler element. I had to remove the thin metal piece with the attachment holes in it (the holes didn't match the holes in the back of the oven). To install I had to drill two holes in the remaining attachment flange to match the holes on the back of the oven. Then I made three metal supports out of sheet metal to hold the element up approximately 1 1/2" off of the bottom of the oven. Just thankful to find one that I could make work. Oven works fine now. LF