ACR4503SFW7 Amana Range - Instructions

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

since I only had one of two screws, i installed with just the one. it would not work at all using a slightly longer screw, which is very odd.

due to the cooktop age, part was not an exact duplicate. I had to drill new holes in the stainless steel for mounting and ground wire. I used a lot of kitchen matches to heat the shrink tubes over the twist connectors. I should have gotten a heat gun or torch.

turn the light on in the oven go to the breaker box and shut off power to the oven when light is out is good indicator remove two screws in back of oven that secure element to back then remove two screws on top inside the oven to almost finish removal. phillips head screwdriver and needle nose pliers and two small spring loaded clamps are all you will need to accomplish thismove the upper element side to side until the connectors are exposed in the back of the stove pull the two wires out about 4 inches should be enough place the spring loaded clamps on each wire so as to not allow them to slip back in the stove body. take the needle nose and while holding the clamp remove the connector from each wire once this is done place the new element in the stove and reconnect the clips on the end off the element move the wires and connectors back into the openings on the stove and replace the two screws replace the two upper screws check all screws for tightness go to the breaker box and turn on the power takes about thirty minutes

My first approach was to try to find some help on the internet - Y-Tube or whatever. When I could not find anything, I was on my own. My first thought was that the best and easiest access to the switch was to somehow remove the top section of the range which held the switch. I was trying to avoid having to pull the range from the wall and cabinets. But not finding any way to do that, I then pulled the range from the wall, and removed the back panel (8 screws), which gave me easy access. Once that was done, the replacement went smoothly and quickly. So if replacing any switches on this range, FIRST pull it from the wall and THEN remove the back panel, and the rest is a piece of cake!

We took the door off and took it and the side panels to the local dealer and he put them on for us - for anyone needing to replace the side panels on the over, be aware they slide under the glass front -not over it like we tried to do. We thought, though, that we were going to have a buy a new stove but for a little over $70. 00 We got the parts, had them installed and saved over $800 on a new stove - well worth the effort.

Unplug power. Remove panel on the back. Unplug heater.From front remove 3 screws and remove heater. Installed new heater. On the back restored connections - squized the lugs to have better connection. Put panel back. Plug the power and see if the coil get red. It looked good. Used oven few times it works fine. Difficoult part is to clean oven all around from accumulated grease. First repair for this stove, most of the time spend on figuring out what to open, no instructions.

Contrary to instructions(go thru front of oven) I had to pull out the range, remove two (2) screws from back chassis. At this point you pull out the connector, snap in new, reverse proceedure. Very simple. Hardest part is cleaning up debris generated by moving range.

Cut, splice and heat shrink.

Remove heating element coils. & old drip pans. Install the new drip pans and reinsert the heating elements and insure all elements were level. For aesthetic reasons I replaced all the drip pans - 2 x 8" & 2 x 6".

Removed back of stove, 8 screws, removed original latch assembly and installed new assembly. One thing that can cause you difficulty is that the rod that connects the assembly to the front latch on the door can disconnect and has to be reconnected.[Problem]

The detection of the part and the replacement of the upper spray arm was quite easy, because of its unique shape and function, and also because it was easy to screw in place. I saved the web order page in case this part tends to deteriorate frequently, even though it is the first time it showed this problem since we purchased this appliance.

i personally did not do the repair..one of my neighbors did it and he said it was super easy..he pulled stove out from wall, unplugged it from socket, removed defective part, shortened clip that knob attaches to, installed new part with no problems whatsoever...plugged stove back in, pushed it back in place...burner now works fine! i was super impressed with the delivery of this part...ordered it on a Monday nite, it was mailed out the next day (Tuesday), and i received it Wednesday around noontime.. :)

Took appro 8 screws out of back panel, 2 screws holding switch, and pulled out switch, unhooked wires and reinstalled wires on new switch. Had to snap off stem with needle nose pliers which is simple and put everything back in place in reverse order!

The malfunction was narrowed down to the oven door motor lock, located at the upper left back of the unit. Removed two panels from the back of the unit, 8 screws. Then the motor, 2 screws, 4 wire connectors. Reversed the procedure for the installation, and solved the problem. About 30=35 minutes for the job. If your handy at all, it should not be a problem.