ARR3100NL (P1143494N L) Amana Range - Instructions

This repair took less than 5 minutes, literally! Two screws released the element, then unplugged it from two connectors. Then plugged in the new unit and screwed it into place. Cheap and easy!

it was relay easy when you get the right pats .so
Thanks for .
PART Select.
Best regard .
Walid

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

While trying to clean the oven, I decided to remove the lower heating element to make it easier. After removing the 2 screws on the bracket that holds the heating element in place, I pulled the heating element out only to short it out on the back of the oven and wreck the element. Luckly I was not injured or shocked, so if you need to do this, I recommend reading the owner's manual on how to property ground out the circuit first.

Anyways, to replace it, I just removed the lower panel on the back of the oven (roughly 10 screws). Installed the new element on the inside of the oven and screwed it into place. Then, connected the wires to the element from the back of the oven. Replaced the panel and turned the power back on.

In all, it took probably 15-20 minutes to fix and only cost me $37. I know that a minimum repair cost for this from Sears would have been $150, so definitely worth my time.

I took a couple of screws out that hold the bottom
element in place replaced the old one with the new one and fired it up. Worked like a charm and maybe this old stove will live on to make more Roast beef dinners.
If it been any easier my 10 year old grandson could have done it.

lifted the cover, unscrewed the ceramic wire fastners, put the new part in, and voila, job done and working perfectly

I ordered the new part, which arrived in just 2 days. I did not pull the oven away from the wall, I merely turned off the electric, unscrewed the bad element, pulled it out enough to see the ends, and then I removed the existing wires using needle nose pliers. I put the wires on the new element, inserted it back into the oven wall, and screwed it tight. I turned the electric back on, and checked it out. Worked like a charm! Only 40 bucks (including shipping), five minutes of my time, and I avoided an expensive service call. :-)

I had bought the 1st set of plug-in blocks at lowes, They were the only type they had the univeral ones! They did not hold the elements plug tight enough and half the time they would have to be punshed in more then they would snap and sizzle- I ordere the newer style and they have done great they are better made and heavier metal parts- they elements fit in snuggly and do not sizzle or nor do I have to push the element in. This stove is 35 years old and I have replaced most everything on it. But it's still cooking...

The directions were very clear. I removed the heating element, detached the plug-in block by unscrewing the screw, then cut the wires about 3 inches from the block. I put the shrink-wrap collars around the wires leading to the new block, then attached the wires to the cut ends of the wires leading to the back of the stove, using the connectors provided in the kit. I couldn't get the collars to shrink as much as shown in the picture. I attached the new block to the stove top using the screw, plugged in the heating element, and it worked!
So the instructions were good, and the heating element is now working. The only problem was the heat shrink collars that go around the connectors: I couldn't get them to shrink much, but that doesn't seem to matter.

First I lifted the cooktop out of the countertop & removed the screws so I could access under the burners.Then I cut the wires for the old plug-in block & then stripped the wires.Next I connected the new wires with the wire nuts & then used a lighter to shrink wrap the wire nuts.Then I screwed in the new block & re-installed the screws for the cooktop.I put in the new burner & it worked just like new.

First I removed the one screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires.

Cut power. Removed four attaching screws and raised stove top. Cut two wires of existing burner plug. Used existing plug to select correct plug configuration from parts in kit. Attached new plug and wires to wiring harness using connectors and heat-shrink tubing supplied with kit. Used hair dryer to shrink tubing on connectors. Closed up stove. Restored power. Burner now functional.

First, I turned off the power to the house at the breaker box. Then I removed the broken heating element through the front oven door. I hoped this would work as it seemed from other reviews that some people pulled the oven out removed the back panel in order to access the element. I unscrewed the plate and then gently pulled the element out. I had a little trouble "unplugging" the element. When I tried pulling, it seemed they were stuck tight. Turns out you have to sort of jiggle the connectors and then they easily pull apart. Had I figured this out initially, the repair would have been under 15 minutes. Attaching the new element to the connectors, rethreading the wiring back into the holes, and then rescrewing on the back plate too the oven wall took just minutes. Easy peasy. So glad I spent $40 to fix rather then $500+ for a new oven!

The Parts Select folks talked me through the procedure, starting with turning off the electricity to the stove. I'm glad they mentioned that, as I had to connect the element and would be touching the wires to do so. The only glitch I ran into was that the screws that attached the element to the oven were quite rusted, so it took a few more minutes to wrest them loose. I was very surprised at how easy this was, and am happy that the Parts Select staff knew how to instruct me. Many Thanks!!

shut off circut breaker. un pluged stove removed back panel disconected 2 wires on element. removed 1 screw that holds element in place pull out old element put in new reassemble