ARG7102L-P1143347NL Amana Range - Instructions

I have an older model gas oven which required that all screws had to be removed. With a screw gun the job would not haven taken long. Once the bottom pan was removed the oven ignitor took some finese to remove. This was only due to the short wires. Once pulled sufficiently to be able to disconnect the ignitior (although I was afraid I was going to pull the wires and separate them from the stove), it was very simple to unplug and plug in the new one (again, making sure to hold the plug so the wires would not retract back behind the wall which would have required the stove to be pulled out from the wall and the back disassembled).

The good news, it was a success and the oven works like new. Roughly $38.00 later, I am back cooking. The extra effort for the screws was offset by being able to complete this by myself and saving the cost of a repair man. Would do it again.

My repairman told me it was probably the ignitor (even though the old one sitll glowed), but after weeks of waiting for his back-ordered part, I decided to try it myself - found it on PartSelect and had it 3 days later. Turned off the power to the oven. Slid out the 2 racks, and the cover below the racks. Unscrewed 1 nut and removed the V shaped metal plate that distributes the heat. Under that removed 3 screws that hold the ignitor clip in place and got the igniter out of the clip. I couldn't get to the plug on the other end of the ignitor until I took out the oven drawer and removed 2 screws holding a metal cover in place below the oven. Reversed the whole process being careful with the end of the new ignitor (I read it was fragile). The oven now heats up in 5 minutes and maintains temperature again!

WEB research indicated that even though ignitor would glow, that it was likely faulty.
Turned off power at circuit breaker
Remove shelves and bottom plate from inside oven.
Unscrew deflector plate
Remove drawer under stove
Remove ignitor and unplug from connector
replace ignitor, plug in, reassemble stove.
Needed flashlight to see under stove.

Simple install - 6 -7 screws one nut. Once replaced oven worked good as new. Part shipped from PartSelect actually better than one installed by repairman 4 years ago - fit like an original part.

Thanks PartSelect.com

Installed new igniter - easy job. Remove burner deflector, remove screws holding igniter bracket, remove panels below oven (accessible via removal of drawer), disconnect igniter and remove. Remove igniter from bracket, slide new one into bracket and reverse the steps to install it. Unfortunately, it didn't work. Igniter not glowing. I checked continuity on the igniter and it showed 90ohms resistance, so seems to be OK. Put multimeter on range plug end, turned on oven and multimeter did show cycling voltage at the plug (although I'm not certain what it should read). Relay in the control board does 'click' when oven turned on, so it also seems to work. Think I may be down to the gas control safety valve for the oven, but it is no longer available. Anyone have any other ideas? Hate to buy another igniter and have it still not work. Thanks!!

Removed burners and top cover to access ignition module.
Remove and replace module and reassemble stove.

We lived with the problem by using a long-reach butane torch lighter for three years after an appliance repairman told us the problem would be very costly to repair. Finally, we found the likely suspect when we happened onto PartSelect's website- the spark ignition module. The cost was just over $81 plus shipping. We ordered on Wednesday, it arrived on Friday by FedEx, and I installed it on Saturday morning. All the parts were included, the instructions were clear and complete, and, best of all, our range now works as it should. We couldn't be happier. Thanks, PartSelect.

I removed the oven door by removing two screws, one above each hinge. With the door screws removed, position the door to the slightly open position and lift strength up to remove. Remove wire racks and the cover from the bottom of the oven. Remove the heat deflector which is held on with a single nut. Remove the screws that hold the cavity that houses the igniter and the burner. The igniter is held in place by a protective bracket that has to be reused. I slid the old igniter out of the protective bracket and then removed the cavity by allowing the burner and igniter to exit through an opening in the rear of the cavity. The drawer (broiler pan storage) had to be removed to remove the two screws to an access panel that allowed access to the igniter connector. After disconnecting the old igniter, I fished the new igniter connector through the back of the oven to connect it. I use masking tape to hold the access panel in place while reinserting and tightening the two screws. Replace the cavity that houses the igniter and burner. Slide the protective cover over the igniter. Realign and secure the burn and igniter assembly by reinserting and tightening the necessary screws. Reinserting and tighten the screws around the igniter/burner cavity. Replace the heat deflector by tightening the nut. Replace the cover that covers the bottom of the oven and the wire racks. Reinsert the drawer. Slide the door over the hinges and reinsert and tighten the two screws.

The repair was fairly simple. The hardest part was figuring out the best way to get access to the part. Basically just had to remove the cover at the bottom of the oven then remove the shield that was directing the heat that comes off of the burner. Once I had access to that, I could see the ignitor. To get access to the plug in section, I had to take out the bottom drawer for pots and pans, then remove the piece above that to get access to the place that the ignitor plugs into. Unfortunately the wires were too short, but so were the ones that were on the current ignitor so I used the extension from the existing ignitor and cut off the plug of the new one to attach the extension. Once that was done, just reinstalled the ignitor and we reversed the process. The new one works incredibly well. Instead of waiting several minutes for the oven to start heating up, it heats up instantly. What a relief...much cheaper than buying a brand new stove. This one works great now!! Thank you parts select!!

After a standard trouble shoot, and finding the control PCB has the correct line voltage and the unit failure has more than one function failure with-in the unit operation, I replaced the Control PCB.
Removal and install took about 10 min, and the unit works fine, all automation is working properly.
Lance

First I had to take the drawer completely out of the stove to reach the igniter. I then removed the screws that held the igniter in place and removed it. I had to slightly modify the replacement part by squeezing it together to make it fit into the same space. I put the replacement igniter in place and screwed it down; put the drawer back in the stove and turned on the over to see if it would light. Bingo, job done!

looked at and saw that ignitor was cracked,saw simple repair ahead. just needed the right part . Without part , select simple ,and easy selection, i might not have ever found the right part. as i said before finding the right part is 90 percent of the job and they made that an easy task .

of course if you want me to describe in detail, took out the pan saw the bad ignitor, removed 2 serews, disconnected 2 wire, the reassembled in the opposite direction. 30 minutes tops. I am sure this saved me at least 150 bucks for some "so called reparman" to do the same job, Most people do not realise that they have more education than most of these "repairmen". The only advantage these "repair people" have is acess to schematics and part numbers. Part select is a good start on putting this information in the hands of us average "idiots" as I am sure the repair folks call us when we pay 200 bucks for a 30 dollar job.

I had done this before, but a while back, so it took a little longer to disassemble and find the igniter. Once there, easy to troubleshoot with a meter. Reassembly was only a few minutes and part of that was finding a new nut, since I lost one. I had to remove the storage drawer, then remove a metal cover to get at the connections. I tested the power to the igniter and found it to be OK. I tested continuity and had some but very low. Pulled the diffuser and cover off burner to locate igniter. Ordered part,put it on and reassembled everything. Working fine.

Disconect power source; Remove oven racks, remove storage drawer under oven; remove floor of oven, remove flame deflector, remove three screws holding igniter cage and unplug faulty igniter. Reverse all steps for reassembly.

Remove the racks
remove one nut that holds the heat deflector
3 screws that hold the igniter
remove the drawer
remove 2 screws holding a heat shield in place.
unplug old igniter and reinstall