ZRT6510WWP1143475NWW Amana Range - Instructions

Received part after one working day and was installed
in five minutes.. Would recommend as a do it your self
project with the support of PartSelect.com

left side hinge was broken. I removed 2 screws to release the old hinge and replaced it with the new hinge.
Part select.com made it easy to pick out the part from the diagram supplied on the web site. After it was ordered it arrived 2 days later.

I took out ruined racks. Cleaned the oven, getting rid of all the melted plastic. Once oven was sparkling clean, I slid in the new racks I bought from here. (The easiest part).

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I'm very thankful to have found this site. My oven has been "out of order" for over 3 years. It's so nice to be able to use it again! =)

A Home Depot employee advised me on how to enter all my oven information found on the front of my oven on parts.com. I submitted parts information as stated, also very easy. My parts arrived 3 days later. I used a screwdriver & pliers, it took less than 15 minutes. Very simple and the entire process from order to installation went like clockwork. I would definitely order in the future. Thank you.

The lower element had burned out but in the process, it developed a short from line to neutral. Since the short was located about 3/4 of the total length from the one hot leg (L1) and the other hot leg (L2) was the relay controlled leg, there was a current path that allowed the element to heat even with L2 disconnected by the relay. Actually replacing the element was easy, just remove the back cover(s) and the element mounting screws (2) inside the oven cavity and the new unit slides into place. Reconnect the two wires to the new element and replace the back covers. Back in business and the cookies are coming out perfectly!

Removed the rocker switch using a regular screw driver to lift the edge. Unplugged the wires from old switch. Hooked wires to new switch. Clipped switch back into place.

Instructions with parts are minimal. Looked at exploded drawing and read other installation descriptions on site. From the read I knew it was easier than it looked. Opened oven door. Unscrewed screws about 1/3 of the way up on both sides on inside face of door; these are the only thing attaching the hinges to the door. (Save all the screws you remove - they make work better than the ones with the parts.) The door can now be pulled off the range. I pulled the broken part out of the right side with pliers. Remove the screws below and about 8" up from the hinge on each side. When this is done you can pull the hinge out from the slot from the front. Open the new hinges up and they will slip through these same openings and position them as the ones you removed were positioned. Replace the screws. On the parts I received the lower screw holes on the hinge were not tapped. The original screws worked a bit like self-tapping ones. If you lose any parts or need to get to the hinge from the back you can take out the drawer.

The front burner the large one was burnt out, I cook alot so I need it, I happen to see a appliance repair man next door. I describe problem and he said well figure about 250 - 300 hundred dollars. 80 For the aprt the rest labor and house call. Well I looked at the booklet and figured out what I had to do ,needless to say I owent to your website and you had the exact part I needed and saved me alot of money. I sugest to d. I. Yers try it and if it doesn't work then call the repairman. Thank you parts select. Glenn voight

Very easy fix. This is done through the oven door. Don't pull it out or do anything exotic. Turn the breaker off. Don't skip this Since you're dealing with 220v here. Shine a bright light into the back of the oven to identify the element attachment screws. Use a number 2 Phillips to remove the 2 screws holding the element in place. Pull the element straight out. This may require a bit of manipulation wiggling back an forth. Don't yank to hard. There was probably 6" of free wire. Next free the wires attached via spade terminals from the old element. Putt the new element in place and reattach the wires. Carefully push wires back thru the holes and secure with the screws. Reset the breaker and turn it on. Totally simple. My oven was 18 years old and the screws came right out. I expected difficulty but none encountered.

Removed old assembly, attached wires to new and inserted into space for same. Of course you must turn off the range circuit breaker. The part that took the most time was removing the old assembly. Once that was done, the rest took only a few minutes.

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Indicators showed broiler should be working so basically made a guess that the element was bad and replaced it. Turned off circuit breaker and removed mounting screw and unplugged terminal ends of the element and replaced with new one. Switched circuit breaker on and turned on broiler and my repair was a success.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).