ARG7800SS-P1143355NSS Amana Range - Instructions

First, I unplugged power to the stove. Next, I removed the grills, ceramic burner discs, gas knobs, and glass plate (under the knobs). Next, I removed the 2 screws exposed by the control knobs. Next, I removed the 2 screws holding each burner assembly to the cook top. I then unplugged the wires attached to each burner assembly and set the assemblies aside. Now I was able to remove the top. Once removed, it was very easy to locate and remove the bracket holding the old sparking module. Then it was just a matter of removing the wires from the old module and attaching them to the new module... attaching the new bracket to the stove and then re-assemble the cook top. Honestly, this was a very simple repair... and probably took me longer to describe the steps than actually execute.

I first thought the burner was bad but after some
testing realized that the Spark Ignition Module was
faulty. You have to remove the screws from the four
burners to remove them and the stove top. Then it
is a fairly easy job to replace the module. Just be
careful to reconnect the wires in the correct places
that you removed them from the old module.

Subject range is in a rental house and receives much use and abuse. The repair was necessary due to the door having 2, 1-2 inch cracks one on each side so the door bent outward. Obviously in the past when the oven door was completely in the open position much weight was placed on the door cracking the sides and bending the door. Consequently, when the oven was in use and the door was closed being that the door was bent outward heat escaped from the top of the door heating up the control panel. The control panel would get so hot that it could not be touched without burning the fingers. Replacing this range would cost approximately $2200, so we had to try to repair it. I went to the ParSelect website and ordered the part I needed.
Being that the oven door is heavy and large it took two people to disassemble and reassemble the door. We had quite
a wrestling match with the door (consider too, that we never do this type of job) but after about 3 hours our range was almost like new.
Disappointing that a replacement mylar cover for the control panel is no longer available at PartSelect. We would appreciate getting our hands on one as the existing mylar cover is cracked.
The oven has been successfully used since the repair and we have a good fit and the control panel is now only warm instead of blistering hot. FANTASTIC!
THANK YOU


Time will tell.

Sincerely

Craig and Judy Crouch

First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).

I removed all 4 burners 2 screws holding each,replaced the ignition module,wire for wire,reassembled after cleaning the stovetop.I,m my wife's hero.

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Philips is all that's needed. Remove the burners (2 screws each) lift off top of stove, replace the ignition module. put all back together and your done. Local parts store wanted $80+ for the module. PartSelect only $50 total cost and it hit my mailbox in TWO days! Thank you PartSelect.

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

Removed two screws per burner. Unhook wires. Putting back broke slide on connector and had to replace. That took longer than the whole job. I ordered the part before 3:00 pm and it was at my house tjhe next morning which was hard to believe. The instructions that come with part made no sense what so ever. Thanks for the quick service and I will be back.
Dave

remove grate - flip upside down - be sure holes are clean and dry - using toothpick, swab some RTV sealant into the holes and a bit on the pads ... insert pads till they seat - be sure to hold in place till all air is evacuated - wipe excess RTV with paper towel...DONE

I was surprised when I was able to find that the (10 year old) parts for one of the drawer slides of my stove were still available. However, I was disappointed that the small bolt that I ordered did not come with a nut. I was lucky to find one in a collection of nuts in my workshop, and so was able to fix the slide. However, I suggest that if you supply someone with a bolt, that you include the nut that is necessary to make it work.

It didn't. The grate pads (PN# PS389174) were too small for the grate (W10311216) and wouldn't work. (PN# recommended by Whirlpool parts department) The pads were smaller in diameter and shorter. Yes I could have glued them in, but because of the size the pads would be flat in no time. The only thing I could order from KitchenAid was the total grate. I ordered the pads late December, they were backordered. I got them the 1st week of February. I tried getting through to Whirlpool by calling to see if there was something I could reorder, but no luck, couldn't through. Am I unhappy? Oh some, but I handle it. Its not the first time I have been rode hard and put away wet.

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

Remove the cover over the burner, two screws at the rear, this exposes the burner tube cover, one nut at the center. Three screws will remove the holder for the igniter. I had to remove a sheet metal cover underneath the oven( pull the drawer out) to gain access to the plug for the igniter. A good tip on this is the same valve controls the broiler and the oven, if one works and the other doesn't, it's the igniter. If neither works the gas vale may be the problem.