ARG7600LL-P1143364NLL Amana Range - Instructions

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

Removed two screws per burner. Unhook wires. Putting back broke slide on connector and had to replace. That took longer than the whole job. I ordered the part before 3:00 pm and it was at my house tjhe next morning which was hard to believe. The instructions that come with part made no sense what so ever. Thanks for the quick service and I will be back.
Dave

i had to remove quite a lot of screws in the bottom "pan" of the over to get to the igniter wiring. once it was apart, it was easy to see how to disconnect and reconnect the new igniter. the trickiest part is to put the igniter into the metal sheeted housing before you try to thread the wiring through to the plug at the back of the stove. overall, this is an easy rip out and replace process.

Philips is all that's needed. Remove the burners (2 screws each) lift off top of stove, replace the ignition module. put all back together and your done. Local parts store wanted $80+ for the module. PartSelect only $50 total cost and it hit my mailbox in TWO days! Thank you PartSelect.

First I removed the two screw on the lower inside of the door that hold the door to the hinges. Then I opened the oven door at about a 15 degree angle, and carefully lifted the door out of the hinge brackets. Next I had to remove the side panels on the door . After getting those side pieces off, I realized that I had to go through all layers of the door to get to the inner glass, so I decided that the best way to keep track of all those screws, was to remove each screw with the Phillips head screw driver, and immediately scotch tape that screw right next to the hole it came from. That was the best idea I had, because there are many screws in that door! Removing the old glass, and replacing it with the new glass was the easiest part of the project, just be sure not to let pieces of the insulation get between the glass and the metal frame. Then I reversed my steps to put everything back together. It probably took a bit longer than someone else because I first taped each screw on the panels, and then had to remove the tape, but I just did not want to find a handful of screws after the door was back on, or worse, somehow lose one or two. I think the hardest part of this project was getting the door back on the hinges, because the door is heavy, and you have to line up the hinges with holes in door, and slide the door in evenly. Once the door is back on, re-insert the two screws, and your oven door is as good as new (and as clean as new).

I removed all 4 burners 2 screws holding each,replaced the ignition module,wire for wire,reassembled after cleaning the stovetop.I,m my wife's hero.

Symptoms were sign of bad ignitor based on Goggle searches. Removed screws holding burner and ignitor to range. Disconnected ignitor at green connector below oven with lower drawer removed. Then removed burner and old ignitor. Reinstalled burner and then new ignitor being sure burner was still seated on gas outlet. (Note-burner removal may not be necessary) Replaced two screws attaching ignitor to oven wall and two screws attaching burner to floor of oven. Oven works perfectly now.

I replaced the Oven Igniter. With a ohmn meter I checked the resistance on the Igniter and there was nothing there. I figured the module had to see some kind of resistance to turn the gas on. The Oven now works after replacing the Oven Igniter, but the Broiler still will not light. I will check the resistance on the Broiler Igniter and see what is going on there.
The Igniter can be checked from the back by removing the back cover panels. The two igniter wires come out through the back of the oven and have heat resistant covering on them. They run into a plastic plug and can be accessed at this point to check the resistance.
To remove the Oven Igniter, remove the oven racks, the bottom panels which are held on by screws. The Oven Igniter is attached to the gas rail which is attached to the underside of 2nd panel by two wing nuts.

The earlier reviews said very easy and 15 minutes for beginners. They were right on, except I could not get the old screw out no matter what I tried. I eventually had to drill it out and put in a self tapping new screw. This was a first for me. Then it took 15 minutes or less and works fine again. Hopefully next time someone will tell me how to get that old screw out faster.

No problem removing the burners. Removing the old initors was a different story. The tiny screws that hold the ignitor in place were baked in and could not be removed with a screw driver. I drilled them and tried to use an easy out to no avail. The screws are very short so I had to use care not to drill thru the burner. Both screw heads did snap off. I resorted to a hi temp epoxy to secure the ignitor flanges to the burner and now the all burners ignite as designed.

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

Removed the top, 4 screws and pulled the contact wires off. Replaced the module and connected the contacts. Put back the screws and the top. When the stove was new it did not operate properly and we had a technician out, but naturally it worked for him. For the past 14 years intermittent operation has been agravating me. With the new module the burners have never worked so well.

Replacing the igniter itself was a simple matter a few screws holding its housing and then plugging the new one into the connector. Difficulty came trying to figure out how to access the igniter. Disassembling the floor of the oven was a dead end involving many screws. Pulling the unit out from the wall was a big job and another failure. The problem was solved with the removal of the drawer. Underneath, in the rear was a sheet metal plate held by 2 screws. Behind that hung the igniter connection. Voila! Job done.

First I removed the knobs on the range, then the front cover and then removed the two screws that hold each burner in place. I removed the top and removed the Module and started replacing the burners and front ocver and knobs. The Module worked GREAT. Thanks for your fast service in getting me the parts.

1. Removed drawer
2.Removed back panel (2 screws).
3. Disconnected power line from old igniter
4. Removed 3 screws holding old igniter.
5. Replaced with new igniter.
Works like new.