ZRT6510WWP1143825NWW Amana Range - Instructions

I ordered the new part, which arrived in just 2 days. I did not pull the oven away from the wall, I merely turned off the electric, unscrewed the bad element, pulled it out enough to see the ends, and then I removed the existing wires using needle nose pliers. I put the wires on the new element, inserted it back into the oven wall, and screwed it tight. I turned the electric back on, and checked it out. Worked like a charm! Only 40 bucks (including shipping), five minutes of my time, and I avoided an expensive service call. :-)

Turned off 230 volt breaker to range,connected old wires to new element ,put back into place replaced the two mounting screws. Turned breaker back on and tested range.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

Two screws in the oven removed the old part and the wires unplugged from the unit. When the new part came in , it was plug and play. Plugged the wires into the new part, put part into holes in oven and screwed the screws back in place and we were ready to go. The part was here in record time. We ordered it on Sunday, it shipped out on Monday, it arrived on Tuesday and we were back in operation! Thanks for a really smooth repair experience!

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

r & r hinge. very poor pivot pin which leads to frequent replacement of hinge assembly, cheaply made, weak spot is hinge pin pivot rivet.

removed back plate screw, removed two broiler screws. Disconnected wires in back plate by sliding them off of connectors. removed broiler coil and assembly. Using pliers, bent retaining hooks off of old coil, removed it and replaced it with the new coil. Reversed process.

First removed 2 screws holding in element housing at the back of the oven. Pulled element out and disconnected wire leads from the the element connection points. Reconnected leads from new element, pushed back into the back of oven and rescrewed into the oven housing. Done, very easy.

Had to screw off old terminal block & screw on new one

Discriptions provided by others in this section made it easy and there is little additional insight I can add. The part was delivered the next day. I don't reply to these requests for comments, as providing what I paid for is the expectation. But, this outfit did a good job.

Ordered hinge, went to Sears bought some tools to finish manufacturing the hinge, tapped out the screw hole, installed the hinge.

Unscrew and remove old element, install new element.

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

by myself

Move stove away from wall to allow working on back of stove. Unplug stove. Remove metal cover from top rear of stove. Pull control knob off of control (front of stove) Remove 2 screws holding infinite control in place (front of stove) Replacement control not identical to original control, having more terminal lugs and different physical arrangement. I used the terminal letters as a guide for placement of wires. The letters were not exactly the same, but close enough. Re-attach control to stove with 2 screws. Re-attach back metal panel to stove. Shaft on replacement control is smaller diameter and different shape from original, so I removed ribs from inside of control knob hole and then squirted a small amount of hot glue into the hole. Smearing a small amount of cooking oil onto shaft of replacent control I then slid the control knob onto the control shaft, holding it in place until the glue cooled and set. Plug stove back in, and return stove to its position next to the wall.