ACF3325AW Amana Range - Instructions

very easy

My husband took the plastic cover off and took out old bulb and screwed in the new one. Then put the cover back on.

1. Unscrewed glass cover on bulb
2. Removed old bulb
3. Screwed in new bulb
4. Replaced glass cover
5. Mixed drink & baked cupcakes

The biggest problem was gettng the correct ignitor, seems there are two. The first ignitor was the wrong one (I do not remember seeing any reference to which on the order page), but once I had the correct one my biggest issue was to get the stove out far enough for me to get behind it to take the cover off. Six scews and a disconnect and a repeat to replace and done. I must mention that the service rep was extremely helpful and easy to deal with and there was no language issue. The replacement part came in two days. I would definitely order more parts from this company

I pulled down the wire around the glass cover. . . Released on end of the wire from its holder being careful to not let the glass cover drop. Unscrewed the bulb and replaced with replacement. Easy, easy.

i got the right part from u fast del.and had it fixed in 15 min. was very happy withu service thank u will buy more parts from u when i need them it was the same part i took out

Removed plate at bottom of oven and unscrewed ignitor. Tipped oven forward and removed tiny back panel to reach plastic socket that disconnected ignitor from oven. Pulled ignitor out and awaited replacement part and did reverse steps. Oven ignitor worked right away.

For stovetop I ordered part and removed sheet metal screws from oven rear top panel after appliance was pulled from wall, gas and electrical disconnected. I pulled old spark ignitor module out and transferred colored wires to new module and snapped that into place. Replaced oven and presto, stovetop ignitors worked immediately.

took the bottom of oven out.Took the ignitor off the bar. Took the center panel off of the back of stove. Unplugged the ignitor, plugged new one in. Attached ignitor to bar.Put bottom panel back in stove. all done.

The broiler igniter and oven igniter are the same - WITH ONE MPORTANT DIFFERENCE- the plug! I tried to just switch them since we dont ever use the broiler but could not, due to the plug. I think that is part of planned obsolescence ! Anyway, I left the door and the power on - you guessed it, rebel! If you get a tingle from replacing this part you shouldnt be trying to fix it on your own! I removed the oven racks, took two small screws from rear of oven floor out, removed base plate. Two more small screws released the defective part. Pulled the plug wire through the back of oven and unclipped the connector. Plugged new part in, tucked the wires back into the insulation, replaced two screws on the igniter. Test fired oven- worked like a champ. Shut burner off, reinstalled base plate and screws and put the oven racks back in. Easy!

Insert one end of the railing into the slot in the back of the stove. Align the front end of the railing with the hole at the front of the stove. Align the roller with the hole. Secure the front end of the railing, roller ,and hole with the shoulder bolt using a 10mm wrench. Tighten just enough but don't over tighten.

The repair was easy. Used an ohm meter to find problem, if you follow wiring schematic , it is fairly easy to trace. Found open circuit across igniter. Repair was easy, only needed to remove part of back plate and bottom shel in oven and replace igniter, the repair took about 30minutes.

Replaced the igniter as I've done with other products with similar problems. My amp tester wasn't working so I didn't test the igniter. The igniter wasn't the problem so I contacted a repair man who came up with the conclusion that the problem was actually the gas control valve. The valve wasn't letting enough gas to ignite the burner.

The website helped me to troubleshoot and identify my issue. They had a complete database to find my part and some instructions to how to install it.The repair was easy: 2 screws to remove at the bottom of the inside oven to remove the large plate. Then 2 more screws to remove the ignitor. Now to unplug the ignitor, I really had to access the back of the stove. i saw videos of people doing this from the front under the stove (not moving it). In my case, for this model, I had to move the stove to the "middle of the room", to access the back. Then 2 more screws to remove a small plate where I could see the cable to unplug.It was advised to close the gas faucet, and unplug the stove. I only unplugged the electricity, and it was fine. Then I tested the repair before I put back the large plate at the bottom of the oven.My only issue was the isolation "tube" going around the 2 wires ad connected to the new ignitor. I had them on my previous model, but not on the new model. So I managed to put it back to cover/isolate the new wires. Then everything worked again.

The burner has two screws holding it in place. I remover those and lifted the burner up. I then disconnected the wire attached to the igniter that was on the old burner and attached it to the igniter that was pre-installed on the new burner. I then placed the burner back into position and reinstalled the two screws. The reason that I bought the burner assembly is that I was unable to unscrew the screw underneath that held the igniter in place on the old burner.

Removed the racks inside the oven then (2) screws that hold the bottom cover. Once the cover was off I exposed the burner element. I Removed (2) small Philips screws that held the unit. I removed electrical plug and the unit was out. I replaced the part and put everything back together. This was a very simple job took me about 10 minutes to complete. gas company wanted to charge $130 just to come out and look at. I saved some good cash.