666AJ-ESAW Admiral Range - Instructions

Exact fit, but read the instructions! Male connectors on element are labeled 1A 1B 2A 2C, very faintly etched in the ceramic. Even though the old and new elements look the same (and I took photos to aid installation), the connector locations are different -- 1A on the old element is where 2B on the new one is, etc. Used included extension wire for one that would not reach with the new configuration and everything works perfectly.

Grandson spent 1/2 hour installing unit and 15 minutes of that time was trying to get the very short grounded screw to begin to thread. It was a very small space to work in and it kept falling out. The instructions were a lot to be desired - almost nothing. He went to YouTube and got very explicit instructions. Then he had no problem as to what to do. The unit is working great now.

All went well except for error on instruction sheet.
Ground wire used on earlier Models attached to the ground lug is no longer used?? and should be removed!!! Guess what the ground wire has to be used or the element will not heat up.Soooo someone at the mfg. has no ideal what they are talking about,You have to ground the element or it will not come on.

Turned off power to cooktop and double checked
Lifted up entire cooktop and rested it on two pieces of wood that spanned gap underneath
Removed screws from around edges to free the metal framework that holds the cooktop in place-- this requires spinning the cooktop a bit to get access to the back.
Lifted metal framework off
Lifted glass from cooktop off
Checked configuration of power plug ins against new part and noted where they should go. There was a slight difference of how plugs were arranged, but it was easy to logic out.
Removed old burner unit and plugged in new one. Ensure that nothing was touching contacts.
Replaced the glass top onto cooktop
Put metal frame back in place and screwed in
Lifted entire cooktop, removed boards, and lowered back into place

First, the diagram on your website said remove two screws. The diagram looked like they were on the back of the stove on each side. On my stove there were three screws that were visible under the front lip upon opening the oven door. I removed the top, which comes completely off and set it aside. Be careful when removing the top. Don't drag it out, otherwise you'll tear up the asbestos around the other burners. Two people would be better for the inexperienced people. The new elements have been redesigned, so the diagram doesn't fit what you are looking at. Plus, the diagram on paper is looking underneath the element when you are looking down on the top of the element. I removed one wire and put it in the same spot on the new. Turned out it was not the element that was bad. It was a loose wire in the inside of the control panel.

Turned off power at panel. Removed 2 Phillips screws holding broiler element support in place. Squirted 2 additional Phillips head screws attaching element to back of stove with WD-40 and removed screws. Slid element out to access electrical connection and used short phillips screwdriver to remove. Reattached electrical connection to new element with short screwdriver (no fun as you are cantilevered into the oven and have to hold the element, the screw and the screwdriver to do this). Slid element into support and screwed support to top of stove cavity to align element. Installed screws holding element onto back wall. Turned on power and ran element long enough to dissipate WD-40 fumes.

Repair went fine, insert helped, just take your time and remember the way you took out. Started without takeing door off, I am to short and door comes off easy, unscrew the two screws holding element leaving one not quite off then the back two screws then go back to upper screw remove and element will pull out, remove 3 wires remembering the order, Wiring is a little tricky (in the stove-just 3 plugins), just pay attention and will go smooth. Then remove element and go backwards and presto your done.

remove two bracket screws, and remove bracket, the remove two mount screws for element. then remove the element. installed the element in reverse order that it was removed.

Turn Circuit breaker off.Open the Oven door removed the 2 screws to the top surface. Disconnect the wire harness mark and remove the wires from the Old Element, removed the screws holding the element to top surface, Remove element replace with new element. Install wires, install screws, reconnect wire harness reposition surface. Reinstall screws and turn Circuit breaker power back on. Done and Done

Removed burnt bulb. On replacing the bulb I glued the bracket, retainer gasket and bulb cover together- I used only a small amount of glue-just enough to hold the three items together. You need to do this since the three items slip in your hand while you attempt to screw the bracket to the oven wall. Need my help, email me @ [email protected]

Very simple, unscrew the old element. Remove the electrical spade connectors and reverse to install new element. The folks at parts select.com were very helpful and even after I ordered the wrong part, the return process was hassle free. Prompt shipping, very happy.

Ordered and received the terminal block. Installed it along with a new 220V power cord and the appropriate insulator . Ensured the terminals were tight with a nut driver. Reinstalled cover. Then, using the control panel, I did a function check on all the heating elements, clock, oven light, to satisfy all operational requirements. All checked good! And, I was relieved that the control panel had not been shorted out as the terminal block was due to a loose connection. Easy fix.

ordered new broiler pan

Turned off power, first then removed two screws
from bracket holding element. Then removed two
screws from element mounting bracket. I then
disconnected two wires using piers, and one with
a screwdriver. then put the newone in, in reverse.

The hardest part was taking out original light bulb because screws on shield where hard to unscrew after all this years . The old bulb vent out leaving neck in socket. It took narrow electrical pliers to get neck out .The generic appliance bulb did not fit and had aluminum neck ,not recommended for brass sockets in ovens.Putting new light bulb in was not the problem.