LER3330AAB Admiral Range - Instructions

Turned the power off to the oven, unscrewed the ends of the element, connected new element, screwed it back in to place and turned the powe back on. The video provided in my shipping confirmation was very helpful.

Element was sent by buyer, As they recommended, when model of stove given to them. It was upper right rear. When element came. First took off old element. ...Match both element , new element did not look exactly the same, small variation. It did not come on.. I moved old element from left side to right side . Old element worked on both side .. tried new element on left side also.. still didn't work.. so I called right away and explained.. new element did not work.. not defective, but, just wasn't the right one.. I had a specialist came and check it out also. I was told wrong element.

I unplugged the cord to the stove. Then I removed the two screws on the broken heating element. Once the screws were removed, I slid off the two wires attached to the element prones. Grab the new element and attached the two wires. Reinstalled screws. Plugged in the cord, and turned on oven. Heating element came on.

super easy after watching the how to video you had on it and iam the wife not the husband it was so easy thanks

Removed the two screws holding the sensor to the rear oven wall. pulled out sensor wire. It was caught on other wires behind the oven. removed the three screws holding the 8" inspection plate in the center of the rear panel. Carefully move the insulation and reach in to grasp the back end of the sensor wire. Once free from the snag it easily pulls out with the sensor just as stated in the video. using the appropriate adaptor it was easy to re-asseble and and attach to the oven wall. Replace the rear panel with the three screws and it was done

oven had to completely come out cause two sheet metal side panels had to be removed to get to hinge.

I did not mark wires with their associated numbered connections on the old burner but I did take pictures prior to removing the old burner. This slightly complicated finding the right connections for the wires on the new burner but the photos taken were invaluable in doing so. The placement of burner connections between new and old was different. Additionally, there were 2 connections on new and old that were not numbered. These turned out to be the power to the inner and outer coils and their connections were determined by examining the burners and connecting accordingly. Also, not mentioned in the instructions was a light on the new burner that the old burner did not have. I removed the light and the wire connecting it to the burner and connected the freed new burner connector based on the old/new burner connection numbering. Despite my lack of confidence that I correctly installed the burner, it worked on the first try and I am very happy to have it fully functional again.

removed old socket and replaced.
I was VERY pleased with Partselect. Easy to find part, it was in stock and fast delivery.

Oven sensor replacement was easy. Thermistor was installed in less than 15 minutes. After installation STILL had "F3" error message. Harness was ok, "Clock" or ECU needed to be replaced. "Computer" is obsolete, no spares available, some companies will rebuilt for $400+. Since the stove was going to the landfill I had nothing to lose by taking the "Clock" apart. It has one chip that is probably the power supply and control chip, another chip is an EEPROM with 128 bytes of storage and the last is a darlington chip that controls the relays. Cleaned up everything that looked like it needed cleaning with alcohol. When I reassembled the unit the pins for the thermistor harness felt loose, so I took it apart, again, and found cold solder joints on all four pins. It must have been there all along but plugging and unplugging the harness finally broke out the solder so I could see it. Soldered the pins back in and now it all works. It's worth a try if you're getting the "F3" message. If the relays on your stove aren't working it would be a good idea to replace the darlington chip. Good luck.

-Disconnected power from oven at the circuit breaker.
-Removed oven door and racks.
-Removed two screws holding element to the rear wall.
-Carefully pulled element away from rear wall, exposing wire leads.
-Carefully detached wire leads with male Sta-Kon connectors from element ends. (Taking care not to break or weaken the wires at the connector.)
-Disposed of old element and placed new element in same position.
-Re-attached leads by very carefully sliding male Sta-Kon connectors into the new element connectors, taking care not to push too hard and bend element wire.
-Gently re-inserted element ends into wall and re-attached element to wall with original screws.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element did not heat.
-Disconnected power and looked for collateral damage from original element failure.
-Removed oven from wall, removed rear panel and identified the high-temperature limit switch.
-Removed Sta-Kon leads and checked switch for electrical continuity. It had none, apparently the result of the high current from original element short.
-Obtained new hi-limit switch from Part Select
-Removed and replaced hi-limit switch, re-attached leads.
-Replaced rear panel and reinserted oven in wall.
-Reconnected power and tested new element. Element heated normally.
-Returned racks to oven, re-attached door and done.

I didn't repair anything because you sent me the wrong part! I submitted a claim to return it and it's been a week, and I have heard nothing from you. Horrible customer service, I'll be calling today.

I took the broiler pan out of the shipping container and put it in the oven.

First I turned the power off to the oven using the breaker switch. Removed the old bake element by first unscrewing the 2 screws for each bracket holding each side of the old bake element and unplugging the two current connections.

Replugged and rescrewed above. Turned breaker on for oven. Tested by turning oven to back and watching new bake element heat up.

I had the part overnighted since Thanksgiving was in two days and we needed to be able to use the oven. I saw a video on the website that instructed how to unplug the stove. Unscrew the baking element from the inside of back wall of oven. Gently pull out the part to where it is attached to wires. Simply pull apart the male part from female parts. Replace the old element with new element and attach it to the pulled out wires. Then gently push back wires inside the back wall of oven. Screw the attachment back in. We then plugged the oven back in. Turned on the oven to about 300 degrees. We put an oven temperature gauge inside and after a time the oven temperature was at 300 degrees and steady. It was fixed. Thanksgiving was on!

the hardest part of this repair was the wait for the element to arrive in the mail - which was in 4 business days - then took 5 to 10 minutes to get to circuit breaker box in garage. That was the longest part of the repair. My husband took the door off the oven after turning the circuit off in the garage. Followed directions from others who made the same repair and it was done in 2 minutes! Super easy - thanks for saving us money during this time of tight budgeting around the holidays! You're a lifesaver!