LER3330AAB Admiral Range - Instructions

Repairman wanted $99 just to come look at it, then the cost to fix it. I got online, found the part, 2 screws and $40 later and all fixed. Wife baked me an apple pie that evening, better than ever!

0. Throw oven circuit breaker 1. Open oven door and slide/lift door off of hinge posts 2. Remove oven drawer 3. Slide oven out from between cabinets and turn so that the back is accessible. 4. remove Phillips screws holding the cover-rear and side panel to the stove. Note which screws have pan heads and which are hex head. 5. remove stove elements and pans 6. Raise stove Top Assembly and release ceramic element sockets from their clips. 7. Push the supports for the Top Assembly fornt and back to release them from their sockets so that the Top Assembly can be lifted to near vertical. 8. Remove the hex head screw holding the Control Panel End Cap to the side panel. (Steps 5-7 might be avoided if you have a small socket wrench that can get to this screw without removing the elements.) 9. Remove the other screws holding the top of the side panel to the "Box Burner" pan that sits under the Top Assembly. 10. Pull side panel slightly away from the oven and lift it to disconnect it from the posts that hold the side panel to the front of the oven. 11. Remove the two screws on the front of the oven that hold the hing mechanism. 12. tilt and remove the hinge. 13. Open the replacement hinge so that it can fit through the hinge opening in the front of the oven. 14. Reassemble.

Left oven off. Located sensor in pdf manual. Unscrewed mount, pulled sensor out to access connector. Disconnected old sensor, checked continuity(resistance) on ohms with multimeter. No continuity; connected new sensor, screwed mount back into place, turned on oven and baked cookies to check operation & it worked perfectly.

turn off breaker take two screws loose from back of oven slowly pull out element unplug element an plug new element in push element in place an put screws back in turn on breaker done

I took the oven door apart, pulled out the broken fragments of glass and replaced it with the new glass. I should have taken notes as I took the door apart because it was a bit tricky to remember how all the pieces fit back together.

I was very impressed with how quickly the parts were shipped and the quality of the packing materials to protect the glass as it was shipped.

not to offend anybody but what i learned on prior posts helped alot..
1. remove unit and unplug.
2. remove door by opening to 45 degree angle and lifting door face towards you.
3. remove back panel to unit.e.
4.unscrew burner element from back inside of oven.
5.gently pry clip off each off burner element from rear of unit. Pull gently towards you.
6.unscrew support from inside oven.
7. remove old element and just reverse directions to reinstall.

Removed the large lower back panel of range (6-8 phillips screws) which holds upper control back panel in place. Removed upper control back panel (2 screws), exposing infinite switch electrical connections. At front face of control panel, removed (pulled off) control knob, exposing 2 phillips screws holding switch in place. (NOTE: A sleeve is on the switch arm or maybe remains inside the control knob). Look for this sleeve. Without it, the knob will NOT seize the switch rotary arm.
Removed each wire connection individually, one at a time, installing it in the proper position on the new switch.
Reverse all procedures to put things back together. A very simple, straight-forward operation.

First I removed the two screws on the bottom heating element that hold the element in palace,one on the left side one on the right side, I then pulled the element out about 2 to 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I then installed the new element. It took me about 20 mins. The cost of having some come out to fix this was about ten times of what I paid for this part. Thanks for the quick service.

First, I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then tried to pull the element out to disconnect the wires attached to the clips. The left side came right out. The right side would not. Had to pull the range out from the wall
(would only come out about a foot and a half due to the gas line connection). Removed the back (2 screws). Removed the clip from the element from the rear and redirected the wire into the oven. Replaced the back, pushed the oven back, attached the wire clip and screwed the element in place. Works fine. This is definitely a job not requiring an electrician.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

Removed the oven door and oven racks. Turned off the power to the range/oven. Unscrewed the bottom element and place the new element in its place. Screwed element in and replaced the oven door and racks. Turned the power back on and turned the oven on. It works great.

It was really easy. It took about 5 minutes to remove the screws holding the back in place. Another couple of minutes to remove the switch, and a few more minutes to change the wires over one at a time. Then 5 more minutes to put it all back together again, and plug it back in, and it just worked. Really simple.

popped out the old one with a screwdriver discconnected two wires, reconnected the wires to the new rocker sitch and popped in the new one..

My grandson, age 15 did the replacement. Now, how easy is that!

Waited for my husband to do it, but when he didn't, I tried it. Very simple! Just pulled the old gasket out of the pinch pin holes in the door, then replaced it. Tuck the one end into the hole at the bottom of the door, then match up the little pinch pins on the gasket with the holes in the door - matches up perfectly! Be sure to tuck in each of pinch pins till they sort of "snap" into each hole. Took me 5 minutes, tops. Works great now, no more lost heat around the edge of the door.