1068AH-CHZW Admiral Range - Instructions

The Burner Control Switch - 250V Part Number: PS2089409 that this site recommended was the right part for this older range. Had to remove screws to pull out the front panel with knobs, but it only pulls out a couple inches due to wires so it is tight to remove old switch. The five tabs are not in same spot so go by the labels and the wire lugs fit just fine, and the knob snapped right on and works great. Thank You!

Received the part the day after ordering. Appreciated the quick service and repair took less than a minute.

Unplug stove from outlet!! Removed screws (Phillips head) from prior element and pulled out enough to slip of the red and white wires. Keep in mind which side which is on and take old element out of oven. Put new element in and attach wires back on the same sides. Push back in and use screwdriver (Phillips head) to lift insulation to push wires and element prongs back. Put screws back in, close oven door and plug stove back in. Tested and works great!

Range is a 1967 model Maytag. First I removed drawer under oven, unplugged the range and pulled it out from the wall. Removed oven door by positioning it in the partly-open detent position, then pulled up to remove the door. Next I removed 7 screws per side panel: 3 in front and 3 in back, and one on top under cooktop, which retains the cooktop hold-down clip. With side panels removed, I noted the oven door spring position on the intact left side, then replaced the right-side spring first using the same spring adjustment positions. As I replaced the spring, I applied lithium grease to the spring hook pivot points as well as the spring coils where they rub against the interior wall. I repeated the process on the left side. I reassembled the side panels, oiled the door hinges and reinstalled the oven door. Reinstalled range and bottom drawer. The oven door operates like new, and the new springs are totally quiet — good for another 47 years!

Pulled the range away from the wall and took out all the screws of the back panel. I had two different screws. Removed the dial and took two screws out behind the dial. Carefully removed the wires and placed them on the new switch. Screwed switch to panel, replaced dial and put the back panel back on range. Pushed range back into place.

After we got the part in the mail my husband put it on and shortened the wires and put new plugs on the ends of the wires and we had to get a new plug put it on and it was fixed.

I UNPLUGGED STOVE, removed panel covering the controls, removed the knob on front and the two screws there that hold the control in, inserted new control and replaced the two screws on the front that hold it onto the stove, used needle nosed pliers to unplug one connection at a time from the old control and onto the new control in the back. When I had all connections plugged onto the new control I re-installed the panel cover with a screwdriver, plugged the stove back in, and the burner is now working good as new!

1. Removed racks 2. Removed two screws holding in the bake element. 3. Gently pulled out the element exposing the two wires connected to it. 4. The two wires were held by a clip connection. 5. Removed the wire clips holding the wires. 6. Attached the clips to the new element and re-installed the element. New problem: The element did not heat up. A repairman informed me that the selector switch was damaged during the burnout- that switch was no longer manufactured and was discontinued. Whirlpool company was checked and indicated that there was a new part # 7403P023-60 but that was discontinued too. I was able to get the element working by moving the selector switch to the "Bake" position and then moving the switch about 1/4" in the clockwise direction. The element heated and the oven works at least for now as I search for a replacement part. PartSelect was an invaluable aid and helpful all along the process.

We just installed the new rack in the oven. The amazing thing (after many unsuccessful attempts to find the correct rack) was having a friend recommend partselect.com. The gentleman I spoke to was extremely knowledgeable, helpful and efficient. We had our new rack 2 days after placing the order. We thought that kind of service didn't exist any more! Thank you so much. Now we can make 2 pizzas at the same time!!!

Slid oven out from counters. On each side there are 3 screws on the front and three screws on the back holding the side piece on. Once off, the spring was very easy to get at and replace. I had only one broken, but replaced both anyways. I think it took longer to clean the sides of the oven that haven't been touched in years than to replace the springs. This job was very simple and easy.

Turned off the power. Pull the range away from the wall and removed the eight screws holding the cover in place. Carefully pulled the wires off the old switch. Removed the old switch and replaced it with the new. Put all the wires on and replaced the back cover and was done. Burner works fine. This part replaces a lot of different number switches.

Compressed the springs and removed the damaged switch, then changed the wiring over to the new switch and press into place, worked fine.

The element appeared to have been damaged. I replaced the element with ease. However, I still have the same problem. The oven does not heat up to the set temperature. Information from the part select website is that it is more likely the long oven sensor. I ordered one and will provide the results after I have this sensor replaced with a new one.