686AH-EKVW (26X) Admiral Range - Instructions

Remove the the drawer of the gas range on the bottom, on the right side there is a alluminum cover with a bunch wires, held on with two screws,inside is the igniter kit module, make sure you unplug the range from the wall . unplug the wires from the unit and plug the new unit up and you are finish.Good luck.

First, I removed the racks, door, bottom drawer, and lifted the bottom pan up and out from the rear. Then, I unscrewed the bottom cover for the electrical stuff (under where the drawer is) as this is where the connector for the igniter is. I did a voltage test on the oven side of the connector, finding voltage there I removed the igniter by removing the 2 screws holding it to the burner. (pack lunch for that part, they will be rusted, I used a mini grinder to cut off the heads). Then I pulled the connector through the hole, and installed new igniter using self drilling screws. After i repacked the insulation, I put it back together, and it lit right up. The failed one had a bad ballast, confirmed by a continuity test.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

well my brother was over,he said he had the same stove with the same symtoms so we removed bottom tray of oven lifting from the back first then the front.there inback is the igniter.pulled wire out carefully and unplugged and unscrewed 2 small bolt's,replaced igniter remembering it is very fragile,plugged igniter in replaced insulation around wire,saved me from a new oven,thank you partsselect.ps part arrived the next day wow

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

I removed the two screws holding the ignighter on, pulled it a few inches, disconnected the plug, plugged the new ignighter in, tightened the two screws, turned on the power, and it worked. 1,2,3.

Pulled out the plug, pulled out the stove, removed the oven door, pulled out the lower shelf and racks. Used a nutdriver to remove the 2 screws from the bracket, disconnected the old ignitor, new ignitor was an exact replacement, put back in the screws, pushed back the stove and plugged it back in....Was back in business in a matter of seconds!!

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

Removed the 3 screws fastening the ign. bracket to pan housing & gas burner, pulled out the assy., removed the 2 wire nuts, removed the shield from old ign. ceramic, slipped in new ignitor ceramic, pushed the assy. back into pan opening, replaced the 3 screws & fired it up. Gas came on within 30 sec. of ignition. Put a pie in for 45min. & completed the cycle. Enjoyed the pie. Thanks for the help Parts Select.

was very easy following the instruction in YOUR web site. I feel very thank full !!!!!, because you help me a lot!!!!!!

2 screws easy to remove and plug in the wire. job done.

My son removed the pan above the ignition switch, using only a screwdriver. He checked it against the excellent website photos for compatibility with what you had to offer. I order it and it was here in Houston within 2 days of the order. Took 20 minutes to remove and compare and 7 minutes to replace the old with the new. A piece of cake.
Best thing was that the oven/stove is 29 years old and I thought I would have to buy a new one (approximately $700 for comparable)and I am a Senior Citizen. So for $48.98 and lots of elbow grease to clean the stainless steel top etc. I have a dandy, operating, dependable piece of cooking equipment !!!!

the igniter would glow but the gas would not flow...
i would have guessed the valve was bad, but every one else thought it was the igniter.. they were right. verry easy to install. the stove worjks like new.