4KSM50PWH0 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

I first ahd to remove the original feet by removing screws that held them in place. The new feet that I purchased were different then the original. They were a push in type and not held in by screws. I had to modify the base by drilling the foot holder to accept the new style feet. Once this was done, the feet were installed and looked good.

Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.

Removed old gear and grease and replaced gear and grease resembled

repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck

Placed beater in mixer head.

removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.

unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!

As I was using my mixer the spring clip broke off. I immediately went to my computer and googled you. Twenty-four hours later the part had arrived and I installed it by removing two screws, holding the spring in place and replacing the screws. At the same time a repairman was in our home repairing our drier and I felt so empowered by my repairmanship that I nearly asked him to leave!
Thanks for your extreme promptness and readable parts chart.

Just twisted it in to place. Parts Select was awesome! Thank you!

This is the tightening screw that holds the attachments into the motor unit of the mixer. Found your web site and reordered 2 replacement pieces (in case one breaks!). Very EZ and user friendly. Thank you!

A part required to operate the bowl lift had failed, "broken in half". I removed the base, by removing 4 large philips head screws, then removed the pedestal which housed the broken part by removing 4 more large philips head screws. I used a hammer and punch to drive out the split pin, a pair of pliers to remove the cotter pin and replaced the broken part.

remove the back cover part # 36, remove the top cover part # 1 (by removing the chrome ring parate # 28, the mobile disk part # 25 and six screws part # 24). This done, remove the system parat # 38 to release the Pevel Pinion Center Gear part # 15 and remove the damaged part and put the new part. The install the removed parts in reverse order as they withdrew.

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

Looked at the mixer schematic form your website,which made it easy for me to take it apart. Once it was apart & all the grease removed I disassembled & cleaned all the drive parts. Saw what was warn, ordered the parts from you. Three days later received the parts, everything fit perfect. Added grease,assembled the mixer and it ran perfect, good for another 20 yrs. Thank you for making it so easy to repair an old mixer in just over two hours. Rolf

I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!