KP26M1FQGC5 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

The appliances belong to my neighbor who had no papers/manuals so I was on my own to figure out how to even get the machine apart and to find the correct nomenclature for the parts I needed. The PartSelect diagrams on the web site told me everything I needed to know. The key to the dis-assembly was the band around the center of the machine. After I discovered that, the band came off easily followed by splitting of the casing. One the first machine it appeared that the circuit board/switch assembly was in bad shape looking like it had been over heated at one time. As a test, I took the electric component out of the machine that would run and put it on the dead mixer. Beauty, it worked. OK so much for the easy one. On the machine that would only turn part way, I split the transmission housing by removing four small bolts and found that the worm gear was partially stripped. So, I ordered a new gear, switch assembly and transmission gasket since the old one was torn during my dis-assembly process. I don't have any snap ring pliers, so the snap ring(retaining ring) was taken off using a large screw driver and a a pair of slip joint pliers. Worked well, but I was afraid that the old retaining ring may have been damaged, so I ordered a new one. Good idea, since I broke the old one trying to put it back on. When all of the parts were installed, I filled the voids with heavy grease and put it all back together. Both mixers now work perfectly which saved the owners several hundred dollars. They had planned on replacing them both for use at their restaurant. I am now a fan of PartSelect because of the ease at which I, a novice had been able to find and get the correct parts, and the speed at which they arrived. I am also very impressed with the Kitchen Aid mixers because it appears the they are very well made, and are easily repaired if they do break. I was surprised to find a small appliance that is repairable. Many are now just throw away quality. I am a hero to my neighbors (they don't know how easy this was) and will keep the refrigerator magnet that was included with my parts order, for future repairs.

removed the cover, separated the gear casing, cleaned the gears, replaced the thrust bearing kit and worm gear, greased all and reassembled. Wish I would have known to order the grease, it would have saved a couple bucks in shipping.

After trying to make a batch of heavy frosting, my KitchenAid mixer final stopped turning. After watching a video of how to change the grease in a similar model on PartsSelect and seeing it wasn't that hard to take apart, I decided to give it a try myself. Removing the cover exposed a completely worn gear drive. Luckily, it was easy to determine which parts needed replacing and PartSelect sent them in no time. Once I put everything back together, it sounded terrible which was pretty tough to take. As it turned out, the problem was flecks of metal from the gear were still in the grease and were getting caught in the mechanism. Once I thoroughly cleaned all the grease out and gave it some fresh grease the machine worked great. Much better than before. I only wish I had swapped the grease out at the same time. Thank you PartsSelect for saving me hundreds of dollars on a new machine!

Worm gear strips usually after the lower gear housing breaks. Tore down cleaned grease and shrapnel out, replace stripped worm gear and lower housing. It's convenient that the lower housing plate comes assembled with new bushing and gear. This is now the third one of these expensive mixers I have repaired, word got out that I fix them, and this is a very common problem. Repairs have been for friends and Church, so I don't charge any labor, it's kind of fun, messy, but fun. Note to Kitchen Aid: Please strengthen lower gear case.

Noticed worm gear was worn out, ordered the parts, it came very next day. On YouTube instructions were very easy to follow. Important point to remember,I washed the parts in water with chlorine in it. Retaking ring was tough to take out, as I did not have parrot beak plier, could not find it at Home Depot or Lows. Putting the retaining ring I used circular nut driver, to press it on the shaft to slide down by hammering it. While assembling follow the instruction step by step from the you tube. Machine works smoothly. Performing well. Thanks to part select, excellent web page, efficient delivery. I would recommend them to all.

Removed the cover. Removed the gear assembly cover.. Extracted the C clip with a tool. Removed the bevel gear. Pushed out the dowel pin. Used rubber mallet to push the shaft off the worm gear. Replaced the washer and the worm gear. Used a 1/2" diameter PVC, 3" long over the shaft and on the gear to push back the shaft through the gear with rubber mallet. Pushed back the dowel pin. Reinstalled the C clip. Replaced broken hub bevel gear. Added more grease. Placed the gear cover with 4 screws just tight enough to hold the cover but still allows movement. Turned the mixer to the lowest speed. Allow the cover to self adjust so that the gears have the smoothest sound. Tightened the screws while while maintaining the smooth sound. Turned off the power. Replaced the cover.

Remove Beaty band, one screw. Remove four screws holding top. Remove worm gear, by simply lifting it out. Removed all grease. Repacked with fresh grease. Take out gear case/ transmission bearing, clear all old grease, repack with new grease. Install into new gear case housing. Assemble, and Repack new worm gear and front and rear worm gear bearings, utilize old washers (2), and one small ball bearing washer. Rotate worn gear and bushing to spread the new grease throughout the gears. Replace top cover, four screws . Replace beauty ring, one screw. Run unit for 20 to 30 seconds, under no load to distribute the new grease. Works like a charm. 45 minutes to one hour. To complete.

took mixer apart down to removal of gear case cover.upon removal of this cover found the bevel gear and hub bevel gear chewed up .removed them both then replaced them both.and also had to solve a clearence problem between the 2 gears they were too loosely meshing. so had to push the hub retainer closer to take up the meshing slack.not sure my repair will hold but i have another set of gears and another solution that will surely fix it.

Used the meat grinder attachment, with the retaining ring too tight for the motor to turn the augur, so a gear stripped and the mixer would not run. I opened the mixer top, removed the transmission cover, removed enough grease to diagnose the problem (6 teeth stripped off the steel worm gear). I ordered a replacement steel worm gear and, while I was at it, a new retaining ring, bevel gear, retaining pin and the large planetary gear, as I could not tell the condition of these until I disassembled the whole gear train. I then removed the gear train components (needed a snap ring pliers to remove the retaining ring -- I don't recommend trying to remove it with an y other tool), washed them in acetone, cleaned out the transmission case and went over it with a magnet to get stray gear tooth remnants, replaced the worm and bevel gears and reassembled, using the original planetary gear, retaining pin and retaining ring. Filled the bottom of the transmission with planetary grease first, then, once the gear train had been replaced, slathered a big pile of grease over it, replaced the transmission cover. The machine then ran perfectly, so I replaced the mixer's top cover and decorative band and was back in business mixing with it about 30 minutes after cleaning the last of the grease off my hands. I should mention, I used a LOT of paper towels for this job. This was a fun job and I was sorry that it was so easy to do, as I enjoy working with gears and grease.

First and foremost, I am not mechanical at all. I typically refer to parts as thing-a-ma-jigs, and whatca-ma-call-its. When it froze up and started to make a loud grinding noise, I guessed it was a gear problem. I decided to try to take it apart, What did I have to lose? If I couldn't figure it out, I would be down a mixer. I was already down one as it was. It was very easy to take apart and I could immediately see what gears needed to be replaced. Parts Select made it very easy to see what parts I needed. And delivery was lightning fast; the next day after it shipped! I found a PDF on line on how to dis-assemble and re-assemble the mixer. I got it together and it mixed for a few minutes and froze again. I took it apart and realized that I didn't have the whatcha-ma-call-it (worm gear) seated properly. Fixed it and put it back together and put it to the test. Working just fine now! Thank you Parts Select for making this very easy!

Ordered new worm gear and received in a few days. I cleaned out old grease from the gear housing, replaced the worm gear and packed with new grease. Machine runs well now. Easy repair.

removed the cover as stated in the e-mail and followed their recommendations on how to do the repair, the hardest part was removing the retainer clip, job went smoothly. thanks

Removed shroud and gear case top. No snap-ring pliers, so I used two small vice grips, one on each lobe, and spread and "worried" the ring up the shaft. Changed out all ghe grease in case of metal chips. Put it back tegether. Works fine.

This is a 6 Qt. made by Kitchen Aid Stand Up mixer 575. watts with 6 qt. bowl. A powerful machine. But not geared to crush Almonds. After about 2 quarts of Almond crushing to make Almond butter I heard the machine thumbing inside and turned it off immediately. Mind you, I am a 60 year old man with Maintenance Mechanic, and Machinist skills. If you listen to my instructions which aren't that hard you can do this. REMOVE THE POWER CHORD BEFORE CONTINUING. First you have to find the screws that hold the top half of the machine together. They are under the silver Kitchen Aid Stainless Steel 5/8th Band that runs around the middle of the machine. On the back of the machine is a small machine screw that when taken out removes the band. Remove the band carefully as not to bend it because it has to go back on looking pretty. Comes off easy. You will then see 4 longer 3/4 inch screws around the middle of the machine head. When you remove these screws the top half of the machine head will lift up. The top half of the machine head lifts off very easy. Throw all your screws into the top so you don't mis place them. You will see a Motor some gears on the side and a shaft that comes from the motor going into a Cast Aluminum Casing with another 4 screws 3/4 exactly the same size as the ones you took from around the top mixer casing. This is easy cause you don't have allot of different size screws only the one small one that screws on the back of the band. After these four screws are removed, again lift up the top half of the casing but this time it will be full with gear grease. Put the casing aside and using paper towels wife a little of the gear grease off the top gear. In order to turn the gear you must use the side drive gear or look around the gear you will notice in some of the gear slots will be shinny and worn. This is the Bevel Gear. There is a C locking shaft cliff that keeps the gear locked in. You must have a multiple C clip remover pliers that has different size C clips for the holes in the clip must be spread apart in order to remove the clip all the way up the shaft. NOTE:; DO NOT USE A PLYERS TO TRY AND PRY THIS CLIP OFF IT IS STRANG AND YOU MAY MAR THE STAINLESS STEEL GEAR SHAFT. You must use the gear C clip remover, I found one moderately prized for 25 dollars at the Home Depot or any large chain hard ware stores will have it. After the C clip is removed, slide the gear evenly up. If it's stuck that's only because of grease unless you mar the shaft by not listening to me. I also replace the Top Hum Bevel gear which is in the top half of the hub. Parts select has a Diagram that shows you the parts and where they are. When putting on the Bevel Gear over the shaft be sure to lower it evenly and guide it onto the worm gear. There is a small pin that sticks out in the middle of the gear make sure this lines up when setting the gear into the worm gear. The Top Bevel Gear, falls right out and you can use your figures to pull this one out and put the new one in. If you replace the Bevel gear my experience as a mechanics is to always replaces the adjacent gear as well, both will be worn. attach the C cliff the same what as taking it off except opposite. Pull the tow clip holes apart and slide it down to the shaft groove for the clip. Put everything back the way you took it off. One NOTE;.. DO NOT DO TOUGHT THE SIDE DRIVE GEAR IT IS SET IN WITH BRASE LOCKING SHIMS AND HAVE TO BE SET A CERTAIN WAY TO CLOSE. When closing make sure the Top Hub is in line with these brace shims. After screwing the hub back down do not over tighten, just snug it tight. Be sure to buy axle gear grade and replace any grease removed, this chamber must be loaded with grease. There is never too much only too little as you will wear the gears down without the proper amount. DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING THAT DOES NEED TO BE TOUCHED LIKE THE MOTOR OR DRIVE SHAFTS OR SIDE MAIN GEAR…

The transmission housing was cracked and one of the bearings was broken. I replaced both of them, but the mixer really didn't sound any better. So I replaced the gears in the transmission, and while that was better it still wasn't correct. I am going to replace the other bearing and the planetary shaft and see it that aligns everything a bit better. I believe the problem is the way the gear on the end of the motor shaft is working with the worm gear, the bearings are not keeping the correct spacing. Hopefully, the new one in the rear will fix the problem.