KSM150-1 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

Obviously the problem was in the gear box of the mixer. I disassembled the gear box by removing the four large screws holding the base then the four screws at the rear and center of the mixer. Then I removed the thin metal ring covering the five screws around the front of the housing by gently prying up with a small screwdriver. The five screws beneth the ring have to be removed with a small blade screwdriver turning them a round at a time in sequence until they are free. Gently pry the two housings apart with a screwdriver and lift our the lower half with the plantary gears. I found the drive gear was stripped. I went to PartSelect on the web, eaisly found the exploded view of the mixer's gear box and ordered the gear I needed. The gear is part of an assembly attached to the mixer housing with three screws. Work around the lubricant in the housing. Within four days I received the new gear, installed it by reversing the above procedures and the mixer is working again. The total cost was $34.85. Not a bad investment considering the mixer cost over $400 and would have been trashed for want of one part.

I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!

Took out stuck brush assy cleaned it and the coil and reinstalled it.
Googled internet to see how to best remove and replace Board-Phase as no instructions came with parts. Actual work replacing parts took only a few minutes. The main work was tearing down the working head to get to the parts and putting it back together. Also had to google how to adjust speed control plate to the correct speed. It helps to have patience and instructions.

Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.

Inserted new pin and tightened set screw.

Took out 3 screws, removed old plate, put down new plate the tightened screws. Runs like new, great service, price, quick delivery!

I called my fiancée.

Turned the mixer on its side and slid the part into the bottom of the base.

Three phillips-head screws held the "Cap Screw" in place on the stand of the mixer. After cleaning the stuff out of the screw slots, the screws came out surprisingly easy. After the plate was lifted off, we cleaned the residue from under the plate, placed the new one in position and easily screwed in the 3 screws.
We were very pleased by the quick delivery of the part.

unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!

removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.

New mixer bowl locks

repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck

Looked at the mixer schematic form your website,which made it easy for me to take it apart. Once it was apart & all the grease removed I disassembled & cleaned all the drive parts. Saw what was warn, ordered the parts from you. Three days later received the parts, everything fit perfect. Added grease,assembled the mixer and it ran perfect, good for another 20 yrs. Thank you for making it so easy to repair an old mixer in just over two hours. Rolf

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.