KP26M1XNP5 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

took off the strap band around mixer, took off the cover (4 screws, took off gear cover (4 screws) took off the retaining ring(used pliers and screwdriver) took off upper gear, took out retaining pin, took off lower gear (becareful to grab the planetary assembly as it will fall out after you take out the retaining pin) cleaned out all of the gear grease (the teeth that were missing were in it. replaced the planetary assembly, lower gear and retaining pin. replaced the upper gear, replaced the retaining ring (used screwdriver and hammer. you have to spread the ring with end of screw driver so it will fit on the shaft then tap lightly with screwdriver and hammer to get it down to the keyway for the ring.) replaced the gear grease with NEW grease, reaplaced the gear cover, replaced the mixer cover, replaced the strap band and plugged it in to test it. IT was quieter than before and works great. i spent less than $30 to repair my 10 year old, out of warranty, Kitchen Aid Mixer. much better than the $32.00 to ship it to factory repair shop and get an estimate to repair. I needed it to make a cake for my nephews wedding. I had my parts in 2 DAYS!!! it was a great experience over all.

Great experience. Reasonable cost. Quick delivery. Would certainly use PartSelect again

opened the mixer.. all screws in kitchaid are the same so not to worry... opened up and replaced the gears... and put it back together... diagram helped in that front and rear bearings of connecting gear are the same # on diagram it is easy to confuse when you put it back together, but the item number and description of each helped make sure it was in the right place. Otherwise... time to fix would have been less....

took mixer cover off, took gear box cover off, removed gears, replaced gears, replaced covers, made cookies, no problem!!

removed top casing, removed old switch and sensor,and replaced with new ones. It was just a matter of a half dozen screws and unpluging 4 or 5 wires and then reversing the process. Couldn't be easier. thank you

I sent for a new thumb screw and screwed it in where it belongs and now I can use my other attachments.

replaced Speed control board. less than 40.00 took ten minuets from the time I started until we were making cookies.

I replaced the switch component twice and I still have the same problem. I will purchase a new motor now see if that works? I'll post what happens thanks

We are a pretty handy bunch here. However, the diagrams provided with the part numbers did assist in the disassembly. It went smooth and easy.

The rear 'loop' on the bowl assembly broke off when our cleaning lady tried to wrench the bowl lift handle in the wrong direction. The loop connects to the handle with a rod and spring and the bowl lift mechanism is the piece that slides up and down. I tried to weld the loop back to the bowl lift, but because it is aluminum, it didn't work very well. I purchased the new bowl lift assembly with a new spring (thought I'd lost the first one). This came just as if from the factory, slid it on the track, inserted the rod and screw into the loop and tightened the fastening nut. Easy peasy. Saved myself a $300 - $400 new kitchen aid professional mixer. It did take about 1.5 - 2 weeks to arrive, but it did and that's what counts. Very pleased with my experience.

This is a 6 Qt. made by Kitchen Aid Stand Up mixer 575. watts with 6 qt. bowl. A powerful machine. But not geared to crush Almonds. After about 2 quarts of Almond crushing to make Almond butter I heard the machine thumbing inside and turned it off immediately. Mind you, I am a 60 year old man with Maintenance Mechanic, and Machinist skills. If you listen to my instructions which aren't that hard you can do this. REMOVE THE POWER CHORD BEFORE CONTINUING. First you have to find the screws that hold the top half of the machine together. They are under the silver Kitchen Aid Stainless Steel 5/8th Band that runs around the middle of the machine. On the back of the machine is a small machine screw that when taken out removes the band. Remove the band carefully as not to bend it because it has to go back on looking pretty. Comes off easy. You will then see 4 longer 3/4 inch screws around the middle of the machine head. When you remove these screws the top half of the machine head will lift up. The top half of the machine head lifts off very easy. Throw all your screws into the top so you don't mis place them. You will see a Motor some gears on the side and a shaft that comes from the motor going into a Cast Aluminum Casing with another 4 screws 3/4 exactly the same size as the ones you took from around the top mixer casing. This is easy cause you don't have allot of different size screws only the one small one that screws on the back of the band. After these four screws are removed, again lift up the top half of the casing but this time it will be full with gear grease. Put the casing aside and using paper towels wife a little of the gear grease off the top gear. In order to turn the gear you must use the side drive gear or look around the gear you will notice in some of the gear slots will be shinny and worn. This is the Bevel Gear. There is a C locking shaft cliff that keeps the gear locked in. You must have a multiple C clip remover pliers that has different size C clips for the holes in the clip must be spread apart in order to remove the clip all the way up the shaft. NOTE:; DO NOT USE A PLYERS TO TRY AND PRY THIS CLIP OFF IT IS STRANG AND YOU MAY MAR THE STAINLESS STEEL GEAR SHAFT. You must use the gear C clip remover, I found one moderately prized for 25 dollars at the Home Depot or any large chain hard ware stores will have it. After the C clip is removed, slide the gear evenly up. If it's stuck that's only because of grease unless you mar the shaft by not listening to me. I also replace the Top Hum Bevel gear which is in the top half of the hub. Parts select has a Diagram that shows you the parts and where they are. When putting on the Bevel Gear over the shaft be sure to lower it evenly and guide it onto the worm gear. There is a small pin that sticks out in the middle of the gear make sure this lines up when setting the gear into the worm gear. The Top Bevel Gear, falls right out and you can use your figures to pull this one out and put the new one in. If you replace the Bevel gear my experience as a mechanics is to always replaces the adjacent gear as well, both will be worn. attach the C cliff the same what as taking it off except opposite. Pull the tow clip holes apart and slide it down to the shaft groove for the clip. Put everything back the way you took it off. One NOTE;.. DO NOT DO TOUGHT THE SIDE DRIVE GEAR IT IS SET IN WITH BRASE LOCKING SHIMS AND HAVE TO BE SET A CERTAIN WAY TO CLOSE. When closing make sure the Top Hub is in line with these brace shims. After screwing the hub back down do not over tighten, just snug it tight. Be sure to buy axle gear grade and replace any grease removed, this chamber must be loaded with grease. There is never too much only too little as you will wear the gears down without the proper amount. DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING THAT DOES NEED TO BE TOUCHED LIKE THE MOTOR OR DRIVE SHAFTS OR SIDE MAIN GEAR…

replaced planetary assembly. Was not difficult to do.

Had to repalce all the parts due to several issues caused the main problem. I am a mechanic by trade so it was easy to repair.

took mixer apart down to removal of gear case cover.upon removal of this cover found the bevel gear and hub bevel gear chewed up .removed them both then replaced them both.and also had to solve a clearence problem between the 2 gears they were too loosely meshing. so had to push the hub retainer closer to take up the meshing slack.not sure my repair will hold but i have another set of gears and another solution that will surely fix it.

I had previously ordered several other gears after I found one of the worm gears stripped. After putting it all back together, the one major gear in the unit that I had not replaced because it looked fine, the bevel gear, also stripped. Learning experience: this is a unit worth several hundred dollars, so don't skimp on a $4 part. Once you work on this thing, you might as well spend a few bucks more and replace ALL the gears - even if they look like they are okay. Furthermore, if you only take 15 minutes to do this repair, as some on this site suggest, you are probably not cleaning the old grease carefully enough. Make sure you properly clean out the old grease to remove any metal from stripped gears, and use a good quality grease to re-pack the gear case.