KD2661-3 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

Removed shroud and gear case top. No snap-ring pliers, so I used two small vice grips, one on each lobe, and spread and "worried" the ring up the shaft. Changed out all ghe grease in case of metal chips. Put it back tegether. Works fine.

This is a 6 Qt. made by Kitchen Aid Stand Up mixer 575. watts with 6 qt. bowl. A powerful machine. But not geared to crush Almonds. After about 2 quarts of Almond crushing to make Almond butter I heard the machine thumbing inside and turned it off immediately. Mind you, I am a 60 year old man with Maintenance Mechanic, and Machinist skills. If you listen to my instructions which aren't that hard you can do this. REMOVE THE POWER CHORD BEFORE CONTINUING. First you have to find the screws that hold the top half of the machine together. They are under the silver Kitchen Aid Stainless Steel 5/8th Band that runs around the middle of the machine. On the back of the machine is a small machine screw that when taken out removes the band. Remove the band carefully as not to bend it because it has to go back on looking pretty. Comes off easy. You will then see 4 longer 3/4 inch screws around the middle of the machine head. When you remove these screws the top half of the machine head will lift up. The top half of the machine head lifts off very easy. Throw all your screws into the top so you don't mis place them. You will see a Motor some gears on the side and a shaft that comes from the motor going into a Cast Aluminum Casing with another 4 screws 3/4 exactly the same size as the ones you took from around the top mixer casing. This is easy cause you don't have allot of different size screws only the one small one that screws on the back of the band. After these four screws are removed, again lift up the top half of the casing but this time it will be full with gear grease. Put the casing aside and using paper towels wife a little of the gear grease off the top gear. In order to turn the gear you must use the side drive gear or look around the gear you will notice in some of the gear slots will be shinny and worn. This is the Bevel Gear. There is a C locking shaft cliff that keeps the gear locked in. You must have a multiple C clip remover pliers that has different size C clips for the holes in the clip must be spread apart in order to remove the clip all the way up the shaft. NOTE:; DO NOT USE A PLYERS TO TRY AND PRY THIS CLIP OFF IT IS STRANG AND YOU MAY MAR THE STAINLESS STEEL GEAR SHAFT. You must use the gear C clip remover, I found one moderately prized for 25 dollars at the Home Depot or any large chain hard ware stores will have it. After the C clip is removed, slide the gear evenly up. If it's stuck that's only because of grease unless you mar the shaft by not listening to me. I also replace the Top Hum Bevel gear which is in the top half of the hub. Parts select has a Diagram that shows you the parts and where they are. When putting on the Bevel Gear over the shaft be sure to lower it evenly and guide it onto the worm gear. There is a small pin that sticks out in the middle of the gear make sure this lines up when setting the gear into the worm gear. The Top Bevel Gear, falls right out and you can use your figures to pull this one out and put the new one in. If you replace the Bevel gear my experience as a mechanics is to always replaces the adjacent gear as well, both will be worn. attach the C cliff the same what as taking it off except opposite. Pull the tow clip holes apart and slide it down to the shaft groove for the clip. Put everything back the way you took it off. One NOTE;.. DO NOT DO TOUGHT THE SIDE DRIVE GEAR IT IS SET IN WITH BRASE LOCKING SHIMS AND HAVE TO BE SET A CERTAIN WAY TO CLOSE. When closing make sure the Top Hub is in line with these brace shims. After screwing the hub back down do not over tighten, just snug it tight. Be sure to buy axle gear grade and replace any grease removed, this chamber must be loaded with grease. There is never too much only too little as you will wear the gears down without the proper amount. DO NOT TOUCH ANY THING THAT DOES NEED TO BE TOUCHED LIKE THE MOTOR OR DRIVE SHAFTS OR SIDE MAIN GEAR…

Removed the cover. Removed the gear assembly cover.. Extracted the C clip with a tool. Removed the bevel gear. Pushed out the dowel pin. Used rubber mallet to push the shaft off the worm gear. Replaced the washer and the worm gear. Used a 1/2" diameter PVC, 3" long over the shaft and on the gear to push back the shaft through the gear with rubber mallet. Pushed back the dowel pin. Reinstalled the C clip. Replaced broken hub bevel gear. Added more grease. Placed the gear cover with 4 screws just tight enough to hold the cover but still allows movement. Turned the mixer to the lowest speed. Allow the cover to self adjust so that the gears have the smoothest sound. Tightened the screws while while maintaining the smooth sound. Turned off the power. Replaced the cover.

The transmission housing was cracked and one of the bearings was broken. I replaced both of them, but the mixer really didn't sound any better. So I replaced the gears in the transmission, and while that was better it still wasn't correct. I am going to replace the other bearing and the planetary shaft and see it that aligns everything a bit better. I believe the problem is the way the gear on the end of the motor shaft is working with the worm gear, the bearings are not keeping the correct spacing. Hopefully, the new one in the rear will fix the problem.

First of all, go to the web site and download the schematics of the model #. It will show all the parts and part #s. Secondly watch a u tube video of the actual strip down process of the professional 600 series stand mixer. With this knowledge, do one of two processes 1: strip down the machine, remove the gears and check for defects- order parts. Or 2: replace all the parts( little money) and have a totally refurbished , smooth running mixer. I kept the good used gears for spares. I replaced 90 % of the internals ( including motor) and have a smooth running machine. I initially burned out the mother 2 months after initial purchase, sent it back under warentee, and received it back . Wen I stripped it down 10 years later, there was very little grease in the gear housing. This is what probable ruined the gears. Use plenty of grease in the housing and gears. The grease is one of the most expensive items, but you can't find it anywhere, so order it, along with everything else, from Parts Select.

replaced planetary assembly. Was not difficult to do.

I replaced the switch component twice and I still have the same problem. I will purchase a new motor now see if that works? I'll post what happens thanks

took off the strap band around mixer, took off the cover (4 screws, took off gear cover (4 screws) took off the retaining ring(used pliers and screwdriver) took off upper gear, took out retaining pin, took off lower gear (becareful to grab the planetary assembly as it will fall out after you take out the retaining pin) cleaned out all of the gear grease (the teeth that were missing were in it. replaced the planetary assembly, lower gear and retaining pin. replaced the upper gear, replaced the retaining ring (used screwdriver and hammer. you have to spread the ring with end of screw driver so it will fit on the shaft then tap lightly with screwdriver and hammer to get it down to the keyway for the ring.) replaced the gear grease with NEW grease, reaplaced the gear cover, replaced the mixer cover, replaced the strap band and plugged it in to test it. IT was quieter than before and works great. i spent less than $30 to repair my 10 year old, out of warranty, Kitchen Aid Mixer. much better than the $32.00 to ship it to factory repair shop and get an estimate to repair. I needed it to make a cake for my nephews wedding. I had my parts in 2 DAYS!!! it was a great experience over all.

removed cover. Removed cover over gears. Used lock washer pliers to remove lock washer. Took out gears. Cleaned metal shavings from old gear and grease. Reassembled using new gear. Took about 15 minutes and saved $$ over sending mixer out for the repair.

I unplugged the mixer, then I removed the Phillips screw holding the beauty ring, then removed the 4 screws that hold the motor housing together. I removed the housing top, and unscrewed the speed control switch. I marked each one of the connectors of the switch (there are 4) 1-4 then disconnected the speed sensor from the switch and the motor. Replaced the new sensor and connected that to the new speed control switch. reconnected the connectors to the terminals I took them from ( 1 - 4 ) screwed it into place. replaced the top motor housing, I screwed that back with the four screws. replaced the beauty ring and screw. plugged it in and tested it and it was like new

The KitchenAid is "old school" in that it is held together with simple (but very stout) bolts and screws. I removed about 10 such fasteners, slipped off the gear retainer, and pulled it out. On Sunday, a very nice customer service rep helped me order the right part, but I did the rest on line in a matter of seconds. It shipped on Monday and arrived on Wednesday. Took about 10 minutes to put everything back. I REALLY WISH everything was this easy in 2012!!!

I looked on line found the product sent in information and 3 days later was in my mailbox,great service and ease of ordering. thanks marjorie

removed top casing, removed old switch and sensor,and replaced with new ones. It was just a matter of a half dozen screws and unpluging 4 or 5 wires and then reversing the process. Couldn't be easier. thank you

Removed one screw to remove deco band around mixer body. Removed four screws under band to remove mixer top. Removed two screws holding switch. Removed wires one at a time putting them in the same position on the new switch. Re-attached switch, mixer top, and deco band. Works perfectly.

Great experience. Reasonable cost. Quick delivery. Would certainly use PartSelect again