KSM5BBU KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

All we had to do was place the new wire whip on and it works fine.

‘Can’t remember well enough to describe accurately. Removed one screw to remove rear cover. Removed two screws to remove bright-metal band - probably not necessary but it did yield a bit more working space. IIRC, three screws and removing wires from spade-connectors was sufficient to remove the speed control plate. Remove one more screw to remove phase control board (probably unnecessary). I took close-up pictures with my iPhone first to assure wires would get replaced on the proper lugs (only to discover the wiring diagram later). Adjusting the control plate to meet the speed criteria in the instructions was very easy. It did serve to remind me that I probably didn’t need either of the new parts; readjusting the old speed control plate would probably have done it. But I appreciate the POM brought on by the new parts.

It’s an incredible pleasure to work on something so well-made as this old Kitchen-Aid mixer. I just enjoyed handling it! Having achieved a proper repair was rather satisfying too. I just loved the entire experience!

Obviously the problem was in the gear box of the mixer. I disassembled the gear box by removing the four large screws holding the base then the four screws at the rear and center of the mixer. Then I removed the thin metal ring covering the five screws around the front of the housing by gently prying up with a small screwdriver. The five screws beneth the ring have to be removed with a small blade screwdriver turning them a round at a time in sequence until they are free. Gently pry the two housings apart with a screwdriver and lift our the lower half with the plantary gears. I found the drive gear was stripped. I went to PartSelect on the web, eaisly found the exploded view of the mixer's gear box and ordered the gear I needed. The gear is part of an assembly attached to the mixer housing with three screws. Work around the lubricant in the housing. Within four days I received the new gear, installed it by reversing the above procedures and the mixer is working again. The total cost was $34.85. Not a bad investment considering the mixer cost over $400 and would have been trashed for want of one part.

checked online for the part name, called and ordered the spring latch. It came in a couple days and works fine. Many thanks.

I called my fiancée.

Followed step-by-step video instructions for dis-assembly/reassembly found at ereplacementparts.com. All went well except when driving out the pin that holds the worm gear in the tower. The video wasn't exactly clear enough about what position the pin should be in when driving it out and I inadvertently drove the pin out so that it was trapped inside the tower assembly. Result? I had to bend the pin to get it out, causing an extra expenditure and wait time to order a new pin. So, lesson learned: be sure the pin is horizontal to the tower and not perpendicular to when driving the pin out. Also, I found that having the mixer apart was a good time to replace the grease in the housing. I don't think it would be required to replace the grease at this time but I was worried that pieces of the old worm gear could remain in the grease and possible get jammed in the gears after repairs were completed. Be sure to get a "food grade" grease not grease from your local auto parts store! The table knife was the best tool to use to remove the grease and to smear the grease all over the internal gears when replacing it.

I disassembled the mixer using a YouTube video as a guide. Disassembly was easy, as everything was held together with pins and threaded fasteners, and all electrical connections were plug-on.

Cleaning out the old grease was messy and time-consuming. I used a putty knife, screwdrivers (used them like small putty knives in the crevasses), paper towels, and finally, small cloths dampened with alcohol. After about a hour (maybe 90 minutes) everything actually looked like new.

I originally diagnosed the problem as the plastic gear loosening up from it's hub, so I ordered the complete gear tower assembly. It turned out not to be the problem- the gears were fine. With the gears removed to eliminate load, I applied power and saw that the original symptom was still there.

Further research turned up that this symptom is more likely a failed field coil, or possibly the phase control board. I ordered both from PartSelect. In the meantime, I tested the armature by measuring the resistance across the brushes as I slowly turned it by hand. At every angle, the resistance was about 7.5 ohms. Nothing lower, and no opens, so I'm pretty sure the armature is OK.

The phase control board arrived, but as of this writing, the field coil has been back ordered for almost a month. While I waited, I tried a partial reassembly of the head with the new board, and it worked! This weekend, I'll finish reassembly of the motor unit to the base/gearbox and calibrate the speed governor. In addition to the new gear tower and phase control board, it has new grease, seals, and both side levers (tilt and speed control) that had lost their knobs some time ago.

Hopefully it will be ready for another quarter century of use!

repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck

removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.

unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!

Two flat head screws removed, swapped out the latch, and replaced.
The entire repair took about two minutes.
Price was acceptable given the worth of the mixer.

Unplugged mixer. Removed screw holding cover on. Removed end seal. Inspected repair area for furhter damage. Installed new end seal and cover.

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

As I was using my mixer the spring clip broke off. I immediately went to my computer and googled you. Twenty-four hours later the part had arrived and I installed it by removing two screws, holding the spring in place and replacing the screws. At the same time a repairman was in our home repairing our drier and I felt so empowered by my repairmanship that I nearly asked him to leave!
Thanks for your extreme promptness and readable parts chart.

Separated the mixer head from the pedestal and base by removing four bolt/screws (It is not necessary to separate the base and pedestal) . Rotated the lift arm to the raised position (a screwdriver might come in handy since the broken part might impede access) and removed the cotter pin (using needlenosed pliers) on the broken lift arm. Then used a hammer and a small hex driver to punch out the lift lever retaining/actuating pin. This allowed me to pull out the lift lever and replace the broken part with the new lift arm. It was a simple matter to then replace the lift lever retaining/actuating pin and the lift arm cotter pin, and reassemble the mixer head and pedestal.