KSM120ER5 KitchenAid Mixer - Instructions

Just replaced the beater.

Three phillips-head screws held the "Cap Screw" in place on the stand of the mixer. After cleaning the stuff out of the screw slots, the screws came out surprisingly easy. After the plate was lifted off, we cleaned the residue from under the plate, placed the new one in position and easily screwed in the 3 screws.
We were very pleased by the quick delivery of the part.

Took out 3 screws, removed old plate, put down new plate the tightened screws. Runs like new, great service, price, quick delivery!

Inserted new pin and tightened set screw.

Turned the mixer on its side and slid the part into the bottom of the base.

None

removed the screws holding the mixer housing and then removed the worn worm gear by removing the roll pin holding it on the shaft. Replaced the worm gear and inserted the pin that hole it in place. Replaced some of the gear grease and reassembled mixer. Went very easily. No problems at all.

unscrewed the old one........screwed in the new one, no chance for electrocution or power tools..........darn!

repair is farly simple just take your time, First attempted i didnt replace the speed covernor looked ok but had problems getting slow end to work properly decided to go ahead and install since i purchased it also and walia took care of the cogging problem. Good Luck

Literally the whole top of this stand mixer had to be taken apart. With the help of U-tube! We realized the silver strip was removable and there where screws underneath. We figured we would replace both parts while it was all taken apart. We cleaned the mixer and added some grease where necessary. I now have a 25 year old new mixer. Thanks for having our parts and guiding us with a diagram of the unit. Very helpful.

We have the classic Hobart-made KitchenAid mixer from the mid-1980s. The original cord sheathing was disintegrating. The replacement cord is actually a better design, but the housing needs to be filed down to slide the cord into place. The old housing channel on my mixer only allowed for something basically the cord width to fit through. The part of the cord that now fits tight against the housing is much thicker and sturdier than the original. I started with a metal file to widen the housing channel, which was working but taking a long time. My son the electrical engineer suggested a Dremel, which was indeed faster on the thick aluminum housing. We used a small circular sanding tip to avoid damaging any adjacent workings. My son also saw that the slim strain relief collar at the top of the cord was pushing and bending the wires too much against the rest of the unit, so he took an X-acto knife and gently rolled the cutting edge along the base of the top collar until he could tear away that extra collar and let the wires lie more naturally in the space. We also managed to break the paper gasket meant to shield the motor from vented flour (in my case lots of years of cocoa powder! Time to vacuum here), but taped that back together with black electrical tape. After the adjustments were made, the cord replacement itself took about 2 minutes. If your mixer is more modern, you may not need to make any adjustments like we did. Just take a picture of how the wires attach and duplicate that with the new wires in the cord.

Replace went good used the online video, my husband doesn't usually use any help but said the video helped him. Now my mixer works perfect. Also the price and shipping time was awesome.

Punched out the roll pin to remove eccentric from spindle, undid 5 screws (after removing trim ring), and removed 4 screws to undo the motor housing. Make sure to keep the one screw with a lock washer in the BACK of the housing. Undid the screw on top to remove the back of the motor housing to take out the strain relief grommet, prior to removing the motor housing. Scraped the excess grease into a tub to re-use. Pulled out the shaft, and lifted out the old (stripped) gear and plopped the new one in. Make sure to mark match points for parts, and put the pins back in in the right order. You have to put the 5 screws back in before sliding the trim ring on, and putting the roll pin back. make sure all gears mesh and test before snugging the motor housing screws. Be sure to orient the strain relief grommet securely, and be careful of the filter plates in the back of the housing (they're brittle). putting the grease back is like frosting a cake. Save a little for the planetary ass'y.

Watched a YouTube video to disassemble,from there went smoothly. One small piece of advice,take pictures with your smart phone during the process. Makes remembering easier.

Place Pin in hole where it was missing then gently tap pin into place
Run a test and all is good ??
make sure to use a drift pin set
Tom