KUDS03FTBT0 (Biscuit) KitchenAid Miscellaneous - Instructions

Tried to clean old part and it did not work. Ordered the new part on Saturday and received it on Tuesday. Removed the old part and installed the new one. Ran the machine and it worked great. A big savings on not having to buy a new machine!!

Removed the old tines by pushing out the clips on the end and then installed the new tines and applied clips - took 10 minutes worked slick and the washer basket looks to be brand.

Turn off breaker to dishwasher.
Remove lower basket.
Drain any water using a wet vac.
Remove bottom cover plate. Should be 2 plastic screws using flat head screwdriver.
Should be able to reach pump. Turn counter clockwise to remove.
Disconnect plug wire on pump.
Install new pump by turning clock wise.
Reattach wire plug.
Run a wash cycle with empty dishwasher and check for leaks.
Replace cover plate.
Done.

put new hose on, very easy.

Just removed the old seal and followed the instructions that came with the new one. Since the old one didn't have any adhesive on it ,I didn't use the adhesice on the new one. Problem solved!

I took the unit apart to find out what was making the loud noise and found the seal on the main pump had been leaking ito the bearing on the motor.

Removed required hardware and dishwasher from undercounter mount. Turned dishwasher on its front and removed the old motor. Installed the new motor and tested for function. Installed once test was successful.

I opened yutube and noted the tips on how to fix specific problems with my dishwasher. That "steve" guy was very helpful. I tested the old bi-metal fuse with no flow and ordered a new replacement through partselect. The part arrived in one day and was fitted quickly. I used the teat meter to confirm that the fuse was ok before I installed it. The only problem that I had was identifying the part and number from a diagram which I did not have.

Watch your video about my dishwasher symptoms. Move water tube for upper rack to the right and release lower spray arm. Remove 4 clutch head screws from filter cover and remove. Dig out 10 years of undisolved soap and reassemble.

I researched the internet about this symptom on the Kenmore Elite Dishwasher and I found lots of people with the same problem. Everyone fixed it by replacing the Bi-Metal Fuse. I removed the old fuse and tested continuity and it was indeed bad. Once the new fuse arrived I tested continuity and it of course worked as expected, so that was a nice wipe of the brow. The new Bi-Metal Fuse came with a nice instruction manual. I also used a video from YouTube to help with the repair as well, but the included instructions were enough. The only thing that was not clear was the best way to attach the new wire since it was quite a bit longer than what was orginially there. So I ended up just folding it up and putting everything back together and it worked just fine. This repair was very easy as long as you are OK with cutting and stripping wires in a somewhat confined space and not being too worried that you might mess it up for good... :)

removed rack
removed one screw
removed old seal
installed new seal
installed screw

I removed the upper dishwasher rack and disassembled the middle spray arm as described in other posts. Replacement was easy. The difficult part was to figure out what was causing my dishwasher to leak. I had seen many references on line to leaks being caused by the door seal or lower vent wear. I had replaced both. Those replacements resulted in less leaking, but I still had water coming out. There were also references to leaks sometimes being caused when the lower spray arm was cracked, but mine was fine. (My dishwasher has an aluminum lower arm, so it wouldn't crack.) I discovered the middle spray arm was cracked when replacing the upper dish rack. (It was starting to rust.) Apparently, when the middle spray arm is cracked, the heavier circular water flow from it creates a wave motion (vortex) in the bottom of the dishwasher. That pushes water past the seals at the bottom of the door. Once I replaced the middle spray arm the water leak problem disappeared. As an added bonus, my glasses came out cleaner! I have never seen a post indicating that a cracked middle spray arm could lead to water leakage, so hopefully this post solves someone else's mystery problem!

Remove the mounting screws that hold the dishwasher under the counter top. Remove dust cover plates at the bottom of the machine. The machine will have to be pulled out, so turn off the water to the machine. Usually under the kitchen sink. Disconnect water supply and push it out of the way so the dishwasher can be pulled out. Pull machine out enough so you have access to the door cables and springs. The door will have to be in the closed(up) position to do the repair. Usually only one side is broken. Start with the broken side and copy the working side when installing new parts. Then repair the working side. To get the working side apart just pull on the spring and disconnect it from the cable. Do the reverse to reinstall.

Removed the old hose, after loosing metal looking rings. Installed new hose ad finally tight firmly the looking rings, using wrench and socket.

Removed old tine rows and replaced with the new parts. No tools were needed. Each was replaced one at a time so the old ones could serve as a model for how the new ones were inserted and attached. Not much more complicated than changing a light bulb. Parts appear to be good original equipment quality but quite pricy for these very simple pieces.