22305 (1988) Kenmore Miscellaneous - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Margaret from Kingwood, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPY04100165, 715878, 715877
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
small burner only heated intermittently.
Unplugged old burner element, plugged in new element.
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install burner drip pans
Did not need tools for this job. Simply lift burner element and remove old drip pan and put new one in its place. However - the drip pans that were shipped only fit on the left side of the range. The right side, where the grill attachment goes, is so shallow that the drip pans on that side hit the bottom plate beneath the burner element and would not let the element go down far enough to seat properly. I kept the two pans that don't fit for extras, but I still need shallower pans to fit on the right side.
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old, crusty drip pans
This was so easy. I've looked for years in stores for these pans. I finally tried the Internet, found PartSelects and, holding my breath at what i'd find, voila'...perfect fit, perfect replacements. And it took just a couple days to arrive. I'll definately be back!
/John
/John
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- Customer:
- Lora from SEBASTIAN, FL
- Parts Used:
- 12200035
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Origin knobs cracked
Just slip new knobs on. Simple and works great!!
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- Customer:
- Ray from NESCONSET, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11120795
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Wrench (Adjustable)
Half of elements didn’t heat
Your staff helped me find the updated replacement that worked and when I was having some connection issues helped me get it right!
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- Customer:
- Debra from Syosset, NY
- Parts Used:
- W11120795
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Burners were not regulating and they were just going on high
I am not really handy. When the repair man came and gave me a price of $220 to repair two infinite switches, I looked up the cost of the switch and saw that it was easy to do...and it was! I saved $140 for doing it myself (no help from my husband).
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
First I turned off the power, unscrewed two screws and took the knob panel off. Wrote down the colored wires and then pulled them off the infinite switch (some needed pliers) and then i just put the wires back on the new switch...done...it works!
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- Customer:
- John from FRESNO, CA
- Parts Used:
- WP71003558, 715396K
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
Downdraft blower motor noise, fluctuating fan speed and binding. Also replaced indicator light for burner knob.
1. Turned off electrical breaker at electrical service panel.
2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top.
3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top.
4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection)
5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box).
6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan.
7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position.
8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor.
9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan.
10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
Note:
I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable.
I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.
The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.
2. Tested stove top to verify correct breaker was off as well as cook top.
3. Removed front electrical connection panel @ cook top.
4. Disconnected wires to blower fan. (Before disconnection I color coded wires for correct reconnection)
5. Removed the bracket holding the armored cable (protecting motor wires) and removed wires (where connects to electrical connection box).
6. Removed 4 nuts @ blower motor housing and removed blower motor housing and fan.
7. Removed 3 screws that attached the blower fan to the blower motor housing noting or marking the position of the housing to the motor bracket in order to have the same placement position.
8. Pulled the 3 connecting wires from the armored cable protector to separate housing from motor.
9. Removed the fan assembly from the blower motor shaft by using an allen wrench carefully noting the distance from motor face to the fan.
10. Noting/marking the position of the motor mounting bracket connections unscrew the nut and screw that secures the bracket to the motor.
11. Reassemble in reverse order.
Note:
I taped the motor wires tightly together every 3 or so inches to be able to slide through the armored cable.
I also had to rotate the mounting bracket a little to be able to perfectly match the motor housing to the motor bracket.
The new fan motor works great but it's a little bit louder.
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- Customer:
- Kenneth from Crosby, TX
- Parts Used:
- W11120795, WPY04100166, 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Burner was not heating
Took an volt/ohm meter tested the connections, burner resistance and wiring AFTER turning off the power. Note: I used the volt/ohm meter to check to be sure power was off. Just in case the circuit breaker box wasn't labeled correctly. After determining the switch was open and was not making connection I ordered a new one from Parts Select. I also ordered a new burner and wiring with socket since the old one appeared well used with age. By replacing the burner, wiring and switch it put the stove top in a like new condition. Parts Select was fast and had great prices. It was very easy and the connections to the switch were plug type making the repairs very easy.
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- Customer:
- Richard C from San Jose, CA
- Parts Used:
- 12001676
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
Frayed and exposed receptical wires in cartridge
* Do not lose the supplied CERAMIC electric connecting nuts; they will not fry in the heat.
* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.
* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.
* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.
* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.
* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.
* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.
* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
* Unplug the heating elements from the old receptacles, and remove any rings; unplug the cartridge by lifting up the back side and pulling gently toward the back of the stovetop.
* Unscrew the cartridge top from the cartridge base (about 12 screws) and the recepticals, and cut the old wire close to the old receptacle.
* If you have a spare magnetic thingy around, use it to hold the screws and not lose them.
* Screw in the new receptacles, route the newer wiring from the receptacles (use as much of the new wire as possible), back toward the wiring block on the cartridge plug.
* Recut the old wiring to accomodate the length of the new wiring, but leave at least 2-3" from the wiring block, if possible. Re-connect them using only the supplied CERAMIC electric nuts.
* The CERAMIC nuts allayed my fears about the effect of heat on a plastic nut; ceramic is designed for high-heat environments.
* Reverse the disassembly steps to reassemble and reinstall the cartridge.
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- Customer:
- Alfred from Fayetteville, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPY04100166, WPY04100165, 715878, 715877
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Old stove drip bowls needed replacing
Removed heating elements and dropped new drip bowls in and replaced new elements
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- Customer:
- FRANCIS from MILLBURY, MA
- Parts Used:
- W11120795
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Right front burner switch burnt out
Shut off power. Removed screws holding panel.Removed wires from old switch.Installed wires on new switch and reinstalled panel.EASY
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- Customer:
- Starla from Tomball, TX
- Parts Used:
- WPY04100166, WPY04100165
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Replacement of elements
Simply unplugged the old elements and inserted the new ones.
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- Customer:
- Melanie from SALIDA, CO
- Parts Used:
- 715396K
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Replace burnt out indicator light
I feel that the design of the indicator light, with the base attached to the bottom of the lens, is ingenious in that it eliminates the need for fasteners in that confined space, However, the plastic used for the base needs to be more flexible. Part of the base broke off in trying to force the base over the bottom of the lens. Fortunately, there was enough left on the base that I could slip it over the bottom of the lens and complete the installation.
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- Customer:
- Owen B Douglass from BROOMALL, PA
- Parts Used:
- W11120795
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Burn was full on or "high" at any switch position other than off.
Followed other's instructions from the web site: First - turned off the power at circuit breaker; removed two screws from downdraft vent area; pushed the switch housing back towards vent and lifted; held replacement switch next to defective switch and removed and replaced one wire at a time; loosed switch collar-nut and swapped defective switch for new one. Only issue was the "rat's nest" of wires gave very little room to work, especially if you have average sized hands.
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