IMH172DS0 Whirlpool Microwave - Instructions

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

RATHER EASY. PHILIPS SCREWDRIVER, TORX DRIVER (FOR THE 2 SCREWS SECURING THE GEARMOTOR ITSELF), VERY SMALL SCREWDRIVER TO ASSIST IN DEPRESSING THE DETENTS ON ELECTRICAL CONNECTORS AT THE MOTOR. IF THE MICROWAVE IS ABOVE A STOVE UNIT, IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO PLACE A TOWEL DOWN ON THE STOVETOP TO CATCH ANY WAYWARD SCREW IF ONE HAPPENS TO GET AWAY. (VOICE OF EXPERIENCE)

Don't waste your time with other parts stores online. Partselect sells quality parts and they arrived 2 days early. I purchase a door switch from another online store and the switch was defective.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.

Replaced both filters

I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

Remove top grill screws [2] remove grill replace filter put back together.

Unplug the microwave. Removed the glass tray, the roller ring, and plastic piece that sits on the motor shaft from the inside of the microwave. Remove the 12 Phillips head screws from the bottom of microwave, let the bottom hang down on the mounting hooks at the rear of the microwave. Remove the 2 torx screws from the mounting bracket under the microwave lower the turntable motor remove the two leads. Transfer the rubber washer from the old motor to the new and reassemble and test. It took longer to write these instructions than it did to do the job.

Hint: if the microwave is over a stove lay a towel across the stove to catch any screws that may fall.

Good luck and enjoy your fully functional microwave!

Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.

I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.

Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.

mounted bracket, case closed.

Loosened but did not remove screws that held up microwave over range,removed grill on top by loosening screws that held grill in place.removed small mesh grill on right side of microwave, this gave me access to capacitor ,diode is connected from one lead of capacitor to a metal plate ground,Disccarged capacitor to ground by shorting terminals to ground using a thick insulated screwdriver.Since the diode was screwed to the top of the metal plate I cut it out with a pair of side cutters .I then connected the new diode to the capacitor with my long nose pliers and groonded the other end to a more accessible part of the metal grounding plate.I then replaced all parts in reverse order.Works like a charm.

remove 6 lower screws, removed lower panel,2 screws holding drive motor,lower motor, remove old coupling from inside microwave and replace with new coupling, re install motor,install lower panel and screws.no more sparks