WMH31017AS5 Whirlpool Microwave - Instructions

Spouse just screwed in the new bulb and reinstalled the light cover plate with the two screws. Took under a minute. Works great.

Just opened the door and dropped in new part and viola!

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Unplugged the microvave, removed the phillips screw holding the right hand section of the microwave in place (Note: This screw is found by looking through a vent opening in the TOP of the microwave body.). Lifted up and out on the right hand section of the microwave. At this point the right hand section is completely unattached to the microwave body. Unplugged all of the polarized wiring harnesses and removed the screw holding the green wire to the board holder. Removed the screws holding the board to the right hand section and installed the new board. Reversed the procedure to put the microwave back together. Note: Look at and manipulate the keypad ribbon recepticle on the new board to see how to remove and reattach the ribbon, if needed.

Repair unsuccessful because they sent the wrong part, even after I questioned their selection. It is amazing how a company as large as Whirlpool cannot clearly indicate to the people who work for them how to order the correct part. The fault lies not in the individual who is putting the order in but with the company who cannot take the time to make sure that person is successful in completing their job. Will never buy a product from this company again.
As far as the shipping is concerned. It took forever, just to find out that the part was incorrect.
Better luck next time. right?

I had to cut the leads on the thermostat to enable the wire terminal clips to fit on the leads. Not hard at all when the right tools are available. Care must be used because the leads are subject to being damaged. “ Hold leads with narrow needle nose pliers while cutting!

Based on other similar posted repairs, I purchased the bottom switch. Upon removing the control panel to replace the switch, I found the blue 22 gauge wire was broken at the spade terminal. This wire had been crimped to the terminal along with a 14 gauge wire. Apparently the force to crimp the thicker wire weakened the smaller wire at the terminal. I stripped the end of the small blue wire and reattached it to the thicker wire using a solder iron and solder. The repair fixed the problem.

removed perimeter screws from the bottom side and the lower cover is hinged at the wall side. Motor is visible and easily removed with two screws. Take of the old one, install the new one, and reverse the procedure to put the bottom cover back in place. Will nee helper to hold one side of the bottom until couple of screws can be put in on the other side.

-Removed cowel covering over door.
-Unscrewed hinge pin on the top left side of the door (keep hinge pin handy for reassembly).
-Lift old door out.
-Align new door into bottom left hinge assembly.
-Align top left under top left hinge assembly. Insert hinge pin and tighten.

It was a very simple and easy fix, no tools needed. First, open the door to the microwave/oven and remove the glass plate and the plastic plate guide. Next, locate the whole in the center. Using your finger, find the drive coupling pin that sits just below the opening (half circle shape). Align the bottom of the drive coupling with the metal pin and press down. Replace the plate guide and plate. The grooves in the bottom of the glass plate should be aligned with the shape of the drive coupling. Test by setting microwave/oven to 30 seconds and watch for proper turning and alignment.

Took out turntable and swapped out old one with a new bright and shiny
New one, ring that is. It was easy using the part from parts select
Thanks
Paul

Unscrewed glass panel, removed old bulb, cleaned glass panel and installed new bulb. Screwed panel back into place.

On top front of the microwave are two Philip's head screws holding the rail on. Remove these screws and the rail snap out the old filter (noting the dark side down) then snapping the new filter in. Replace rail. 10 to 15 minute task.

Removed the top screw holding the control face. Lift up on control face and tilt outward to unplug wires and remove green ground wire screw. Place unit on a flat surface and remove flat wire plug by squeezing tabs and lift up slightly then remove flat wire. Unscrew screws holding PC board. Then reverse order the install of the new PC board and install unit on to microwave.

After removing the over-the-range unit (no small feat!) I had to figure out how to open the case (good puzzle!). Capacitor had already discharged, so it was very easy to reach in, pop the old fuse and install the new one! As per your advice, I found out I was a "28%-er"! Upon re-installation, the microwave "sprang to life"!! Thanks, "Part Select"!! I was already shopping around for a new machine! (Now if you could only tell me an easier way to re-mount this heavy beast over the stove!!!)