WMH73L20AS1 Whirlpool Microwave - Instructions

Unplug the microwave. Then remove the six screws that hold the lower panel which has the light bulb cover and a couple of vent filters. The light bulb sockets are on a fixture that is connected by a quick connect electrical connector. Disconnect that and the whole panel is free to access the bulbs. My bulbs were very fragile and trying to twist them out resulted in the glass twisitng loose with the base still in the sockets. I needed to use a needle nose pliers to remove the bases and then I replaced the bulbs and put every thing back together

Since I have All Whirlpool appliances in the home, the only one not a Whirlpool was a counter top dishwasher that looks exactly like it could be a Whirlpool and so not to be the odd unit out, I labeled it with with a Whirlpool logo nameplate on the face of the door. Now everything matches perfectly and all in the same exact color white too.

Just measured and marked where the plate was to be located, cleaned that part of the surface, peeled the backing and carefully placed the logo name plate in place and pressed it on. Voila. Done and looks original as well. Call me the big, deep fakearooski.

Took out turntable and swapped out old one with a new bright and shiny
New one, ring that is. It was easy using the part from parts select
Thanks
Paul

It was a very simple and easy fix, no tools needed. First, open the door to the microwave/oven and remove the glass plate and the plastic plate guide. Next, locate the whole in the center. Using your finger, find the drive coupling pin that sits just below the opening (half circle shape). Align the bottom of the drive coupling with the metal pin and press down. Replace the plate guide and plate. The grooves in the bottom of the glass plate should be aligned with the shape of the drive coupling. Test by setting microwave/oven to 30 seconds and watch for proper turning and alignment.

Based on other similar posted repairs, I purchased the bottom switch. Upon removing the control panel to replace the switch, I found the blue 22 gauge wire was broken at the spade terminal. This wire had been crimped to the terminal along with a 14 gauge wire. Apparently the force to crimp the thicker wire weakened the smaller wire at the terminal. I stripped the end of the small blue wire and reattached it to the thicker wire using a solder iron and solder. The repair fixed the problem.

Unscrewed glass panel, removed old bulb, cleaned glass panel and installed new bulb. Screwed panel back into place.

I removed the microwave to install a back splash and found the support edge on the backplate had broken off and was missing. I searched for parts for the microwave and found them on PartsSelect.com. Easy to order, and was shipped promptly.

Once the part arrived, install was simple, lining up the existing holes. The only hard part was setting the microwave up on the bracket due to the weight and awkwardness of the microwave.

Overall a very simple repair.

After removing the over-the-range unit (no small feat!) I had to figure out how to open the case (good puzzle!). Capacitor had already discharged, so it was very easy to reach in, pop the old fuse and install the new one! As per your advice, I found out I was a "28%-er"! Upon re-installation, the microwave "sprang to life"!! Thanks, "Part Select"!! I was already shopping around for a new machine! (Now if you could only tell me an easier way to re-mount this heavy beast over the stove!!!)

On top front of the microwave are two Philip's head screws holding the rail on. Remove these screws and the rail snap out the old filter (noting the dark side down) then snapping the new filter in. Replace rail. 10 to 15 minute task.

Removed the face plate above the door (2 Phillips screws.) Removed existing filter and replaced with the new one purchased. Reinstalled the face plate.

Replaced tray. No tools needed.

when I opened the back cover of microwave, the diode was kind of blackish blown, since there was light bulb and fan were still working, i thought it could be problem with any one of the components like; magnatron or capacitor or diode, so first replaced the diode and mica at the end of the magnatron duct, there was problem with door switch as well. i fixed that too. Now it is working. It cooks bit faster, Wondering why?

Put new plate in and it was fixed

I simply lifted out the glass rotating plate and inserted the new support. How complicated can that be?!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Removed one screw lowered glass cover removed burned out bulb replaced with new one put glass back reinstalled screw. Dune 5 minutes back in business