MHE14XMD0 Roper Microwave - Instructions

I just screwed the part in place. This is the third grill I've had to replace.

Why a tenant would remove and discard the grease filters without replacing them is beyond me! But, I removed the filters from the package and slid them into place. Two minutes tops. I would like to add that I ordered these on Thursday afternoon, and I had them on Saturday; awesome customer service!

This is the second replacement tray we have in installed. The first one ( Not From Here ) we had for less than 5 months, we made a bag of popcorn, and about 5 minutes later we heard a crash, not knowing where the noise came from we dismissed it. The next day we opened the microwave a saw the plate had shattered. So we hope that this will not do the same thing.

Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart. Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.

I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!

My unit is a wall mount/cabinet/built-in model. The repair is actually fairly simple once you determine that the actual microwave is just a component of the entire unit, and that it (the microwave) can be easily removed from the unit. I did not figure this out until after I removed the entire unit (disconnect the power supply, lift the entire bulky, heavy unit out of the cramped space in the cabinet, etc). Once I got it out I figured out how easy it is to remove the actual oven - a couple of screws, literally. The unit is a bit bulky, but not particularly heavy and is quite manageable. I did this entire process alone.

I got the oven out, rolled it on it's side and found the plate to access the motor. The plate is located on the bottom/underside of the unit. The plate is nothing more than a section of the underside of the metal housing that has been cut-out as an access point. This "cut-out" is not complete - that is, not completely cut out so as to all the plate to stay in place without the need for screws, etc, until you actually have to use it. I used a pair of dykes to cut the couple of points still connecting this plate, removed the two phillips screws to remove the motor, disconnected the two wires connected, then reversed to complete the repair. You then flip the cut-out plate over/rotate it, and some screw holes line up. Find a couple of small screws, and re-attach the plate to cover the motor.

The actual fix is really easy, again, once you figure out the simple way to remove the oven. I am an idiot, so you will probably find this much easier. I could probably do this repair now, after my experience, in less than 30 minutes (probably less than 15 minutes). I probably save a couple hundred $ by doing it myself so was well worth the time to do it. Good luck.

removed two screws,lowered the glass shield,removed the burned out bulb and replaced it with the new one. I ordered the bulb from parts select and recieved it two days later. It was a pleasure to deal with them, and certainly use them again.

I had some difficulty removing the glass plate because of the awkward (upside down) position of the screw that retained it. After replacing the burned out bulbs and replacig the glass plate the problem of replacing the screw involved my dropping the thing several times before I got the screw threads to catch. I got a screw thread to catch enough to hold the glass plate in position and left it at that.

The hard part was trying to find the light bulb locally. The locally sold light bulbs were either too long, not dual element or not powerful enough. So I ordered the light bulb straight from PartSelect. When it came time to install the new light bulb I carefully removed the screw holding the plate in position so as not to loose it in my gas stove. I needed the mirror to line up the light bulb and screw it in. Once it was in I verified operation and closed up the plate being careful not to drop the screw into my gas stove. Problem solved.

I found the part number for the mount on the appliances company website. Once I had that I visited a few sites looking for part. This site was easy to use and priced right, so I ordered. A few days later the product arrived as promised and worked perfectly for the install.

Read some instructions and easily found the fuse. Replaced it. Still didn't work. Took control panel off to check door switches. Nothing I read mentioned a second fuse. Tested and it to had blown. Ordered another one. Popped them in. Done.

KitchenAid Microwave [Model: KHMS 145 JBS-0]Door Handle Repair
Tools and Parts
• Door Handle [Part # PS390101]
• Putty Knife
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Tray (cup) for parts during disassembly/reassembly (3 screws on door; 2 screws on handle; spacer on top-door edge).
Instructions
• Preparation
o Disassembly can be managed with the door mounted on the unit. The handle is attached by 2-screws that can be accessed only by separating the outer/inner door panels.
o Before starting the project, watch the Youtube.com video for a GE Microwave, which is the most applicable video for removing the collar [i.e., plastic bezel around the viewing window on the inner door) and for separating the outer/inner door panels ].

• Remove the collar
Photo 1: Inner-side clip (bottom of collar) used on
3-sides of the collar (top edge is a spacer) Photo 2: Hinge side clip (right edge)

o As indicated in the video, small clips are on the inner-side of the collar on 3-sides (top, bottom, and open-door edge).
o The clips are on the outside of the collar for the door-hinge side.
o These clips are small and somewhat fragile – once a few are popped, finger pressure will generally pop the remaining clips.


• Separate the outer/inner door panels

Photo shows the inner/outer doors separated, and the 3-screws removed.
o Remove the 3-screws on the door edge before separating the outer door panel.
o There is a plastic spacer on the top, outside edge of the door that is not cemented. Remove the spacer after separating the door panels.
o Use a putty knife to pop the clips for the outer-door panel around the top, bottom, and open-door sides.
o The top door corner (the spacer edge) is tight and should be gently pushed back.
o The outer door panel will remain attached on the hinged edge and function like a second door – move gently.
o The viewing glass is clamped in place; but, handle with caution.

• Remove the Door Handle
o With the outer/inner panels separated, remove the two screws holding the handle and remove the handle.
o Retain the screws for later use.

• Install the new Door Handle
o Reuse the original screws (Note, [Part # W10841091 – screw] is a different thread, and is not self-tapping)
o The door-handle screw holes are not tapped; so insert the old screws in the handle to tap before installing the handle, leaving approximately 1/8 - 3/16” exposed.
o Remove the screws and reuse to install the handle.


Comparison of 2-original screws vs. replacement screw (note thread gauge differences).
• Reinstall the Outer Door Panel
o Align the spacer with the inner-panel edge in the upper corner.
o Close the outer panel, gently snapping the clips into place.
o Reinstall the 3-screws on the door edge.

• Reinstall the Collar
o Snap the hinge side in place.
o Gently snap the remaining sides in place

I looked up a YouTube video of someone with a similar over the oven microwave. That helped me get into the area behind the control panel where the door switches are. I checked the springs and the cam rocker? The thing that actually hits the button on the switch when the door closes. They were in good condition so I assumed the door switch was bad. There are two so I just purchased one figuring (hoping) that only one was bad. And lo and behold only one was bad. Bing bam boom. Put it all back together and I'm set. Not too difficult. Took a week of work because it takes like 50 days to ship. My kitchen looked like a hurricane after image because of all the parts scattered everywhere.

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)