MMV5000ADW Maytag Microwave - Instructions
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- Customer:
- connie from madison, NC
- Parts Used:
- WPM0805101
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Died while heating lasagna
Removed 4 small star head screws from back of microwave, lifted body off, removed blown fuse and replaced with new one (found where cord enters). This model is stainless inside and out and I like it a lot. It is also sold by Daewoo and a few other manufacturers.
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- Customer:
- Corley from Fort Stockton, TX
- Parts Used:
- WP56001139
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
two tiny plastic posts, which cracked or broke resulting in door handle almost falling off
My son-in-law took the handle off. We saw the problem (Maytag put two tiny plastic posts that crack about once a year. This was the 2nd replacement in 2 years.) When the new part came in my 15 year old grandson put it on easily. This is a no-brainer!
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- Customer:
- Kat from Hudson, NC
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Lights bulbs burned out
Really easy for a 75-year old female; just spent more time reading the online manual than actually installing the light bulbs to find out where to access the light bulbs.
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- Customer:
- James from Staten Island, NY
- Parts Used:
- WP56001036
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave would not heat food. All other functionality was working as expected
I disconnected the power. Took off the front panel that was held together by two screws. Reviewed the schematic that was inside. Located the switches, saw which lead was burnt. Unscrewed the two screws that held the switch in place, cleaned the connector, and put the switch in and connectors back. Powered the device, tested for cooking/heating functionality. It worked, Closed the front panel
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- Customer:
- John from SANTA CLARA, CA
- Parts Used:
- WPR9800486
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
No heat
Removed case,
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
Discharged HV capacitor and removed cooling fan.
Unscrewed ground end of HV diode and unplugged from HV capacitor.
Installed new diode by reversing the order. In my case, the problem was the magnetron was bad, so I replaced it as well.
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- Customer:
- Verne from HENDERSONVLLE, NC
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace bulb under the microwave
Piece of cake. One screw to release the dropdown light diffuser. Just remember, the you're screwing the new bulb in from a reverse perspective. Also this site sends the correct part the first time.
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- Customer:
- Ruth from New Bloomfield, MO
- Parts Used:
- WP56001136, WP56001139
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
microwave handle was completely broken off
Found info on how to replace handle here. Couldn't have done it without that information! We popped out the black trim on the inside of the door and removed the spring to access the bottom screw. From there it was pretty much easy to see where ever thing fit. Had difficulty getting the tabs clipped in the front of the door.
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- Customer:
- Barbara from MERIDIAN, ID
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Range light bulbs were burned out
We needed a phillips head screw driver to remove the single screw holding the light bulb cover in place.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.
Removing the old bulbs was a little work, because they had come loose from the sockets. We unplugged the microwave, so we could grip the sockets with a tool. I think my husband used a needle nose plier for this.
The new bulbs screwed in easily, and then we refastened the light bulb cover with the phillips head screw driver.
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- Customer:
- Pablo from Burlingame, CA
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
light bulb burned-out
screwed in new bulb
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- Customer:
- Alvin from HILTON HEAD, SC
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Exterior light bulb (PS2376034) broken off in socket. No access for pliers after glass cover removed.
Unplug appliance. Remove total of 7 phillips screws from sides and front of bottom panel . Panel front drops down, remove one socket screw and socket. Now have access for lineman' s pliers to unscrew bulb base. Reinstall socket, replace bulb and 7 panel screws. Restore power.
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- Customer:
- DAN from CARPENTERSVLE, IL
- Parts Used:
- 8206232A
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
light bulb burnt out .
Turn off power supply at breaker . Replace old bulb with new bulb .
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- Customer:
- Mark from GREENSBURG, PA
- Parts Used:
- WPR9800486
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
microwave not heating
removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).
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- Customer:
- Anne from MIRAMAR BEACH, FL
- Parts Used:
- WP56001136
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Old handle broke
First, I didn't realize that there were two parts to the handle. I ordered what I thought was the handle and then had to order an inner handle after I had taken the old handle off. I'm an old, not very agile lady, with minimum experience and ability, so I did struggle. I would strongly recommend a screw drive which has a magnet, as it is really difficult to put the screws which fasten the handle, back into the handle. Feel very proud of self tho, because I did do it, and now it works!
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- Customer:
- Forrest from Eugene, OR
- Parts Used:
- WPR9800486
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Microwave oven ran but stopped heating
I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).
To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.
Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.
BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).
The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.
One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).
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- Customer:
- David from Fredericksburg, PA
- Parts Used:
- WP56001139, WP56001136
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
Broken Inner and Outer handle
1. Open Door
2. Use Putty Knife and and carefully separate outer door frame from inner door frame
by sliding the putty knife all the way around the frame from the inside
3. Remove the old broken handle. You should use a pointy nose pliers to take hold of the
handle screws once you have then loose...
4. Install new handle, Make sure it is seated flush in the door frame, then tighten with
two screws (use the pointy nose pliers to get them started . .very tight space to work in)
5. Snap on outer frame.
6. Your done!
Dave
2. Use Putty Knife and and carefully separate outer door frame from inner door frame
by sliding the putty knife all the way around the frame from the inside
3. Remove the old broken handle. You should use a pointy nose pliers to take hold of the
handle screws once you have then loose...
4. Install new handle, Make sure it is seated flush in the door frame, then tighten with
two screws (use the pointy nose pliers to get them started . .very tight space to work in)
5. Snap on outer frame.
6. Your done!
Dave
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