JMV8208CS4 Maytag Microwave - Instructions

This should be a 1 minute repair. However, there are a few issues. First, make sure you order the correct bulb. Mine is a halogen push in bulb, but the parts list showed a screw in bulb.
Remove power from the unit OR be sure that the light is turned off with the push switch.. The display will show the status as you rotate through the dim levels.
There is a single Phillips head screw holding the cover on the underside of the over stove microwave. carefully remove it. When loose the panel will drop down and you will find the old bulb in the center of the front of the opening. Remove the bulb. Now the important part. Carefully unpack the new bulb being careful to not touch the glass with your bare hands or fingers. Then insert the bulb into the socket.
If you unplugged the unit then plug it back in and push the switch to check that the new bulb works and is in the socket, then turn it back off.
Carefully lift the cover back into position and replace the screw. This is the hard part as you are working upside down and can't really see when it is lined up properly. When you have the screw back in and tight you are done. Press the light switch to enjoy your lit up stove again and put your tools away.
If you get your fingers on the glass bulb then clean it off with some rubbing alcohol and a paper towel to remove any finger oils before you put the cover back in place. Finger oils can boil with the heat of the lit bulb and cause the glass to explode. This holds true for any halogen bulb.

Remove the two screws to the plastic vent strip at the top of the unit. That exposes a metal cover (upper right) held in place by two more screws. (Found that removing the screw holding the key panel in place and moving that out of the way made for more work room) Remove the metal cover. The HV diode (visible) on one end is secured to the chassis by a screw. The other end is fitted to the HV capacitor. So unscrew one end and pull the HV diode off the capacitor. The replacement fits on like the old one came off. Very simple repair. But it would be safe to short the capacitor terminals to the chassis first. Noticed that it appeared the sparking was caused by the HV diode's outer casing being worn by the asbestos covered wire next to it and laying against it. I made sure the two were not touching, before putting the covers back on. Also, the problem started with an occasional spark when the MW started. It quickly deteriorated to a full, non-stop electrical sparking. You can hear it, smell it, and see it through the top vent. You don't need to remove unit to work on it.

Replaced both filters

I measured. I leveled. I mounted hanging bracket and here's where it got tricky because you need two people to raise the microwave into position. I'd stack 2x4's In the back by the wall. I'd stackem in the front on the cabinet top then raise the back and add more. You get it front back front back until it's high enough to snag the bracket. Holes pre drilled raise it on up tighten bolts and poof you're done!! I did loosen the screws that pull the cabinets together and the bottom screw that holes the cabinet on one side. It didn't seem like it needed it the way it slipped in but maybe it slipped in because I did it. Only takes a minute. Use a minute here save an hour there. Go do it! Times a wastin!!

One Phillip's screw to remove glass on bottom of unit. Pull old bulb out & insert new bulb. Replace glass & screw.

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

Remove top grill screws [2] remove grill replace filter put back together.

I used the microwave model number to order a replacement turntable. We received the item and it did not fit. Not even close. I will have to send it back. Very disappointed

I first unplugged the microwave. I then unscrewed the 2 screws from the top grill. I had to be careful because the grill was cracked close to each screw. It was a little tricky to remove the grill. Had to tilt it down as I removed it, and make sure the microwave door was opened as wide as possible. Filters were placed as the old ones, with the metal part up I believe. A little tricky to get one of the filters to fit. Grill was replaced with care so as not to further Crack it. Kind of maneuvered grill back in place, getting right side in place first. I noticed there were several tabs on the grill that needed to be placed inside of the microwave body while reinstalling the grill. Once the grill was in place, the 2 screws were put in to hold the grill in place.

mounted bracket, case closed.

Remove “over the stove” unit. Remove unit shell case. Unscrew and disconnect diode. Replace diode. Re-assemble. Put unit back in place.

Loosened but did not remove screws that held up microwave over range,removed grill on top by loosening screws that held grill in place.removed small mesh grill on right side of microwave, this gave me access to capacitor ,diode is connected from one lead of capacitor to a metal plate ground,Disccarged capacitor to ground by shorting terminals to ground using a thick insulated screwdriver.Since the diode was screwed to the top of the metal plate I cut it out with a pair of side cutters .I then connected the new diode to the capacitor with my long nose pliers and groonded the other end to a more accessible part of the metal grounding plate.I then replaced all parts in reverse order.Works like a charm.

Replaced bulbs easily.

Two Mounting plates # PS12074431 were sent to me and both do not fit.
Model number MMV1175JZ-0
Serial number TRX-17. 24546
Manufactured April 2020
Contacted Maytag and even sent pictures to show the problem with alignment of the mounting plate not fit in the back of the microwave.

Used a philips head screwdriver to remove one screw holding the light cover. Pulled out the old bulb and inserted the new one. Replaced the cover.