KCMS1555SBL2 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

The power on the microwave went completely out when I went to use it, but there was no power failure for the house or neighborhood. We removed the microwave from above the oven. Took out the screws on the sides and back of the microwave and slid the top back. The line fuse was located on top unobstructed, NOT behind the button panel like some microwave models. As the appliance is over 20 years old the line fuse was quite old. It was really hard to pry it out of its holder and actually broke. I used a vacuum to suck up the dust and glass and it was easier to get out the ends once the middle broke. Popped the new line fuse in, slid the top back on, put in the screws and put the microwave back in its compartment above the stove. Good as new!! We were about to spend money on a new microwave, but thankfully I came across this site. So happy I did!!

This repair was really easy. The part that took the most time was taking it down from it's compartment above the oven and putting it back up there once repaired.

Remove outside cover of microwave.Note that there are 3 unique security screws that you will need a special screwdriver to remove. There is a YouTube video that shows how to install new part. Although this was a lot cheaper than buying a new microwave the cost of $57.00 plus shipping for this 3 inch plastic part was ridiculously expensive.

The instructions on the website were incredibly easy and I saved myself a lot of headache by using this site.

-it was built in unit - so I needed to pull the decorative grill from around the outside to remove it from the wall
- removing the back of the case involved removing phillips head screws from along the side and back of the unit. the only issue I encountered on removing screws was the fact that the "torx / star" screws could not be fit with the wrench that I had (they had a pin in the center that would not allow the wrench to fit into the star). However, a pair of pliers was handy and they were removed just easily.
- I had ordered both the high voltage diode and magnetron because I didn't know which item was the problem. I grounded the diode with two screwdrivers while wearing rubber gloves to be safe. the warnings on this did the trick as it was the only scary part of the operation.
- the diode was a little hard to spot looking at the schematics, but is is found on the lower right corner of the right side of the panel and easily pulled out and replaced. I tried the microwave again to see if it worked...and it did not. So I confirmed that the magnetron was the issue.
- removing the screws for the magnetron and putting in the replacement was a dead easy and I tried the microwave again before putting cover back on. Worked like a charm. Super easy!

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

discovered upon further inspection the the plastic shaft coming out of the turning motor was melted. Had to stop repair and order that part

Remove from cabinetry, take cover off and had a very difficult time removing the plastic form that has the switched in. Replace the lowest of all the switches, and then again very difficult time getting the plastic form back in. Some of the plastic even broke during the process but not any that could prevent it from working as it did before. I had ordered a fuse, 2 packs of 2 switches as there are 3 switches but only had to use 1 to get it working again. Tested after switch install, put the cover back on and reinstalled in the cabinet.

Replaced Door latch Bracket.
Filed a bit off the bracket connection fingers so to fit into the slot.

Removed M/W oven case/cover. Identified part needed. Found part online with in 2 minutes, ordered new door latch actuator, installed with part arrived within two minutes, reattached case/cover, reinstalled M/W.

hardest part was taking the microwave down off of the wall to gain access to the diode. Thought if was the transformer but ended up being just a blown diode. remove and replace and bench test. that part took 15 minutes . moral of the story don't boil water under the side of the microwave that holds the electric components.

1.ordered the part 2.during wait time for part,i epoxied the broken ear of the door latch bracket back on to the broken part.3.waited 24 hours for epoxy to set,4.installed the repaired part.5.reassembled the microwave and reinstalled in the wall unit.6.days passed and the ordered door latch bracket finally arrived.7.we are using the microwave daily with the repaired door latch bracket,but we will keep the new part in reserve,just in case!JUST CAN NOT DO WITHOUT OUR MICROWAVE!

My wife was pushing a few buttons with her knuckle (hands were full)and the microwave just turned off. Just like we had blown a breaker. First I unpluged it. Then I removed the phillips screws of the front panel, and found and removed the ceramic fuse. 3 days later I received the new fuse in the mail, and put it in. I plugged the microwave back in and it works great.

Placed in micro Great sevice. Thanks

The tip on the end of the latch broke off, so I had to carefully pry it back in without breaking the new piece. Took a few tries, but got it.

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott