KCMS1555SBL1 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

Took microwave out of builtin cabinet with 4 screws.
Put microwave on center island and removed cover.
Tested interlock switch with volt meter and it appeared ok so I put my kit back in box and sent back.
Took out magnetron unit and replace with new part.
Put cover back on and test.
All is working and installed back in cabinet. Two weeks later all still working great.

ordered a new tray

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

The push button door latch had broken on my microwave. After digging into the unit-which was the hardest part, getting the shell off and getting at the control panel, I was able to see an interior latch part that had one side of plastic broken off. 40. repair piece later and I was able to plug that in, put it all back together and it works, although it does not feel that solid or that it will last a lifetime. Glad I was able to fix instead of calling a repair guy.

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

Remove from cabinetry, take cover off and had a very difficult time removing the plastic form that has the switched in. Replace the lowest of all the switches, and then again very difficult time getting the plastic form back in. Some of the plastic even broke during the process but not any that could prevent it from working as it did before. I had ordered a fuse, 2 packs of 2 switches as there are 3 switches but only had to use 1 to get it working again. Tested after switch install, put the cover back on and reinstalled in the cabinet.

Replaced Door latch Bracket.
Filed a bit off the bracket connection fingers so to fit into the slot.

discovered upon further inspection the the plastic shaft coming out of the turning motor was melted. Had to stop repair and order that part

Removed M/W oven case/cover. Identified part needed. Found part online with in 2 minutes, ordered new door latch actuator, installed with part arrived within two minutes, reattached case/cover, reinstalled M/W.

Just took the plate out the packaging & rinsed,dried and put in the oven. I was so happy I found it @partselect online& it came in the next day or two. Will definitely use them again. It was a fraction of the cost from local parts store.

Placed in micro Great sevice. Thanks

It literally took me longer to unpackage the fuse than to install it. I removed the outer shell by unscrewing the five screws, lifted it off and set it aside. The old fuse was readily visible so I pulled it out and put the new one in its place. I set the shell back on and replaced the screws. I plugged it in and ran it for 30 seconds while still in the shop just to make sure that solved the problem and presto - it worked like a charm. A $20 part saved me from having to purchase a new microwave (sadly, I had to break the news to the wife).

Removed the four face plate screws and set it aside. Then I removed the three screws holding the base plate to the wall mounting. Removed the wall plug and lifted the microwave out. I then removed all the screws holding the cover on the microwave and pulled the case to the rear This left the door latch accessible. Since the old latch had broken and fallen off, I just had to figure how the new one was to be installed This was very simple to figure out and it took me about five seconds to put the new one in.. Be careful when installing because all the parts are plastic and susceptible to breakage. I then reinstalled the microwave cover and after plugging it in ,pushed it into the wall cavity and put all the screws in to hold the oven in place. I next installed the face plate and every thing was in working order, A very simple project.

Well, first of all I luckily picked your website after it had broken that day, got all the info, ordered that day, and got it the NEXT day and my husband fixed it that day. VOILA!! That may never happen again, but that was the easiest thing we have ever done. You can better bet we will be ordering from this website again,as well as letting others know about it. Very impressed, and yes, this is real.

remove 4 screws from top, front louvered panel snaps out. remove 1 screw from top of keypad, keypad pivot's forward and can be removed. There is a white mounting bracket inside left. Remove two screws, one top and one bottom, bracket lifts up and out. 3 sets wires are attached, mark them with masking tape, top, center, bottom and pull out plugs. They can only attach one way. Using a very small screw tip, lift plastic latch from switch, it rotates out and is removed from the pivot pin. reassemble in reverse order after switches are replaced