KCMS2055SSS1 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

The push button door latch had broken on my microwave. After digging into the unit-which was the hardest part, getting the shell off and getting at the control panel, I was able to see an interior latch part that had one side of plastic broken off. 40. repair piece later and I was able to plug that in, put it all back together and it works, although it does not feel that solid or that it will last a lifetime. Glad I was able to fix instead of calling a repair guy.

Unplug microwave. Remove the cover(mine had six screws- including 4 special screws I was able to remove the special screws with pliers. Remove the broken latch. Then you must take out the two screws which hold plastic plate that has a bunch of wires connected to it. Otherwise you can’t install the new latch without breaking the side “axle” of the latch. Once you remove the plastic plate the new latch will snap right into place. Reinstall the plastic plate w the screws and you are good to go. Note of caution. The micro cover edges are as sharp as a knife. Use gloves!

removed a dozen screws-discarded large cap-replaced diode-replaced a dozen screws(took longer to replace them than remove for some unknown reason). Microwave now works(wife happy).

Remove outside cover of microwave.Note that there are 3 unique security screws that you will need a special screwdriver to remove. There is a YouTube video that shows how to install new part. Although this was a lot cheaper than buying a new microwave the cost of $57.00 plus shipping for this 3 inch plastic part was ridiculously expensive.

The instructions on the website were incredibly easy and I saved myself a lot of headache by using this site.

-it was built in unit - so I needed to pull the decorative grill from around the outside to remove it from the wall
- removing the back of the case involved removing phillips head screws from along the side and back of the unit. the only issue I encountered on removing screws was the fact that the "torx / star" screws could not be fit with the wrench that I had (they had a pin in the center that would not allow the wrench to fit into the star). However, a pair of pliers was handy and they were removed just easily.
- I had ordered both the high voltage diode and magnetron because I didn't know which item was the problem. I grounded the diode with two screwdrivers while wearing rubber gloves to be safe. the warnings on this did the trick as it was the only scary part of the operation.
- the diode was a little hard to spot looking at the schematics, but is is found on the lower right corner of the right side of the panel and easily pulled out and replaced. I tried the microwave again to see if it worked...and it did not. So I confirmed that the magnetron was the issue.
- removing the screws for the magnetron and putting in the replacement was a dead easy and I tried the microwave again before putting cover back on. Worked like a charm. Super easy!

Took microwave out of builtin cabinet with 4 screws.
Put microwave on center island and removed cover.
Tested interlock switch with volt meter and it appeared ok so I put my kit back in box and sent back.
Took out magnetron unit and replace with new part.
Put cover back on and test.
All is working and installed back in cabinet. Two weeks later all still working great.

I had to unmount the over-the-range microwave oven to be able to gain access to the interior of the oven. Complicating removal (and re-installation) was the fact that there is a "pot-filler" faucet installed directly underneath the oven. In retrospect, I should've removed the faucet before doing the repair, but "c'est la vie."

After I got the microwave down, removing the case was also "interesting." I get bonus points for the fact that the previous owner must've had to replace the same diode before - and then re-assembled the microwave case incorrectly - thereby adding to the confusion (BTW, the service manual that I found online said nothing about how to remove the oven's case).

To remove the case, undo all the screws holding it on, and then rotate the case upwards from the back while also pulling the case backwards. There are crimped folds on the inside of the case that mate with the back edges of the front of the oven's chassis, and these folds have to be unclipped from the chassis in order to remove the case.

Replacing the diode itself was the easiest part of the job. The two connectors on the diode are of different types, making it impossible to install the diode with the wrong polarity.

BTW, the diode that had failed was not an OEM diode; I suspect it was a generic component that had been installed by a repairman sometime between 2004-2008 (when our home's original owners still owned the home). On the other hand, the new diode from PartSelect is an OEM part (it came packaged in a sealed Whirlpool bag).

The fact that the oven had stopped heating indicated that it was either the high-voltage diode or the magnetron that had failed. Since a replacement diode costs ~ 1/10th as much as a replacement magnetron, I figured it made sense to replace the cheaper part first. Fortunately, this fixed the problem.

One last thing: I tried testing both the old and new diodes for conductivity and polarity using my volt-ohm meter (VOM), but I was unable to get either diode to "turn on," even though my VOM is powered by a 9-v battery, and I used the 2-Mohm range setting. I guess the test voltage of my el-cheapo VOM isn't high enough to exceed the diode's threshold voltage, (even though I have successfully used this same VOM to test low-voltage diodes).

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

Remove from cabinetry, take cover off and had a very difficult time removing the plastic form that has the switched in. Replace the lowest of all the switches, and then again very difficult time getting the plastic form back in. Some of the plastic even broke during the process but not any that could prevent it from working as it did before. I had ordered a fuse, 2 packs of 2 switches as there are 3 switches but only had to use 1 to get it working again. Tested after switch install, put the cover back on and reinstalled in the cabinet.

Replaced Door latch Bracket.
Filed a bit off the bracket connection fingers so to fit into the slot.

Removed M/W oven case/cover. Identified part needed. Found part online with in 2 minutes, ordered new door latch actuator, installed with part arrived within two minutes, reattached case/cover, reinstalled M/W.

1. Remove the trim frame off of the front of the cabinet (4 Phillips screws). At this point, take glass plate and turntable frame out of unit. 2. Slightly lift the unit off the cabinet frame (which is attached to the cabinet) so the feet on the microwave allow the unit to clear the frame and then remove microwave from the cabinet. 3. Once slightly removed from the cabinet, unplug the unit before completely removing it from cabinet. 4. Take 2 Phillips screws out of the side panels. 5. Take about 6-7 T20 Star Pin screws out of the back of the panel. (This may require you to purchase this special tip if you don't have it in your toolbox). 6. Slide the microwave cabinet toward the rear of the unit (the front portion clips into the frame ... don't try prying it off because you'll damage the unit). 7. Completely remove the microwave cabinet housing. 8. Be careful not to damage or catch any internal wiring inside the unit while the cover is off. 9. Turn unit on it's back and remove 4-5 Phillips screws holding the bottom cover in place. Remove bottom cover. 10. Now notice that the turntable motor is completely exposed. 11. Remove the wiring harness from the motor (notice which connection clip has the black wire). 12. Remove the one Phillips screw holding the motor to the frame. 13. Clean around the area in case food spills may have gotten into the area. 14. Insert new motor, put Phillips screw back in and attach power connection. 15. From this point on, just reverse steps to re-assemble microwave and put back in cabinet. 16. Test new turntable motor. 17. Enjoy the smile from your wife because she can now use the microwave!

The tip on the end of the latch broke off, so I had to carefully pry it back in without breaking the new piece. Took a few tries, but got it.

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott

My wife was pushing a few buttons with her knuckle (hands were full)and the microwave just turned off. Just like we had blown a breaker. First I unpluged it. Then I removed the phillips screws of the front panel, and found and removed the ceramic fuse. 3 days later I received the new fuse in the mail, and put it in. I plugged the microwave back in and it works great.