YKCMS145JBT0 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

Watched a you tube video prior to installing new switch. Followed the video which gave me confidence i was up to the task. After removing the touch pad I found my design was not exactly like the you tube model but I found the defective switch, replaced it and put the microwave back together. Works great. Again watch the videos

Using fingers, the old turntable roller guide was pulled up off the motor shaft. The plastic roller guide shaft coupler was found to be broken, allowing the motor shaft to spin without turning the roller guide. The hole in the floor of the oven was inspected, and no broken pieces were found which could interfere with the new roller guide. The new roller guide was then gently pressed down over the motor shaft. Very easy.

Remove from cabinetry, take cover off and had a very difficult time removing the plastic form that has the switched in. Replace the lowest of all the switches, and then again very difficult time getting the plastic form back in. Some of the plastic even broke during the process but not any that could prevent it from working as it did before. I had ordered a fuse, 2 packs of 2 switches as there are 3 switches but only had to use 1 to get it working again. Tested after switch install, put the cover back on and reinstalled in the cabinet.

took out plastic piece under plate (that was broken) and placed new one in the hole. No tools req'd. Works like new.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

removed microwave cover screws, unplugged motor, screwed on new one

1. Remove the trim frame off of the front of the cabinet (4 Phillips screws). At this point, take glass plate and turntable frame out of unit. 2. Slightly lift the unit off the cabinet frame (which is attached to the cabinet) so the feet on the microwave allow the unit to clear the frame and then remove microwave from the cabinet. 3. Once slightly removed from the cabinet, unplug the unit before completely removing it from cabinet. 4. Take 2 Phillips screws out of the side panels. 5. Take about 6-7 T20 Star Pin screws out of the back of the panel. (This may require you to purchase this special tip if you don't have it in your toolbox). 6. Slide the microwave cabinet toward the rear of the unit (the front portion clips into the frame ... don't try prying it off because you'll damage the unit). 7. Completely remove the microwave cabinet housing. 8. Be careful not to damage or catch any internal wiring inside the unit while the cover is off. 9. Turn unit on it's back and remove 4-5 Phillips screws holding the bottom cover in place. Remove bottom cover. 10. Now notice that the turntable motor is completely exposed. 11. Remove the wiring harness from the motor (notice which connection clip has the black wire). 12. Remove the one Phillips screw holding the motor to the frame. 13. Clean around the area in case food spills may have gotten into the area. 14. Insert new motor, put Phillips screw back in and attach power connection. 15. From this point on, just reverse steps to re-assemble microwave and put back in cabinet. 16. Test new turntable motor. 17. Enjoy the smile from your wife because she can now use the microwave!

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

I called to make sure I was replacing the correct part. I paid over the phone and it came the next day. Very very easy process.

I started by calling a reputable service company to diagnose my problem. The repair tech told me it was the magnetron and it was a "very difficult" repair that required two people because the over-the-range unit needed to be taken down. I asked for a detailed estimate. He quoted $550 including parts and labor. After he left, I researched the part costs on this site and realized his costs were very inflated. I purchased the magnetron for $220. It arrived at my door two days later. Installation was very easy. First, I unplugged the unit. Then, while my wife was making sure it did not fall off the wall bracket, I unscrewed the two mounting screws from the top of the cabinet. I lifted the unit down from the wall and set it on the kitchen counter. The shell needed removed from the microwave which involved about 20 screws. This provided access to the magnetron on top. The magnetron is secured by five screws and a plug. I unplugged it, unscrewed it, and removed the old part. Then, I installed the new magnetron, and tested the microwave to make sure this did the trick. It worked. I put the outer shell back on the microwave and cleaned the microwave. (This is a great opportunity to clean the areas you do not typically see!). I then remounted the unit and plugged it back in. Saved myself a bit of money so I took the family out to dinner and a movie to celebrate. Microwave was in working order for heating up left overs the next day! Thank you!!!

All the electrics worked on Amana microwave EXCEPT for the cooking function. Inspected the control board and found the upper switch on the door interlock was burnt. Installed new switch in minutes and everything now works fine. Unfortunately, had to purchase expensive two switch "kit" although only one switch was kaput. PartsSelect mailing was SUPER fast. Thanks for looking, Scott

My wife was pushing a few buttons with her knuckle (hands were full)and the microwave just turned off. Just like we had blown a breaker. First I unpluged it. Then I removed the phillips screws of the front panel, and found and removed the ceramic fuse. 3 days later I received the new fuse in the mail, and put it in. I plugged the microwave back in and it works great.

It literally took me longer to unpackage the fuse than to install it. I removed the outer shell by unscrewing the five screws, lifted it off and set it aside. The old fuse was readily visible so I pulled it out and put the new one in its place. I set the shell back on and replaced the screws. I plugged it in and ran it for 30 seconds while still in the shop just to make sure that solved the problem and presto - it worked like a charm. A $20 part saved me from having to purchase a new microwave (sadly, I had to break the news to the wife).

Replaced the diode (aka wire-vltge) in the HV circuit after removing cabinet cover using both the secure torx screw drvr & phillips head screw drvr. The hardest part of the job was finding the secure torx nut drvr tool on the internet & purchasing same.