KHMS147HBL1 KitchenAid Microwave - Instructions

First I removed the 2 old screws that had the broken hinge peices in it. The I open the microwave door, snapped in the new peice and put in the two new screws. That was all it took!

KitchenAid Microwave [Model: KHMS 145 JBS-0]Door Handle Repair
Tools and Parts
• Door Handle [Part # PS390101]
• Putty Knife
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Tray (cup) for parts during disassembly/reassembly (3 screws on door; 2 screws on handle; spacer on top-door edge).
Instructions
• Preparation
o Disassembly can be managed with the door mounted on the unit. The handle is attached by 2-screws that can be accessed only by separating the outer/inner door panels.
o Before starting the project, watch the Youtube.com video for a GE Microwave, which is the most applicable video for removing the collar [i.e., plastic bezel around the viewing window on the inner door) and for separating the outer/inner door panels ].

• Remove the collar
Photo 1: Inner-side clip (bottom of collar) used on
3-sides of the collar (top edge is a spacer) Photo 2: Hinge side clip (right edge)

o As indicated in the video, small clips are on the inner-side of the collar on 3-sides (top, bottom, and open-door edge).
o The clips are on the outside of the collar for the door-hinge side.
o These clips are small and somewhat fragile – once a few are popped, finger pressure will generally pop the remaining clips.


• Separate the outer/inner door panels

Photo shows the inner/outer doors separated, and the 3-screws removed.
o Remove the 3-screws on the door edge before separating the outer door panel.
o There is a plastic spacer on the top, outside edge of the door that is not cemented. Remove the spacer after separating the door panels.
o Use a putty knife to pop the clips for the outer-door panel around the top, bottom, and open-door sides.
o The top door corner (the spacer edge) is tight and should be gently pushed back.
o The outer door panel will remain attached on the hinged edge and function like a second door – move gently.
o The viewing glass is clamped in place; but, handle with caution.

• Remove the Door Handle
o With the outer/inner panels separated, remove the two screws holding the handle and remove the handle.
o Retain the screws for later use.

• Install the new Door Handle
o Reuse the original screws (Note, [Part # W10841091 – screw] is a different thread, and is not self-tapping)
o The door-handle screw holes are not tapped; so insert the old screws in the handle to tap before installing the handle, leaving approximately 1/8 - 3/16” exposed.
o Remove the screws and reuse to install the handle.


Comparison of 2-original screws vs. replacement screw (note thread gauge differences).
• Reinstall the Outer Door Panel
o Align the spacer with the inner-panel edge in the upper corner.
o Close the outer panel, gently snapping the clips into place.
o Reinstall the 3-screws on the door edge.

• Reinstall the Collar
o Snap the hinge side in place.
o Gently snap the remaining sides in place

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

I ordered the part according to the Model number, inserted the part very easily, (and I am soooo challenged in that area) and now it turns again. :)

replace one of the four rack supports which was melting

This is not easy to do. I done it before to replace a broken window and it was a real bitch. I considered buying a new door rather then do it again.All I wanted to do was tighten two screws that hold the handle.
I used the advice found on your web site from a person who did it using quarters and putty knifes to remove the choke and the door insert. Sounded silly but it works like a charm. I advise anyone who needs to do this repair to use that info on your web site. It will save lots of frustration. Be sure to have plenty of quarters and a few pennies.

I turned off the power to the oven at the breaker. I then removed the side trim pieces by removing the screws located behind the lower oven door. I removed the plastic trim pieces above and below the microwave oven and removed the control panel and slid it into the opening above the microwave. I located the two screws securing the microwave into the frame and began sliding it out. I had to disconnect a small wiring harness and two wires from the microwave that were attached inside the opening above the microwave. The microwave section was the easily slid out, turned on it's side where the turntable motor was accessed by removing the access panel. I pulled the old motor, checked resistance and it matched the new motor. I then checked the old motor by applying 120V to it and it ran FINE! I thought I had the wrong part, but decided to install the new motor anyway. I did, secured the access panel and replaced the microwave in the frame. I reconnected the wires and secured the control panel and tested the microwave...and the turntable works!

the burn thru was probably because stirrer motor was not turning, Unplug the microwave .freed the motor up bu manually turning. temporary fix. The cover is held up with small push pin clips. Just pry the cover off with a screw driver or other flat tool. Scrape offf the old silicone. There are two covers in the Kit. you just need 1. Remove the old clips for the roof of the microwave, put a bead of silicone on the new cover where the old was and secure the new cover with the push pins into the clips .

I used a Google search to show how to access the area behind the front panel. There was a folded paper copy with a schematic and wiring diagram in that space.Then I used a multi-meter to determine which of the THREE micro-switches was causing the problem. I called your help line and ordered a replacement switch. The switch was delayed in transit so your agent credited me with the cost of shipping.

When the part arrived, it had three terminals instead of two as shown in the on-line picture but that did not cause any difficulty in using it. It took about 20 minutes to remove and replace the old switch.

All seems to be working well now.

Finding which of the THREE switches was the problem was the most difficult part of the repair. All three "clicked" but the defective one did not click as easily. It needed to be depressed more than the door latch can would provide. Old age?

Take off top facing over microwave using screwdriver also protection plate for diode and capaitor. Disconnect diode from frame, bracket to capacitor then remove, disconnect wires leaving diode on capacitor for right connection, replace, rewire done.

The old grill had already been removed so the new one fit right in and it was only a matter of tightening the 2 screws to hold the new one in place. Simple. Looks great. No one will ever know it was broken.

Very easy and fast. I wished that I could just replace the panel door instead of cleaning it everytime. It was easier and quicker to replace the door than it was to clean it.

Removed the microwave from above the oven by loosening the two screws above the microwave. As the unit tilted outward lifted up and the whole unit came out all the time feeding the power cord through the cutout for the power cord. After it was out removed the cover and identified the capacitor and made sure it was discharged and removed and replaced the diode. tested before reinstalling and it heated up just fine. Reversed order and reinstalled . Very easy job maybe a second hand to help fish the power cord when installing and removing.

Remove “over the stove” unit. Remove unit shell case. Unscrew and disconnect diode. Replace diode. Re-assemble. Put unit back in place.

Cracked panel door cover

Really easy I just replace the panel door. It was easier and quicker to replace the door than it was to clean it.