8504428390 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

Unplug the unit before servicing. Need phillips screwdriver. Open door. Use step ladder to access and remove 2 small screws from top of the room air diffuser at top of unit. Slide diffuser slightly to the left to align the diffuser's plastic tab on the left side to rotate toward you. (The wires for the front control panel are at the far left side of this difuser, but difuser is slotted for easy removal). Once the difuser is removed you will see 1 screw at the top that secures the pannel cover on the left side of the unit. Remove screw and slide this panel slightly up and out. This exposes the plastic frame that holds the upper and lower door switches. To locate the door switches and observe how they work, close and open the door and watch the door (bayonets) open and close the micro switches. Do the (red) buttons on top of the switches move up and down when the door bayonets push and release? If the buttons do not "pop" up when opened the switch is defective. The switch frame is secured with 2 screws. Remove screws and rotate the unit out for easy access to the micro switch(s). The internal (spring?) on my unit that is suposed to allow the red (visible) button on top of the switch to "pop" up when the door is opened was broken. Carefully pry the switch outward while being careful to lift the plastic holder-piece that holds the switch in place. Be careful, there is a small pin on the frame, so rotate the switch OUT toward you while lifting (carefully) the plastic holder-piece (you will see it on top of the switch). You can use an ohm meter to test the continuity of the switches. But if the buttons don't "pop" they are defective. Replace switch and reassemble.

Purchased 2 piece broiler pan from this site

Watched a couple of repair videos on Youtube by searching for the model number. Found out what to do in order not to get shocked by the powerful capacitor.
Ordered the two switches (To be sure, I could have ordered a third switch as suggested in the videos.)
Bought a tamper-proof star bit to get the cover off. Followed the directions to replace the switches. - I broke the harness and had to use some super glue, but it's all good. I should have removed the harness instead of trying to get a switch out while it was still in place.
It's all back together, and the wife is happy!!

Unscrew the old one, pull it out, along with a few inches of wire. Use a couple of clothes pins to keep the wire escaping back behind the oven as you unhook them from the damaged (bad) one. Then reverse the process with the new one. No big deal. Works great now and the wife is happy.

I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model

After 26 years, the element burned out. I followed the diagrams on this website. Basically, I took out the screws that hold the element in place and carefully pulled the old element forward. The wires had fittings that slipped off the old element (with a little help from the wrench.) When the wires were disconnected, I clipped the adjustable wrench on the one of them to make sure they didn't slip back through the holes in the back of the oven. The old fittings slipped right onto the new element (couple of taps with a small hammer to get them all the way on). Them I slipped the wires back through the holes and put the two small screws in the plate at the back of the element. Quite simple, even for a guy with four thumbs.

Turned off breaker, verified that the breaker controlled the oven and was actually off.
This is important since you can still get a shock from leaks in the neutral side that may surprize you if you ground one side. Also some breakers can be mislabeled on older homes.
I removed the two screws holding the element to the back of the oven phillips #1 screw driver.
I carefully guided the wires and attached terminals out of the recess until
I had about 5 Inches of wire inside the oven exposed. Just be patient and careful, they will come out.
I then unpluged the wires from the old element and attached a binder clip to the ends so they could not slip back into the oven shell. Clothes pins are also a good choice or some duct tape.
I thoroughly cleaned the oven.
I then installed the wire terminals to the new element and reversed the removal procedure.
I then verified function and temperature of the oven settings.
It took me 10 minutes not including oven cleaning time.

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Removed some cosmetic panels. Removed the assembly with micro switches. Examined the faulty switch by checking the clicking action of switch. Two others were ok by this method. Replaced the switch with new one. Works fine so far. Thanks to web site and YouTube videos.

I went to LG website enter model number and was given a list of parts that need to be replaced with a percentage of which part fails the most. I order micro switch PS3522738 which arrived and PS3529293 was backordered. I installed the one that arrived. The microwave worked briefly. I reordered and waited for both switches to arrive and installed both. The microwave still doesn't work.

Well, when you put the back cover on and screw it down make sure you have nothing touching the white wire leading to the oven light. I did and it blew the push switch when I threw the 220 breaker. Actually, the light was on when I came in the room, but when I pushed the switch on the front panel it sparked in the rear and popped the breaker. Then I saw the short and when I tested the switch it would not click. The install was fine.

Take cover off microwave. Check door switches to determine which one was faulty.Remove and replace faulty switch.

Remove to screws pull old element out, unplugged old element and plugged new element in. Replace screws and baked a cake

Removed the old element and replaced it with the new element. Very straight forward

i unplugged the unit,unscrewed the outer shell so that all the wiring and internal components were visible.starting at the first of three micro switches i removed the slip on terminals installed the alligator clips too the wires so the switch would now be bypassed.i made sure the wires and clips were not touching anything plugged unit in and it worked.i then installed the new switch and closed up the outer shell