79049612318 Kenmore Microwave - Instructions

Installation of the temparature sensor, one of the technician recommended parts took no time, just two screws and a snap off/snap on part. It did not fix the problem. I then replaced the main control panel, which requires more work, but didn't solce the ussue either. I then replaced the thermal fuse, which wasn't mentioned by tech support, and required much more disassebly of the top panels of the stove, with still no fix to the problem. I am waiting to replace the thermostat heat sensor unit, the only other part in the circuit controlling power supply, requiring removal of the stove top again,

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

Disconnected the power cord, removed the outer cover, shorted the two terminals of the high voltage capacitor with the blade of a screw driver with well insulated handle (very important to prevent a bad shock!!),;removed the plastic fan housing for access to the grounding screw and capacitor housing, installed the new capacitor with the reverse of the above steps (but don't reconnect the power cord yet!!}
Now, the most important step of all, reach inside the oven and remove the mica wave guide cover, clean the oven walls thoroughly and clean the inside of the wave guide with clean cloth and water, sand to bare metal any carburized spots on the exit of the wave guide, cut out any carburized spots on the mica cover, replace the clean cover , or order a new one if necessary. It is OK to use the microwave without the cover while waiting for shipment of the replacement mica cover, but be absolutely sure there will be no food spatters on or near the wave guide opening.

Remove microwave from wall, removed outer cover which allowed access behind the control panel, was then able to take out the broken lever and with a little maneuvering was able to replace it with the new one. The whole process took less than an hour and was easy to accomplish.

Removed two screws that are attached to handle then removed four screws from bottom edge of oven door. I was then able to remove the outer door glass,this gave me access to the three inner glasses. After removing the retainer for the glass assembly,I was able to remove all three and replace the inner one.I reversed this proceedure to reassemble.

removed the screws holding the front part of the door and from there worked my way, untill the third glass.
It took a couple hours, my first time,. Overall easy,

on the back side of the wall oven the sensor wire was ziptied tight. we had to totally pull oven out of its wall space, remove back panel, unhook zip tie, feed through sensor hole around insulation, connect and then replace back and return and relevel the oven. I have

This is an OTR microwave oven, needs to be removed to diagnose problem. I did not diagnose problem properly, I searched online for possible causes, read that (99%)percent of the time the interlock switch was bad and replacement should solve my problem. It was also stated to be an easy fix,15- 45 minutes depending on ability. I ordered the relay switch. Took the oven down then removed outer shell. With my multimeter I began to test, fuses(2), interlock switches(3)and transformer. 3 interlock switches were ok, fuses were fine, and had power to the transformer, meter could not read output of transformer because of high voltage, (2300v). I'm down to magnetron (about a hundred bucks) or the touch pad/ circuit board. I have a countertop micro that I'm putting in place of the OTR. As far as Partselect, my item was shipped and delivered on time, instructions for changing that part was quite accurate. Would order from here again, just do my homework first.

0. Turn off breaker to oven
1 Remove two screws holding oven into enclosure.
2. Remove trim piece from bottom.
3. Open oven door, and engage part on hinge which keeps door from closing all the way. Now, door can be lifted and removed, set aside.
4. Slide oven out. This is very heavy, and it's best to have two people as well as something slightly lower than the oven to put it on, I used a chair.
5. Remove microwave trim, 4 screws.
6. Remove baffle which protects microwave power cord.
7. Loosen 4 screws from bottom of microwave. I used a Screwdriver bit with a pliers, as there isn't much room. Slide microwave forward or back, and microwave can be lifted from oven.
8. Remove 4 screws on side, 2 security Star screws on bottom of back, and 3 regular screws on back.
9. Remove top heat shield, and top/sides cover. Danger, do not plug in microwave with top/side cover missing. Also, capacitor on right/back may hold dangerous voltages, short the terminals using well-insulated tool. There is a bleed resistor which is supposed to do this, but you can never be too careful.
10. Open microwave drawer. Unscrew the front control panel from the inside. Remove plastic part the door open button usually moves, the part needs to be pulled to the left side to be removed. Take a picture of the wires attached to the switches on the latch plate, so you put them back correctly.
11. Remove wire connectors from switches. These connectors have a retaining feature, if you push the retaining feature, it doesn't take too much force to remove it. There are 6 wires. Remove the latch plate, there may be a screw or two.
12. Take note of which switches are normally own and normally closed. They have to go back the same way. I mainly took out the latch plate because the switches stopped working, a couple had welded themselves together internally. But, I had to replace the latch plate because I improperly removed the switches and broke the plate. The switches are held in place by a pin through the switch, a couple of static parts from the latch plate, and a tab which sticks up from the bottom of the latch plate. The pin is very fragile. Depress the tan from the bottom of the latch plate, and the switch should rotate on the pin. Do not release the tab until the such has rotated past it. Now, you can lift the switch.
13. Reverse all of these steps with the new patch plate to put everything back together. You might want to test the microwave before reattaching it to the oven.
14. To put the oven back into the cavity, it's best to lean the back edge over the bottom of the cavity, then lift the oven from the front and slide it in.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Watching the video showed an easy, unscrew and screw back on process while connecting the wires back. It was really that simple. Once it was complete (not even 10mins), plugged it back in, and its been working great since.

Removed unit from above stove removed outer housing, interior shield and tested the 4 door relays. One was not working. Replaced parts and re installed unit over stove.

I purchased one relay switch (there are three) took one out one by one and replced it with the new one and tested it each time until it worked. Super easy and saved me hundreds of dollars by doing this myself.

If you do not intend to take apart the oven door to clean the interior glass, I would recommend you use a clamp to hold the handle and oven door tightly together while you replace the screw. There is a spacer between the back and front panels which could otherwise be shifted out of position. I used a screw extractor to remove the damaged screw and then installed the replacement. Wish all appliance repairs were this easy!

Much like the other post: 1. Removw vent case on top (3 screws) 2. Remove cover with control buttons (1 screw). 3. Removed bottom relay switch and replaced. Tight working space so be patient. Took 15 minutes Needle nose pliers used to crimp connector onto switch