JMV9196CB0 Jenn-Air Microwave - Instructions

Ordered top & bottom micro-switches and mounting plate parts. Internet reviews could not find specifics if the issue was due to a top/bottom or combination of micro-switch or mounting plate failure. Pulled the plug. Removed the top vent assembly cover held in by 2 Phillips screws inside the vent. Removed the control panel held in by 1 Phillip screw at the top vent assembly area. Lifted control panel upward to release the catch and moved it off to the side - didn't disconnect any leads. Used a Torx bit to remove the door switch mounting plates at the front and pulled the plates through the opening from the control panel. Documented the wire color code connections, the top plate uses 2 micro's with one using both the closed & open contact. Installed the respective micros on the mounting plates and worked backwards with the wiring and removal steps. Once completed, the open/close sensing has worked every time.

Unless you have a very comfortable background with electronics and electricity, I don't necessarily recommend taking apart a microwave. If you are very handy and are going to be VERY cautious to follow the rules of discharging caps and testing voltages before moving forward, then go for it. That said, I took the microwave off and apart. Not knowing where to find the parts, I was fortunate that the installer put the instruction book for the microwave inside the front vent slot above the touchpad for reference. it details the location of every part and it tells you very clearly what each part you test should show specific to this microwave on your multimeter. Find this guide online if you don't have it. Turn on the microwave for 20 seconds with a glass of water to make sure it's not heating - that with the noise means it's eeither the magnetron, cap, or diode. Read the notes on this site for all of the basic things to look for with the magnetron, diode, and capacitor. Once comfortable with the guide, locations of those devices, and how to test, then take it down and apart. Unfortunately, I didn't do all those things in that order, and it only wasted a lot of time trying to find the parts. Once I found the parts and put all the screws and covers back for all the areas that didn't need to be accessed for the repair, testing went quickly. The diode was bad. Ordered a new one and had it in 3 days or so. That means your microwave will be apart and sitting somewhere for a little while until you get the part and have time to repair it. Putting the diode back isn't too bad. Reassemble the microwave and put it back up again. If i had to do it again, it would take me 20 to 30 minutes once the microwave was down and on a table. Also, I used some bricks with towels over them or you could use some sawhorses to keep the microwave elevated so you can plug it in and run it after installing the new component. Again, make sure you discharge the cap before touching anything again even if you didn't run it, but just plugged it in.

I turn off the income electricity by shutting down the corresponding circuit breaker. Then, I removed the control panel from the microwave which gave me access to the capacitor and adjacent diode. After that i unscrewed the defective diode and replaced it with the new one and BINGO!

Removed top vent panel....black plastic runs the length of the microwave....3 Phillips screws. Removed front right panel one Phillip screw on top right. Lift up to remove lifts off the catches. Unplug some of plug connectors on the back of the control circuit board to have room to swing it out of the way to gain access to the interlock switches. Take pictures of all disconnections and wire connectors removed from switches. There or two interlock banks of switches my problem was the top one. Remove the switch bracket held in with one star drive screw and a plastic catch on the switch bracket actuator...there is a slot in the frame the actuator slides into. Replace switches and reverse procedure to reassemble.

Replaced both switches on the top door latch. Diagram shows the two switches on the lower latch? No success. Still had same message on the display. Replaced lower switch, fixed the issue.

Read some instructions and easily found the fuse. Replaced it. Still didn't work. Took control panel off to check door switches. Nothing I read mentioned a second fuse. Tested and it to had blown. Ordered another one. Popped them in. Done.

Remove two screws from Vent Grille, one on either side, and remove one screw inside Vent Grille on right side. Pull Vent Grille off exposing the two Charcoal filters. Remove the two Charcoal filters by hand and replace with new ones. Reinstall the Vent Grille and tighten screws. That's it. I'm not handy (ask my wife) and if I can do it so can you.

issues started when door opened light would flicker then come on disassembled checked switches with a meter determined switch was faulty figured I'm in here replace them all because if one fails others will follow be careful removing actuator assembly plastic is brittle (remember this is above the stove subject to heating and cooling) plastic isn't as pliable installed all the switches perfecto oh by the way disassembled the faulty switch found contacts had arced from opening door while microwave is running use the buttons to stop will eliminate further issues

Whirlpool Microwave was purchased as used item, so installation in a new location required purchase of mounting template, wall bracket, mounting hardware. Granite backsplash cut out using wet/dry diamond blade and Ryobi 6.5 inch saw. Microwave exhaust fan removed and rotated for upward exhaust using modified exhaust plenum from existing stove exhaust hood. Installation of Microwave was the simplest part of the job. All mounting materials worked as required. A list of the materials provided in the hardware mount kit would be helpful, I would not have had to order the top mount screws separately if it was clear that they were included in the kit. Otherwise, no complaints.

Remove top grill assembly and replaced filters,parts were delivered on time and fit as expected, Job well done!

BEWARE: KMHS120ESS takes two charcoal filters. This site doesn't tell you that! I only figured it out after ordering one, receiving it, and removing the vent cover to replace it. So then I had to order another one and pay for shipping a second time (which cost almost as much as the filter itself). C'mon PartSelect, why are these not sold in a pair?

I looked up a YouTube video of someone with a similar over the oven microwave. That helped me get into the area behind the control panel where the door switches are. I checked the springs and the cam rocker? The thing that actually hits the button on the switch when the door closes. They were in good condition so I assumed the door switch was bad. There are two so I just purchased one figuring (hoping) that only one was bad. And lo and behold only one was bad. Bing bam boom. Put it all back together and I'm set. Not too difficult. Took a week of work because it takes like 50 days to ship. My kitchen looked like a hurricane after image because of all the parts scattered everywhere.

Instead of telling you, i have question do you have any instructions on how to do the repair. It would have helped save time on the repair.

This job took longer then it should have, becasue I did not start right in the begining. I did figure it out quickly after the wrong start.

You were a big help in picking the right part to correct the problem. You should be able to help with the repair. Thank You

Followed instruction already on your website

This site was correct in description of what was causing the problem.
I found broken white plastic parts in base of microwave, found they came from switch holder interlock support. Only reason it took me as long as it did is I did not make a diagram of the wires that I had removed.( would help to have easy access to wiring diagrams or have them on the internet ) But on the internet I found a Video by repairclinic.com the photo in the video pointed me in the right direction and allowed me to get my wiring in order the microwave then started up and runs correctly. As to the plastic parts found in the base of the unit, this unit was a floor model and probably had the door opened and slammed shut many times, breaking the Top interlock. Thanks to this site