JE2160C General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Remove bezel (4 Phillips sheet metal screws). Pull out unit and unplug from wall. Remove three sided steel cover (T15 or T20 safty bit required). Unclip double wire plug from base of lamp. Unclip and pull up on the lamp/bracket - discard. Push down new lamp/bracket, plug in wire socket to base of lamp/bracket. Replace steel cover and 4 'safety headed screws'. Lift unit, replug into wall socket. Insert into wall. Replace bezel and 4 Phillips sheet metal screws. Without the special "safety screw bit", this repair is impossible.

Remove the Glass rotating tray and replace the guide

ordered the wrong part, (my mistake) new part took about 5 mins. no problem.

I determined that one of the 4 micro switches that interface with the door was faulty. Ordered that part and replaced it. Had to remove the cover and front control panel (without removing any connections. Two philips screws hold the limit switch assembly to the bracket. After removing those screws, twist the whole switch assembly clockwise around the mounting frame and now you can remove the defective micro switch and replace it with a new one. This works for any of the 4 switches.

Was sent the wrong part but wanted a pizza so I installed it anyway and now the turntable turns a 6 rpm instead of 3 rpm. I figured that the part I ordered was no longer available and that was the best you could do for a replacement part. Replacement was easy- removed panel from bottom of microwave and filed the sharp edges from the side cutters, remove the one motor screw and motor. swapped the plug over and installed the new part. Replaced bottom panel, plugged in and cooked a pizza.

Ordering was simple, had pictures with descriptions so you have no problem finding the right part. Receive 3rd day after ordering. Motor Replacement was ever easy, remove screws holding bottom plate, unplug failed moter, remove mounting screws, remove failed motor - Install new motor and screws, plug in power cable - replace bottom pan, job done. As a side note, the original moter was 2-watts the replacement motor was 3-watts, more power means better motor, and this motor runs very quiet. Totally satisified.

Simply replaaced broken cooking tray

First you have to get the "security screws" out with a pliers or vise grips then it was a snap, just replace the screws with 1/4 drive screws for the next time you have to get in there !

Simply remove the cover after unplugging the Microwave. The light is attached to a bracket and unplugs from the electrical system and then pops out. Replace with the new bulb and bracket, reattach the electrical connection and replace the cover. Less than 15 minutes. Just need a special star screwdriver bit with a hole in the middle to remove and replace the screws holding the cover to the frame.

just placed it on the wheel

I looked at some general Microwave repair videos to gain confidence. Took off the cover, tested fuse, and found it was good. Tested heat sensor and found it was bad. You just remove the sensor from the plastic clip and wires. the wire connections have tabs. Push down on the tabs to slide out the wire. Found instructions inside the cover in an envelope that described how to access the Turntable motor. Snipped metal tabs and removed a screw to access and remove the motor. Ordered parts and installed in reverse order. After a week the microwave still works great.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!

First remove tamper proof screws with vise - grips. Unplug capacitor ground out one side to discharge. Trouble shooting guide in a envelope in microwave, read it and did what it said. If 20 amp fuse is blown ( which it was ) replace primary and secondary switch and monitor switch. Switch assemble removes as a unit. Wires where hard to remove, you have to push on a release located on one side and pull to remove. Works great , only one switch was bad, but I did what the guide said. Draw a picture of wiring with color code so you do not mix up.