JVM1790B General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Very easy to replace. This replacement part is the perfect fit for my microwave since the original part has been discontinued. It does have the night light and bright light feature.

Check with Digital meter all connections.Find a Thermostat open loop.This thermostat is near the Megatron .

Required removing the old unit and disconnecting the exhaust ductwork and drilling new holes for attachment to the cabinet

scape melted plastic off of oven wall. apply pliers to melted plastic, pinch plastic, and turn one quarter turn and remove. grab new rack holder with pliers, insert into hole and twist one-quarter turn

removed screw that holds glass for light and replaced bulb.
Reinserted screw that holds glass.

Only down side was cost to ship small bulb.

Removed unit from above range. (A two person task.) Removed display panel, disconnecting wires from plugins. Removed outer cover to access magnetron. Used camera to take photos before disconnecting other wires. Replaced magnetron and reconnected wires, double checking with photo. Tested prior to reinstalling. It works fine.

DISCONNECT THE POWER CORD and discharge the capacitor
Leave unplugged overnight
Remove vent grille by removing the 2 philips screws
Remove the LED panel by removing 1 phillips screw
Disconnect all connectors that plug into back of the LED board completely
Remove the wires from the switches (3) at the inside edge of the microwave door
Gently remove each switch housing and test all three switches for continuity
Carefully replace non-functioning switches and reassemble the panel
GOOD LUCK

I was preheating this oven when it suddenly shut down and had no power. After checking breakers and finding that there was power to the outlet, I purchased a ceramic fuse and replaced that. It didn't help. Then I ordered part #PS2339856 THERMOSTAT(PLATE) and we replaced that (the old one tested bad), but the oven still would not power on. Those were the quick and easy potential fixes that only involved removing a couple of front panels.

My husband is a retired electrician, so I trusted him to work on this. After doing quite a bit of research, we learned that there is yet another thermostat deep in the bowels of the machine that apparently prevents the oven from overheating. That seemed to fit the situation, because the oven was very hot when it shut down.

We took the oven down (mounted over the range and very heavy!) and opened it up. Using PartSelect's very helpful diagrams (In this case "Interior Parts 2") we located and removed the part labeled "27," which is #PS1016683 THERMOSTAT. The old one tested bad, so I ordered a new one.

Lo and behold, it worked! This is a very expensive oven -- in the range of $600 -- so I'm very pleased that this $20 part and several hours of research and work were able to repair it.

Remove the ice bin.
Turn the ice maker selection to "OFF"
Use small flat blade screwdriver to open the plastic ears on the electic plug in connectiion
Use #2 Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw on the front left side of the ice maker
Pull the ice maker forward until free of the two studs in the left side rear of the freezer wall
Check to see if the supplied water chute is the correct size for your application, if not remove the water chute from the old ice maker and place it on the new one.
Place the new ice maker in the freezer connecting the slots on the left read with the studs on the left wall
NOTE; IF THE ICE MAKER DOES NOT APPEAR TO BE LEVEL HORIZONTALLY REMOVE IT AND CAREFULLY REINSTALL IT TO ACHIEVE LEVEL
NOTE: ENSURE THE WATER DELIVERY TUBE RESTS IN THE RECEIVER TRAY
Reconnect the electrical plug ( needle nose pliers may be helpful in aligning the male plug with the female plug)
Move the selector from "OFF" to "ON"
Replace the ice bin and close the freezer door

My oven is installed above the counter making it a bit difficult to reach the screws closest to the wall. Instructions should note that both harnesses need to be disconnected and that there are two screws, not one holding the motor. This one issue made it frustrating since that screw is located towards the back away from your vision. This is when the flash light and a bit of contortions were required.

Removed the light cover screw with a Phillips screwdriver. Removed the lamps from the packaging just enough to free up the 2 prongs for fitting in the socket. Make sure the power is in the "off position". Install the bulbs one at a time by lining up the 2 sockets (Very important not to touch the halogen bulb glass surface while installing them). Energize the light switch to check operation of the new bulbs.

Using a phillips screwdriver I opened the panel in which the two lamps are located and easily removed the lamps. I ordered them through the internet and was pleasantly surprised when I received them the next day.

Had to use a screw driver to remove the cover to replace the bulb. Worked great and your service was great. Probably didn't take more than 5 minutes.

Remove upper grill, then control panel, then 2 screws hold door switch mounting bracket, that will let you roll the switches out to work on them. Remove each switch by carefully pushing back retainer clips. Diode a long pair of needlenose pliers is helpful. The control board in front of capacitor comes out with a flat screwdriver and pry up. Removing grnd wires helps

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.