JVM2071WH001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Rec'd the parts within a day or two after ordering and simply placed them where the old ones were removed and wala my stove is back filtering. Only problem, the oven won't ignite while the broiler and stove top burners are fine. Go figure.

slipped them into place by hand

We put the new glass lens in the metal frame and screwed the frame in under the microwave. Easy, breezy! Like new condition!

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.

Just pull down on "O" ring tab and filter will release. Install new filter in same position. you may have to pull on "O" ring to complete fit.

It was great...Thank you for having the part available...

replaced the glass

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

R/R worn turntable coupler.

Remove old film by peeling away from glass. Lift from corner and pull to remove. Remove backing from new film slowly as you are applying to the door a little at a time. Smooth with a plastic spatular as you apply from one side of the door to the other and you will have no wrinkles or air pockets.

Turn off main power bracker. Removed fan vent, removed control panel, disconnect leads to the three monitor switches. Replaced the secondary switch (top). Reversed procedures.

At first I thought it was just the bulb, but I wasn't able to find a video of the exact model. The dificult part was figuring out how the vent housing came off (turns out it slid to the left then lifted out) but after I figured that out, replacing the cable assembly and the bulb was really easy.

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.