EMO3000HSS02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Pulled micro off the wall, took side/top cover off to get at the cooling fan behind the control panel. Unplugged wires and removed control panel to ease the removal of the cooling fan. Two screws hold the fan. Pretty easy job.

Turntable coupler broke due to plastic wrap getting tangled, top part came out easy, other piece that broke did not come out so easy. Placed used stocking over shop vac end and vacuumed out broken piece, replaced with new coupler. Done.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

I initally thought the problem was the turn table motor but after installing that motor & not being successful I realized the problem was the stirrer motor.Removing & insalling that motor was a bit more challenging but worth the effort as I saved either the cost of a repair technician or the puchase of a new one.The microwave is back in service & running fine.

I was very happy with the ease of finding the product I needed, the time it took to arrive and the fact that I received the right part. The replacement process was easy and only took about a minute.

I looked up the parts of the microwave on Part Select to see if there might be something I might be able to do myself. I found that the Cooking Tray drive motor was the problem. I ordered the part and got it the very next day. I loosened the 6 screws to the lower part of the microwave and then the two screws that held the part in place. I removed the element and pulled the wire plug from the element, placed the new element back in with the screws, repluged the wire, placed the lower cover back to the microwave, tested the microwave out and, is still working quietly as if it were new. Thanks to part select.com it was easy.

After finding the part on PartSelect, ordering it online, receiving it quicker than expected -- it took me 5 minutes to unscrew the bottom cover of the microwave, take off the old motor, replace with the new motor, screw the cover back on and test the WORKING cooking tray drive motor.
Very impressed with the efficiency of PartSelect. It's web page was easy to navigate. Thanks.

Found this site, was able to identify the specific part through the internal search engine, very user friendly.

Read what others had said about similar repair. Now with confidence, removed screws, got easy access to the motor, removed motor, installed new motor, re-installed bottom cover, done!

If you have electric burner or gas stove, I suggest laying down a towel or similar cloth. In the event you drop a screw, you done want it bouncing off the stove surface, or down into the burner dishes.

Great site, great resource, super fast shipping.

i removed the front panel by removing the two screws on the top fan shroud then remove the shroud. then i removed the one screw over the main control panel and slid it down to unlatch it from the unit itself. i then removed the ground wire thus allowing you to remove the panel enough to unplug the wires. there are 4 sets of plugs and a ribbon strip to remove. i removed the 3 screws holding the board and installed the new board.i replaced the screws,the ribbon strip, and the plugs. i then installed the ground and repositioned the main panel onto the unit and reinstalled the screws to the board and the fan shroud. i plugged the unit in. programmed the dash and away we went.. no problems thus far. i have noticed on the old board some components that have got hot and rusted due to excess moisture from forgetting to use the exhaust fan when cooking,boiling ect.. thus causing the board to malfunction. i hope this has been semi helpful..

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

Had trouble isolating the problem, so I had a repairman identify the problem, then I ordered the part and replaced it myself.

Removed screws holding the grill in place. Removed air filter, removed screw holding plate under the filter in place. Reached in under fan cowling to find the thermostat cut-out. Disconnected the two wires. Put the new thermostat in place. Replaced screws plates and filter in reverse order.

I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.

The hard part was trying to figure out how to get to the light socket. It is a bulb in the floor of the microwave that lights the stove top. I found help at your website by typing in the model number to find the diagram of the parts list which showed how each part fit together (and thus how they came apart). So I could see how to take the bottom off the microwebb and get to the wiring for the bulb and the bulb socket as well. They both had to be replaced with parts ordered from PartSelect along with the wiring. Putting in the new was just a reverse opposition. I saved $200 for a repairman, by spending about $60.00 for parts. Our other choice was a new microwave - and a repairman to install.

Took cover off, noted the two side by side switches easily visible and we hought one of these was responsible. Then son noted a third switch at the top of the plastic assembly which inserts at an odd angle. When it was inspected signs of a previous short showed up with burnt contact points. Reinserted at same odd angle as there were guide holes, closed things up and oven worked 100%. Great prompt service and great website!! We will use you again