JE2160S General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I felt proud of myself for just taking time to get serial # ,call verify on serial # to match picture on internet.,which #did not match part, so I question, a re check ;thank goodness I did as the part would have been to large, so glad I ask question before mailing.

We removed the glass circular plate of the microwave. We replaced the original roller guide with the new part. Then we placed the glass plate back in its place. Quick and simple.

My wife tried cooking popcorn without the rotating glass plate in the microwave. The door of the microwave required no tools to remove. The front plexiglass and the stainless steel trim simply snap off as a unit. Then the plexiglass slides out. Reverse to reassemble.

On the bottom of Microwave I cut the 6 clips holding the cover in place with side cutters. Removed the one screw holding motor in place. Un plugged it. Plugged in new motor, replaced screw. Filed off sharp points of clips. Slid cover tabs into slots, put screw in cover. Replaced parts inside oven, turned it on, it worked.
I did this twice. The first time the plug fell inside the housing and I had to turn the microwave over to fish it out. So when I received new part I left it plugged in. I should make it clear I am talking about the plug to the motor not the one to the microwave. Of course I unplugged that before I even moved the microwave. Thanks to another customer and his repair story because I was dreading the chore of dismantling the entire microwave to get to the turn table motor. He made it so easy. Thank you for having the part and great instructions.

My brand new never used microwave had the plexiglass all fogged up by no good cleaners using harsh abbrasives. The repair was quite simple but took a few minutes to figure out. You open the door and look at the end of the door. You can see the plexiglass screen edge. Slide a knife under the edge and work it up and down releasing the two face tape that holds it in place. Then using the knife to gently hold the plexiglass off of the tape simply slide it out the end. Put some two face tape on the new plexiglass in the same location, slide it in (bowing out the plexiglass while you slide the last little bit where the tape is) and once all the way in, press down to engage the tape. That is it.

I placed the new hot plate in the old microwave. It worked perfectly, and no tools needed

removed 3 screws from back took cover off pulled out socket pulled off terminal replaced bulb then reverse order back together. all while unplugged.

Went on line and saw the Video - very simple to follow - very easy to remove and install the new switch -- went like a breeze!

Fast & easy. I was able to determine that this foot would work from the descriptions on online!! Thanks

Removed old roller assembly and installed new roller assembly.

Take the four saftey torx screws off the back of microwave that hold the side panels on. There are no screws in the front. Just pick up the side panels a little and slide towards the back of microwave and it will come off. The magnetron is visible behind control panel. Unplug the magetron, take a 3/8 nut driver , remove the one bolt that holds it on , remove and replace with the new one. Plug the wire (it will only go one way) back up and replace cover.

Went well, very easy to change once the microwave was out of the wall. Sounds better than when it was new.

Our microwave oven stopped working one day when the door was closed. The clock stopped showing, the light didn't come on when the door was opened, and the microwave couldn't be started. It acted as if it lost power. So, we did the usual things such as check the plug and the circuit; these were fine. I then removed the cover (need special bits called "Security Bits" which you can buy from Home Depot for $8.00). After removing the cover, be sure to discharge the capacitor (do a Google search to learn how to do this; fortunately, this microwave has a resistive circuit to ground to discharge the capacitor after about 30 minutes of being unplugged). After I discharged the capacitor, I checked the fuse and it was blown. So, I went to the store to buy a new fuse. When I replaced the fuse, and plugged the unit back into an outlet, the circuit blew as soon as I opened the door. This made me realize the faulty components were the "interlock" switches. These are relays (an electric switch) that cause the microwave to shut off when the door is opened and the inside lamp to illuminate when the door is opened. There are two "primary" switches and a "monitor" switch. I checked both primary switches for continuity (do a google switch for "checking interlock switch"). The one interlock switch was bad, meaning, it wasn't opening when it was suppose to. I ordered a replacement and also replaced the Monitor switch too (not sure why, I guess because it was only $6 to buy). After replacing the bad primary interlock switch, I put it all back together and we're working now!

First remove tamper proof screws with vise - grips. Unplug capacitor ground out one side to discharge. Trouble shooting guide in a envelope in microwave, read it and did what it said. If 20 amp fuse is blown ( which it was ) replace primary and secondary switch and monitor switch. Switch assemble removes as a unit. Wires where hard to remove, you have to push on a release located on one side and pull to remove. Works great , only one switch was bad, but I did what the guide said. Draw a picture of wiring with color code so you do not mix up.

Understand the type of fasteners GE used in the appliance require a BRISTOL type screwdrive.....unfortunatley this tool is not a part of my tool chest.....after running my four letter vocabulary and the use of thin blade screwdrive a a small vise grip plier was able to get the little bugers out.....thank goodness there was only four.