JVM1630CJ03 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Part just snapped into place and wires were reattached.

Unscrewed the control panel (2 screws), lift up and let hang, with a plan screwdriver open bracket holding the switch, unplug 2 wires, replace with new switch, plug in the 2 wires, push switch back into bracket. Then slide on the control panel, put the 2 screws back. Easy fix.

First I had to accept the fact that the unit was designed to keep non-professional people from doing any repairs. The switch was installed in such a manner that I had to break the mounting to remove the switch, then drill a hole in the mounting to secure the new switch in place.

Disassembly control panel and remove switch holder; test for micro switches for continuity. Holder had broken post on micro switch holder.

remov cover to check voltage and found problem at the interlock switch ohm the switch and found it was open replace both switches it work fine now

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The first holder locker was shipped in a soft envelope and was damaged in shipping. I ordered a second holder locker with instructions to ship in a hard container and mentioned what happened to the first holder locker. The second holder locker was shipped also in a soft envelope and was received damaged.

I notified customer service and have yet to receive a response.

I now have the part on order with a local company.
Kenneth Files
(831) 688-0740

With this model, you must remove the outer covering. Don't try to access the display unit from the front like I've seen in some other GE microwave videos. After removing the outer covering, the switches are easy to replace. They are very visible and easy to get to without taking any other parts off. You will see the door switches just behind the display board. Remove the switch and then remove the connecting wires to ensure you don't inadvertently brake a wire. You will need a tamper resistant star bit to remove 3 or 4 screws from the back panel. All other screws are philips head. I went ahead and replaced both switches (yes...there are two of them) and works like a charm. I saved an $800 microwave for less than $60 and know what to do if it happens again. Appears to be a common problem on this model. Thanks for others making a post...It saved me time and money reading others remarks. Good luck!

The hardest part was removing/reinstalling the microwave from under the kitchen cabinets, but once that was accomplished the repair went very easy. The motor/fan assy was easily accessed once the microwave outer cabinet was removed and the part was even better than the original, with a stop on the motor shaft to insure proper reinstalling of the fan blade.

I went for the cheap things first. Ohmmeter showed one of the thermostats in the magnetron compartment was open. I ordered and replaced all three thermostats. Still no heat. I took the unit off the wall (aaarrgh!) and checked the oven cavity thermal cutout. It said 7 ohms. I tested by shorting the wires together, but still no heat. So, I ordered the magnetron and diode cable. When replacing the diode cable (be sure to discharge the big cap!) either I broke it, or it was already damaged. It came off in two pieces. The new diode cable was re-enforced with thick heat shrink tubing, to prevent such breaking. You need a very short screwdriver to replace the magnetron. Now, all fixed! ~$150. A new one lists for $2000, installed in the overhead. My wife thinks I am a genius.

mtg plate came and the rest was easy,did wiring in upper cabinet 4 microwave,drilled 1 1/8 hole in btm of cab 4 power cord 2 go thru.All this was done by common sence and a tape measure,no templates were with this unit (YARD SALE)GE1600,3 bolt holes 2 hold micro upafter installing on back plate,plugged it in and it worked! end of story.

. The part arrived in acouple of days and the repair to minutes. Good work Jim.

Replaced the fuse. Result; did not fix the problem.

Replace the fuses

01. Remove vent cover above door and lift door out of the two hinge pin holes.
02. Lay door face down on towel and insert putty knife between choke cover and frame. Pry gently inward (towards center of door), working all the way around choke cover until it pops out.
03. Remove screws securing door handle to frame and remove door handle.
04. Disconnect main door assembly from frame by gently prying (outward, using putty knife if needed) all clips securing main door assembly to frame.
05. Remove outer glass from frame.
06. Analyze new frame for excess plastic trim (leftover from molding process), especially under and around all slots that will hold outer glass, and remove excess trim with utility knife.
07. Slide outer glass under slots at the top of the frame first. Push glass under slots as far as you can by hand.
08. This is the most difficult step: gently pry (outward, using your fingers) the tabs on the slots at the bottom of the frame until glass slips under these slots. Take your time and work back and forth, slot by slot.
09. Slide glass (using your fingers) under the slots on the right side of the frame. There are also two smaller slots on the left side of the frame (one at the top and one at the bottom). Make sure glass is seated under these slots as well.
10. Turn frame over and check that outer glass is seated against frame (no significant gaps between glass and frame) all the way around.
11. Insert main door assembly into frame and push down (using your fingers) all the way around main door assembly until all clips have engaged, securing main door assembly to frame.
12. Insert door handle into frame and secure door handle with screws.
13. Insert choke cover into frame and push down (using your fingers) all the way around until choke cover is secured in frame.
14. The top of the frame may look bowed upward in the center, indicating that the outer glass may need to be better seated in the frame. To eliminate any bow at the top, place door on its bottom on a carpeted floor and have someone hold door. Place towel on door, place wood block on towel, and gently tap wood block with rubber mallet until bow was been eliminated.
15. The bottom of the frame may look bowed downward in the center, indicating that the outer glass may need to be better seated in the frame. To eliminate any bow at the bottom, place door on its top on a carpeted floor and have someone hold door. Place towel on door, place wood block on towel, and gently tap wood block with rubber mallet until bow was been eliminated.
16. Align the two hinge pins with the two hinge pin holes on the microwave and put door back on.
17. Install vent cover above door.
18. Microwave some popcorn, grab your beverage of choice, and bask in the savings and satisfaction of doing it yourself! I hope this helped.