JVM250WLC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Used a Philips screw driver and removed the broken handle.Installed new handle using existing screws.

My son=law did repair because I am elderly and it was necesary to remove the bottom plate of the microwave which I was unable to do. The microwave was installed in 1987 and I believe this was the first time to replace the bulbs. When my son removed them the bulb was diintergrated. That's how old they were. Once he was able to remove the underneath plate the repair was easy except for removing the old bulbs. I think that I could have done it myself but he was available and I am sure it was done much better. All in all the parts)bulbs) were correct and everything is workiin fine. This is a good place to order replacement parts. In fact I am going to order a new charcoal filter. He took the label off the old one and I am ordering the replacement. After all 1987 may have been a good year, but time for a new one. Mary

With many thanks to those who posted their experience and advice replacing the bulb, I was able to remove 5 of the 6 screws holding the underside panel and remove the socket which contained the broken off base of the bulb and extract it with needle-nose pliers. I had broken off the glass portion of the bulb trying to unscrew it due to the awkward contortion of my wrist-hand-fingers trying to grip the bulb inside the tight recess the bulb is mounted in. After concluding that I needed more information, I did a web search for 'Hotpoint RVM1435' and found helpful advice at partselect.com telling me to drop the bottom panel. Good call! Thanks everyone!

Still did not receive any screws with new handle therefore cannot install new handle.

Since the job required replacing both the bulbs and sockets the unit was dropped from the wall. Used a towel and plywood to protect the range under the unit. Then these steps: Unplugged the power cable and placed a support board under the unit while removing three bolts from overhead cabinet. Next, removed support board and with a helper rotated the unit down and lifted it out of the rear wall mounting panel. Then turned the unit upside down, removed the bottom plate and unplugged the feed wires and two wires to each of the sockets. Next the single screws holding the sockets were removed and the sockets extracted from the mounting shells and new units were installed. When remounting the unit it was necessary to start all three bolts from the upper cabinet just a few turns and then tighten the center bolt completely first.

Removed the two screws and old handle. Replace
new handle easily. Great service on receiving part.

removed the lens cover with one screw and replaced bulb

Removed old handle, screwed on new handle.

This support hook was a bit different and we hope it will not melt when it is on bake cycle. Had to put the hook in place

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

used the part I requested and a few extra bolts...job well done!

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

every thing is working, but no hot

First, unplug microwave. Unscrew two screws at top of microwave, slide grill cover left and remove. This allows access to single screw holding control panel. Remove this screw and lift up control panel to remove. Secondary door switch is black switch at lowest position. The switch is held in place by a lever in back and very hard to get to. Remove the wires plugged into the switch, then remove two screws holding the plastic switch mount that holds all three switches. These screws use a "star" type screwdriver. Once the plastic mount is free, lift it up, right, and tip it slightly to find the lever that will release the black secondary door switch (the lowest switch)...release the broken switch, snap the new switch in its place. Replace the plastic mount by lifting and replacing back into position and replace the two "star" screws. Now, replace the wires onto the new switch, and test operation. Replace control panel, and top grill. It goes faster than it writes...getting the old switch out through that difficult to reach lever was the hardest part...still less than thirty minutes.

Because the microwave is old and the bulbs, I believe, had never been changed I carefully tried to unscrew the bulb. However, when I went to unscrew the bulbs the end of the bulb broke off and remained in the socket. I used a few different tools then remembered that sometimes a raw potatoe can be used to unscrew the remainder of the bulb, but to no avail. Finally had to unscrew the whole underside of the microwave to remove the broken bulb. May I suggest that you have the socket face away from the wall to screw in the bulb instead of the socket pointing toward the wall. You need to know yoga just to manuver the bulb into the socket.