JVM1340BWC02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed both sockets from the microwave and when your part arrived, I installed them both including the new lights. The work perfectly and it was very easy to put them in. I also appreciate the speed of delivery and your concern for my feed back on the product. I have you number in my contact list and should I need another part, I'll check with your first.
thanks you

Removed control panel first then removed bracket holding door switches 8 screws total very easy fix ????

first i remove the screw, then removed the lens assembly (really a frame) bent the feet out of the way, slid the old lens out and the new one in, bent the feet back in place and inserted the assembly into place replaced screw. the killer is a day later it was broken again, think the lens can't handle the heat from the oven below or the lights above. you guys where great fast and exact match part but the ge design is flawed

Took the screw out of the glass door holder, bent the clips up and removed the broken glass. While this was open chenged the light bulbs as well. Put new glass in bent the holding clips down and closed the doors and installed the screws again. So nice to have good light again and also new glass in them. Never noticed they were broken before.

BY THE WAY PARTS SELECT IS VERY PROMPT AND I RECEIVED MY PARTS IN ONE DAY AFTER THEY SHIPPED. SHIPPED ON MONDAY GOT THEM TUESDAY, thanks parts select for your promtness and speedy work for shipment.

After researching on line and watching installation videos, ordered all three switches and installed. Disassembly of microwave was simple, removing the bracket holding the switches was a little tricky, it sits behind a metal post and you have to angle and wiggle it out. One note of caution when replacing all three switches, be sure to install correct switch in correct location. Had two of one style switch and one of a second style, and put one in wrong place, causing microwave to power up again when door was opened. After thinking it through and doing a second disassembly, and double checking installation instructions, corrected problem and microwave now works fine.

Remove screws holding bottom cover. Cover then swings down allowing access to the receptacles. Receptacles have a single screw attaching them to the appliance with a simple electrical plug supplying power. Very easy.

Lower base of the microwave, about 6 screws,
replaced broken light bulb socket,then re-installed.
Installed new light bulb.

Must remove 5 screws in bottom of Microwave, which is hinged to the unit. Then simply remove the old lamp holders, and replace with replacements. Uses only a single screw for each lamp.

First I removed the screws that were underneath the microwave. Once I did that I disconnected the wires to the bulbs and removed the screws that were attached to the holder lamp. replaced the parts and reversed the process. It went really smooth.

This is sometimes described in other repair notes as "microwave 'runs' when door is open."
With power disconnected: Remove the microwave's metal grill surround. Three lower screws accessible with lower oven door open. Two screws accessible at top of microwave door opening with door open.
Remove microwave control panel: Remove two femaleTorx head screws (#27?) that secure the panel, accessible at right side of door opening. The right side of the control panel is secured by plastic tabs fitting into slots in the oven frame. Take good care to note how these tabs disengage from the slots (lift and shift). Tab breakage very possible! Once disengaged, the panel hinges outward and downward and is self-supported. It may be necessary to guide some of the wiring out of the way to fully lower.
There are three door switches, one "monitor" and two "secondary" switches. All switches are housed in a plastic frame, which must be lifted out of position for access, each switch is retained by flexible plastic, breakable-looking hooked fingers. Also note that the electrical connectors have tiny release tabs that must be depressed in order to pull them off of the switches. In my case the topmost switch, one of the "secondary" switches, was clearly bad since there was no "snap" or click when pressing the switch's button. Maybe you can determine which switch is bad before proceeding but I had ordered all three to avoid going through this exercise again any time soon.
Replace switch or switches, place switch carrier back into position and otherwise reverse the disassembly steps.

The replacement of the light no problem, the reason the light broke; problem. The original was glued in (for transport i think) and simply trying to unscrew it out (in a very tight slot) it broke; be careful or you’ll be buying a new $20 bulb (with shipping and handling).

I ran into the same problem everyone does when doing this job. I found and removed the top screw from the back of the door but could not see the bottom screw so was unsure how to remove old broken plastic piece from lower handle attachment point and reinstall new. I went back to the website and found the comments from others re how to do this and from there it was a 2 minute job. The only thing I would add is a caution: When removing the wide black plastic flange from inside the door (to access the bottom screw) pry it out carefully all around. If you pry open only at the handle end and start pulling away there is a risk of snapping the flange

Un screwed the cover but when i tried to remove the bulb it was broken at the base. I disconnected the power and used neddle nosed pliers to remove the base

First I remove d the top screw which can be seen when the door is open. Next I gently pried the plastic rim away from the inside of the door which uncovered the bottom screw.
Placed the new handle in position and reversed the removal process, carefully tightening the screw, being careful to not overtighten. Snapped the plastic rim back into place and the job was done.
The whole repair took less than 5 minutes! I saved big bucks by doing it myself and it is not difficult as long as you can operate a screwdriver!

Using the exploded parts view I removed three Philips screws from the lower plate (the screws are located on the front edge of the panel that holds the air filters). Slide the lower panel forward slightly and allow it to swing down. Remove the amphenol connector to the motor and hood lights by pressing the sides of the plastic clip and place the lower panel to one side out of the way. f you intend to clean the lower panel in a dishwasher remove all electrical components before doing so (bend back the clips holding the wires in place and remove the lamps, remove the Philips screws holding the lamp holders); note: these are the only screws with a short shoulder on them, make sure they go back in the same place to hold the lamp holder to prevent damage to the holder). Remove the Philips screw holding the turn table motor in place. Slide the entire motor assembly to one side to allow the motor shaft to slide off the coupler. With the oven door open, remove the old coupling by sliding it to one side to clear the retainer. Insert the new coupling and replace the motor making sure you align the motor shaft with the flat side of the coupling. If you have cleaned the lower assembly in the dishwasher or by hand make sure all parts are dry before reassembly (reinstall the lamp holders and the wiring assembly. Reconnect the amphenol connector (it can only plug in one way by nature of design). Slide the back of the lower assembly into the channel at the back of the oven and replace the three screws holding the lower panel in place.
Now you have saved your self the cost of a service call or possibly a new microwave you can use this as supporting evidence that you can afford the new 20" monitor for your PC. Test out the repair and make your spouse a cup of hot coffee or cocoa to brag on yourself and make your sales pitch.