JVM1190WYC02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

unscrewed cover, took old bulb out, screwed new bulb in.relaced cover.

Microwave would not turn on. Lights and fan worked fine. Before the microwave stopped completely, it would turn the microware fan on even when door was open. I read the reviews and they were exactly the same issue that others were facing. Once I opened the front panel and got to the switches it was easy to figure out which switch was bad as it was the one that was soft (When clicking it). It was hard to take it out though (it seemed stuck). So, I used a plier to yank it out. I put in the new switch and everything worked just great! I would like to thank other comments that were left on the site to make my task much easier. Thank you (to the commenters on PartsSelect), you not only saved me money, but also ensured that I learn about the microwave more and give me the confidence that I could fix it.

Removed upper face plate and fan cover with small cross point screw driver. Attached 24 inches of cord string loop to the driver end of the belt, lifted the belt off of the pulley, removed the belt from the fan, pulled the belt and cord string out. Attached the new belt to the cord and reversed the drill. Replaced the covers. It took me longer to write this note than it did to replace the belt.

Took screw holding lens cover out, dropped cover down, unscrewed old bulb, screwed new bulb in socket. Screwed cover back in place. This is the third bulb in this socket, the other bulb is original.

Easy as can be. Removed one screw on the glass cover, removed two burned out bulbs and reinstalled two new bulbs, reinstalled the cover and all is well now. The best part - my 'supervisor' is happy that she can see to cook again!

simply unscrewed protective lens cover, and swapped bulbs--these bulbs are great--last for years

Watched How to repair a Microwave that turns on when the door is opened Video on the web. From this took a shot at the switch was the problem. When I removed the switch it was defective. The small button was in and when you turned the switch upside down the button would drop back into position. Ordered a switch for $25.oo , installed it and the microwave is working fine.

Loosen the two long anchor bolts that screw into the top of the microwave cabinet. These are usually in a shelf or cabinet directly above the microwave. Tilt the microwave forward enough to remove the 2 Phillips head screws from the top of the microwave cabinet. They are near the front. When these two screws are out, remove the fan vent. Once the fan vent is off, remove one screw that holds the control pad in place. Let it hang down. Just to the left of the control pad, you will see wires leading to three switches that close when the door is closed. Use a torx driver to remove the two screws that hold the switch bracket in place. With the bracket out, unplug the wire harnesses. On the opposite side of the wiring connected, a tab holds each switch in place. Lift the tab and slide the switches out. Usually, the bad switch will be identified by a loose or broken spring. Test them by pressing down on the switch. If you notice the bad switch spring, this is usually the bad one. When you have the new one, simply push it back into the appropriate slot and be sure that the holding tab snaps back in place. Plug the wires back in and re-attach the bracket. Put the control pad back on, then the fan vent. When down with those, push on the bottom of the microwave to lift it back into place and tighten the two anchor bolts in the top.

My son had to replace the bulbs because the screw that holds the bulb shield was so tight that I couldn't remove it. It was too difficult for me to do it myself.

It was a snap using the instructions given. The key is getting into the unit. I did have to use a multimeter to find the failed switch since there are two of that type.

Remove light cover. Replace bulbs Note. Light bulbs are 40W,Too much heat for bulbs & sockets

I removed light bulb cover shield,took out defective bulbs and replaced with new ones. 5minute repair

I took instant pictures at each step to make sure I put the wires back correctly. Removed the front panel. Discharged the capacitor with a voltage meter. Removed parts in front of the magnetron. Removed and replaced the magnetron. Reassembled. Works find now. Small hands, a flashlight and a magnet (for dropped screws) would help. I did not need the pictures.