JVM1350BWC02 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I've been fixing and taking things apart since I was a kid. I hoped that it was a bad switch in the door. Got out my test meter and check the 3 different switches. All 3 tested good, but one was a bit hit and miss. It would work if the microwave was on its side and wouldn't when it was set flat. I found the switch online and installed it. Took care of the problem.It was a whole lot cheaper than buying a new microwave. Thanks! Bill Brown, Fridley, MN

I ended up breaking one bulb trying to remove a burnt bulb for replacement. We then tried removing the other bulb and it wouldn't come out either. I googled the problem and found PartSelect and an explaination of the problem. Heat from either the stove or the bulbs had fused the bulbs into the sockets. Comments on the problem explained that you just remove the bottome pannel (we had seven screws), unplug the old sockets, insert the new and new bulbs and reattach the panel. It was quick and no problems to correct. We did discover the microwave was on its own breaker, make sure to disconnect or cutoff power to the microwave before you start.

This was a super easy repair job. I couldn't figure out how the lens that covered the light bulb would have cracked and realized it must have been from my contractor when he replaced my stove. I can't prove it, of course, so I am left doing the repairs. The website was very easy to order from and confirm that I had the correct parts as the model numbers tend to change over time.

Loosen screw holding glass cover plate in place over bulb. Glass cover plate will swing down. Unscrew bad bulb, replace with good bulb, reset glass cover and tighten screw.

First, I removed the screws that hold the handle to the door, and then removed the handle. Then, I used a small flathead screwdriver to pry the door apart. Then I slid out the front glass panel, and exposed the side of the door. The replacement piece was easy to install, it is just held in with two pins and a spring.

Upon taking the faceplate off (unplugged power source first) I found one of the wires going to the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP was completely burned away. I cut back the wire and spliced a new section with heat shrink connectors and I replaced the THERMO SW-TCO SENSE TEMP. I plugged the power back in and it works great.

The switches are not the problem! The problem is in the tolerences of the latch housing. I have ordered two new housings (Upper & Lower) and will see if the tolerences are closer. If not I will try epoxying a shim to the plate that operates the microswitches. The other option is to file the mounting slots of the housing to allow adjustment, which would be iffy,keeping them from moving with use. The exploded drawings really need to be clarified. The scale is way too small. It was extremely difficult to pick out the individual parts of the mechanisiam.

All electrical worked (fan, lights, control panel) door switch was broke. Pulled the oven out. Took out two big screws from the cabinet above. (be careful not to drop oven)Set the oven on kitchen counter. Took off five screws that held the vent cover. Removed vent cover. Took out one screw that held the control panel. Lifted, turned and slid the panel into the space below so I could get to the upper door switch. Replace door switch and re-assemble.

Put radioactive nuke suit on. Unplug microwave, used philips screw driver and took glass plate from the bulb cover, unscrew burnt bulb and replace with new bulb. Put cover back over replacement bulb, insert screw and tighten. Then used philips screw driver to take two screws that held the front control panel in place, then it folded down, then checked 20 amp fuse, it was burnt, replaced it with a new one. Folded control panel, inserted two small philip head screws back into control panel. Then plugged microwave back in, set the clock, tested it with cup water. Worked like a brand new one. Take off radioactive nuke suit. Just kidding about the radioactive nuke suit.

I was very happy with the ease of finding the product I needed, the time it took to arrive and the fact that I received the right part. The replacement process was easy and only took about a minute.

took of cover removed switch and replaced with new one

Rather than open access door took off bottom (5 screws) This gave more room as the microwave is mounted under the wall cabinets over the stove.

I unscrewed the entire undersurface of the microwave (I didn't do this before!) and replaced the light socket. Easy job and I'm glad the part was still available.

Original coupler was melted on shaft. I couldn't pull off with pliers, so I removed bottom panel, pulled out motor and the pieces of coupler just fell out. I put on the new one - replaced screws and hurray......

I was told by 2 different appliance technicians that the crumbled/melted light socket could not be replaced which meant replacing the entire microwave (expensive!). Other posters on your sight described the repair steps and I gave it a try. The hardest part was probably figuring out which switch in the fuse box belonged to it (now marked clearly). It was a simple matter of unscrewing the bottom panel of the microwave to access the socket, pulling the crumbled/melted unit off and shoving the new one on. I can't believe the repairmen didn't want any part of even giving it a try.