JVM1460BAC01 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I removed the screws that held the bottom in and then dropped it down to access the motor. I removed the 2 screws that held the motor in and unplugged it. I then plugged the new one in and reattached it with the 2 screws and put the bottom back on. It took me about 5 minutes to fix it for only $40.00.

bought a replacement for it

unscrewed the screw, pried up metal tabs that hold in light lens. took out broken pieces, slid in new light lens re-secured tabs with fingers, screwed in the screw again.

Simply removed screw, pulled down light holder, unfoled the metal tabs, took out the broken pieces and replaced the glass lens and light bulb.

I turned off the breaker/electric power to the microwave; opened the base of the microwave, detached the wire to the old drive motor, removed the
screws holding the drive motor in place; removed the old drive motor and installed
the new drive motor---beyond easy!!!

Thank you!

Thanks to the person who previousley detailed how he drilled holes to access 2 hidden screws, that made my job so easy. Thank You.

I diagnosed the problem myself. I googled GE parts and was refered to you guys. I ordered the part and it took less than a 5 days to arrive. I used a phillips scewdrive to remove the cover of my microwave and removed the turning glass motor. This took less that 30min and cost less that $50.00. I figured that it would have cost me approx $125.00 to get a tech person to my home for this repair.

Thanks a lot!

Bernard

llation

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

Used chisel to remove inside cover. Unscrewed broken handle. (Didn’t expect that there was a second set of screws That were covered by metal frame of microwave. Had to cut the screw to remove. Then screwed the new handle back in. This handle only had 2 screws. Hope it holds as well as the 4 original screws. Part was kind of expensive, was not informed that there was an error in processing my shipment until I called. Then part showed up 2 days later.

Followed the video online.

I first went on you tube and typed in my brand and model number. It brought up how to take apart the door to get at the four screws. I used a butter knife to pop out the door frame. With the inner door off the first two screws came out then you can get at the other two screws. I used the same old screws to reinstall the new handle. The door handle arrived in two days via ups. The frame snaps together, very easy. Never installed a handle before. The price was right and the wife wanted this fixed, now!

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

Following the instructions from prior PartSelect folks for this part (thank you for great instructions), I removed the door from the microwave (first had to remove the fan vent grill above the door (2 Phillips screws), then I carefully removed the back plastic door frame using the thin puddy knife to carefully pop it off. Removed the first 2 screws on that are visible. Removed the inner door frame (was the most difficult part of the process to do without breaking the front panel frame) to expose the inner 2 screws. On our microwave, the front panel was also cracked, so I removed and replaced it (very simple), attached the new handle to the front panel with the inner screws (Phillips 2) and then popped the inner door back in, screwed in the last 2 screws and attached the back plastic door frame. Reattached the vent fan cover and the door. A bit more complicated than originally thought, but overall not bad. Charlie C