JVM3600BD001 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

I placed the glasstop on the sprocket

I took the part out of the box and handed it to my wife and said "here ya go hun, go put this under the glass turntable in the microwave. You'll know it's installed when you hear it click down" She yelled back, "easy as pie" - - - Humm.. I can't make a pie. Fortunately the old one was in one piece as the side just split so it slid off very easy. The new one just snapped in place.

Removed three screws from the top front cover and slide it out and following I removed the touch panel and the housing that holds the switches and replaced the bad one.

Pulled it from the wall remove the front vent covers removed the control panel remove the door switches by a special screw driver bit which looks a star remove the electrical terminals pressed the plastic clip pulled the switch replaced it with new one then followed initial steps backward

Received part installed in less than one minute, easy fix alignment of part in shaft pressing down into position

Vent assembly held in place with 3 screws( 1left side & 2 on right)located at top of unit. Opened microwave door and slip panel to left to disengage tabs at bottom. With assembly removed, transfer mounting hardware from old to new piece. Original screws would bind when replacing, so I used new sheet metal screws which worked fine. To replace, open door, slide tabs into slots to lock and screw into place at top.

I first read where someone had the same problem. Their solution was a burned-out fuse. I ordered a new fuse...installed it and that did not solve my problem. I revisted PartSelect and read how Marla (from Arlington, TX)solved her problem. I purchased a secondary switch and when it arrived, I made a copy of Marla's instructions and followed them to the letter. I installed the new secondary switch into the secondary space, put everything back together and the oven STILL DID NOT WORK. I had to take the latching panel apart again and test each switch to see if there was another bad one. I found that the third switch was burned out. So I took the new switch out of the second slot and installed it into the third slot. I tested the switches before reinstalling the latching panel. This time everything worked. So I put everything back together, reinstalled the microwave on the wall, tested it again, and everything worked perfectly.

The breaker was tripped but fuse was ok on testing. I kept the fuse for possible future repairs. To access door switches and fuse on this model JVM1850CF001, remove 2 phillips screws at top. Then slide the grill to the left (toward hinges) about 1 cm and it should easily come off forwardly. Remove phillips screw underneath grill attaching the main panel. Lift the panel 1 cm and it will easily come off forwardly - I let it hang by the electrical cords. Now you can see/discharge capacitor(s). Remove 2 star screws inside door to loosen/remove/access door switch frame. 3 switches are held in the frame by plastic tabs - one tab per switch. One is primary and 2 are secondary door switches. I removed each switch one at a time by lifting tab, pulled off the electrical connector and filed the male metal connection on each switch. I replaced the switch with a loose button (loose and didn't click as crisply compared to the other switches) with a new secondary door switch. It was the lower secondary switch. Worked like a charm after that.

-unplug
-remove top and front covers
-unplug wire connectors from heating assembly
-remove heating assembly from metal stand and push out of the way
-remove metal stand from dry
-pull out heating assembly
-install new one in reserve order

Opened the light cover. Removed the old light bulb using a light tug on the old bulb, lined up the new bulb and pushed gently into the socket.
Turned the power back on and the microwave is good to go.

removed old part and replaced

I read several customer reviews before starting the repair. Removed the old drive motor to make sure I was ordering the correct part. Removal consisted of removing the screws on the bottom plate, disconnecting the electrical plug from the motor, and removing the one screw that attached the motor to the housing. Installation of the new motor was the reverse.

Nice. Half dozen screws drops the bottom, 2 screws on the motor, pop in the new, reassemble and throw in the popcorn. (Was skeptical. Have replaced quite a few of these little motors in data centers. Common part in high-speed printers. Never saw one fail like this but your feedback convinced me otherwise.)

Removed the damaged holder by pulling it out. The new one went in with ease. This sure beat the $90 quoted to us to have a GE repair person come to the house. The part was under $7 and under $16 total for shipping. I think we were fortunate to be able to order this part on-line.

removed the screws holding the bottom panel, unscrewed the motor. Disconnected the motor. Connected new motor. Screwed in new motor. Replace panel