JNM6171DF1BB General Electric Microwave - Instructions

All one has to do is use a screw driver to remove the screws, one per lens.
Then lower the lens bracket, bend the 4 tabs holding the
lens, remove and replace the lens and screw the brackets back in place.

Less than 10 minuits.

removed the lens cover with one screw and replaced bulb

remove cover-unplug wires from secondary switch-remove switch-snap in new switch-plug in wires-replace cover-works great. very easy to do.

Removed the microwave with the buit in housing from the cabinet. Removed microwave from built in housing. Removed outer cabinet giving access to remove control panel and smart board where switches are located. Removed control panel to get to smartboard. Removed smart board after disconnecting a few wires to allow easy removal. Individually removed and then tested each switch using multimeter. Found seondary Door Switch (bottom of smart board) operation to be intermittent (switch trip button extremely loose and rattle inside this particular switch) Ordered replacement part which came very quickly on standard shipping order. Put new switch on smart board and remounted, reinstalled control panel and reconnected various wire connectors previously disconnected. Then plugged in oven and tested for opertation - didn't work at all! But, after bleeding off capacior charge by removing connectors and discharging capacitor to ground, then reassembling control board and smart board into oven, then trying agian, it has worked perfectly ever since. Do not understand why capacitor disconnect/discharge was required but suspect this reset the control electronics. Easy fix and hope to get another 12 years out of this appliance which is used multiple times every day. Also have two other identical micorwave ovens, one is 20 years old, but these get used relatively infrequently.

Opened the microwave oven door, unscrewed two screws which held the control panel on, then I removed two of the door switches (each had two screws), and then used the continuity tester to see which one was not operating. It turned out to be the secondary door switch, replaced it and to my amazement, the microwave worked. I have never repaired an appliance before but I didn't want to replace our over-the-stove built in microwave. It was the best day ever when it was working again! The hardest part was getting myself to try the repair.

As suggested, I placed a towel over the stove. Only had 3 main screws to remove from bottom of microwave. Dropped the bottom and changed the sockets and light bulbs. After replacing the bottom tray, I put the new glass light lens in. The clips on glass holder bent back like a photo frame-really easy. Turned on the lights and was done.

removed access panal, found soft switch as discribed on your web site. removed and replaced.

Took out five screws on microwave bottom, removed the two screws in the socket and unplugged the light socket. Plug in new socket, screw in place with 2 screws. Lock in microwave bottom,and screw in 5 screws. Replace bulbs. Be sure and either unplug microwave or switch off at electric service box, before starting. Of course, hubby did all the work, but I supervised.

replace socket

First, there are three door operated switches in this model. The monitor sw, the secondary sw (both of these are on the bottom in the same bracket) and the door sensing sw on top. The door sensing and secondary switches are both N.O. and have the same part number (probably why you show just two switches). The monitor sw is N.C. and it was not my problem. The secondary sw was bad on my oven but I had replaced the door sensing sw (which wasn't bad) on a previous order and kept the old one so I used it to make the repair. All three switches can be accessed without removing the oven by removing the discharge louver (remove two flat head screws on top and slide the louver to the left) then carefully remove the control panel (one screw on top and lift out). The switches are held in place by a plastic tongue that fits into the rear mounting hole on the switch. I used a common screw driver with a small tip to gently lift the tongue and slide the switch out with needle nose pliers. The new switch just snaps back in. The switch holder bracket looks like it would be easily broken so be gentle. I don't know what the symptoms would be if either of the other switches were bad so I would recommend buying all three and you would have them if one of the others failed in the future. The information I gave on the switches came from a schematic I found inside the control box. Hope this is helpful.

Removed 5 phillip screws from bottom plate of microwave oven to lower the plate and gain access to the socket. Then, removed screw(s) attaching socket to the oven. Installed socket, and secured the bottom plate of the oven with screws removed previously.

Using a #2 Phillips screwdriver and removed the screw that retains the lens frame around the broken lens. I also did the same to the opposite side (whose lens was fine but the bulb had been burned out for some time). With my fingers I pryed up the frame clips that secure the lens in place, removed the pieces of the broken lens, and replace the lens with one of the new lenses I had ordered. Although the bulb on this side was still burning, I replaced it with one of the two I ordered anyway. When I removed the bulb that was burned out, the glass separated from the bulb's base. However, I simply put on a set of tight fitting leather gloves and used my ring finger to apply pressure inside the base and it soon began to twist and then came out. This takes a little manual dexterity, but is very doable. If it were too tight, you could take a large "easy-out" tool (like the one to fit a 3/8" - 1/2" hole) and it would remove the broken base in short order. I had also ordered a second lens, but the lens on the burned side was simply dirty, so I cleaned it, put it back in place and saved the new one for a rainy day. By the way, BE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THE LIGHTS ARE SWITCHED TO THE "OFF" POSITION BEFORE DOING ANY OF THE ABOVE. Also take care to clean the glass on the bulbs with denatured alcohol and handle them with clean cloth gloves or a tissue so as not to allow any oils to be on the surface when they are switched on. Body oil will immediately create a hot spot which will shorten the life of the bulb by at least 50% if not more.

Getting the old bulb out of the socket was not an easy job as the factory seals the base of the bulb to the socket and for what reason I do not know. The seal has to be broken away to remove the bulb. I broke the seal with a knife and then proceeded to unscrew the bulb. The bulb at that point shattered in my hand and I was left with just the base of the bulb stuck in the socket. it took much effort to be able to work loose the base with a needle nose pliers and much sweat. The installation however went very smooth and Part Select did a fine job of sending me the right part in a very short period of time. They are a great source for any appliance part needed.

undid plate exposing bulbs. Bulbs were blown to the extent that I could not see the size or wattage. Went to website, got the data ... including how to find the model and serial number plate, entered the info, looked at the exploded drawing, ordered 2 new bulbs and 3 days later they showed up at our door FedEX.

Simply unscrew the bottom panel of the microwave device (it swings downward when opening - there are hinges on the back to protect it from falling down). Remove the old light socket (which is modular and is screwed in place)from the connectors and then replace it with the new light socket. That's it